Love at First Sight: The Deep Navy Swing Top

—Do you remember the first MARGARET HOWELL item you purchased?

I had left my hometown of Kumamoto and was living in an apartment in Harajuku at 18. There was a select shop called "Paper Moon" on Omotesando, where I first encountered a MARGARET HOWELL shirt. It was very expensive for me at the time, so I couldn't buy it then. But in 1978, at "BEAMS F," where Hirofumi Kurino was the store manager, I fell in love at first sight with a MARGARET HOWELL swing top. The outer fabric was deep navy, and the lining was sax blue. I think it cost around 50,000 yen. It should still be in my stock.

—What was your impression of the brand back then?

I had a strong impression of their menswear, with items like shirts and tweed suits. In Harajuku at that time, there were many stylish adults—mods, punks, reggae fans, like in the movie "Quadrophenia" (79). I used to wear my Margaret swing top and ride a pure white Vespa. Then, in 1979, I went to London for the first time. Even now, I recall it as a passionate and exciting era.

—How do you perceive London fashion today?

Looking at the menswear collections, the fashion scene is becoming dynamic and interesting. At its core are young designers, not necessarily born-and-bred British, who are finally breaking free from the shackles of past legacies like punk and creating new designs. Underlying this are the contributions of designers like Margaret, but what's truly remarkable is their drive to create something original. I feel individuality and passion.

—What are your impressions of this season's MARGARET HOWELL collection?

Looking at the runway show looks, they appear to be basic styling at first glance, but upon closer inspection, you can see exquisite arrangements. It's a kind of "casualness that doesn't scream 'Britishness.'" Because the designs lack sharp edges, the novelty lies in the "subtlety of styling."

—What do you mean by "subtlety of styling"?

They skillfully use basic items like white turtleneck knits. In particular, the layering—tucking in a shirt or knit over a turtleneck—is beautiful. For a long time, shirts were worn untucked, but tucking them in now looks more elegant. Also, the combination of a sleeveless knit with trousers is an expression unique to a female designer. Such an idea rarely comes from a male designer.

Color Sense and Styling

—You've met Margaret Howell before, haven't you?

I've visited her atelier. As she majored in fine art at university, she draws her designs using ink and then adds color. This season, while there's a lot of deep navy and black, including accent colors like khaki and orange, I feel a color sense close to "traditional Japanese colors." It's like a sketch, both dandy and alluring.

—You also handle styling for runway shows. Are there any secrets to your stage presentation?

The most important elements are socks and shoes. A menswear look is determined by how the feet appear. We actually have models walk during rehearsals, meticulously adjusting the hem of trousers and having models wear the clothes from the morning to let them settle. Margaret's runway looks have exquisite footwear, with socks peeking out perfectly from sturdy "Tricker's" derby shoes. The overall look becomes much more dynamic with this specific length and color of the socks.

—What do you recommend from this season's MARGARET HOWELL collection?

Above all, what's wonderful is how the collection incorporates British staples like "Mackintosh," "Barbour," "John Smedley," "Tricker's," and fabrics from "Fox Brothers," while the overall styling evokes a light, new breeze. I believe Margaret's creations will remain unchanged, but I want us to embrace the changes that align with the times and wear her clothes.

YOSHIYUKI SHIMAZU
Stylist and fashion director. Born in Kumamoto in 1959. Moved to Tokyo after graduating high school. Lived in France from 1981 to 1986. Traveled extensively through Europe, including London, and Africa, broadening his horizons through exposure to various cultures. Upon returning to Japan, he began his career as a stylist. Currently, he is active primarily in domestic and international editorials and advertisements, while also styling numerous talents and musicians regardless of gender. He also directs runway shows and handles creative direction for fashion magazines. Deeply knowledgeable about music, he also works as a music curator.