Crafting Shoes to Walk Through Life With

—Do you create bespoke shoes?

Yes. I can only make one pair a day, about 300 pairs a year. Therefore, I believe their value differs from ready-to-wear shoes. I use machines only for the final finishing touches, so they are almost entirely handmade. The shoe types range from classic men's styles to sporty ones.

—What is important to you when making shoes?

Above all, the pursuit of comfort. A shoe is only a shoe when it conforms to the foot, so I focus on achieving that balance with aesthetic beauty. I pay close attention to striking that balance.

—Do you have any sources of inspiration when you create?

Primarily, from the past. I draw inspiration from the styles of the 1920s to the 1940s.

—Are those the shoes your grandfather made?

Yes. I cherish the tradition that has been passed down since my grandfather started the workshop (BOTTEGA) in 1922. We have always made truly excellent products without compromising on quality, so I am confident in that. I have no interest in mass production, as it could potentially break the tradition we have built. I strive to perfect truly good things while valuing our heritage.



—I heard you started making shoes at the age of 11, Paolo.

I grew up in an environment that always smelled of leather. I was a child who ran around the workshop where my grandfather and father worked. It was at age 11 that my playground became a place for making shoes. In the Marche region, where the workshop is located, there are headquarters factories for Italy's leading shoe brands. Historically, this town made shoes from parts of military uniforms after World War II. Therefore, most people are still involved in shoemaking in some capacity.




—It's been nearly 100 years since the workshop was established. In that long history, what have you continued to protect from your grandfather's era, and conversely, what changes do you want to bring?

Continuing the tradition. However, I believe it's necessary to incorporate changes to adapt to the times. But no matter how we add a playful touch, the most important thing is the method of shoemaking. I believe the fundamental principles of how a shoe is constructed must never be altered.

—Specifically?

We are committed to using only natural materials for everything, including laces, threads, and of course, leather. They contain no unnecessary chemicals. The tanning and dyeing of the leather are also done by hand. For these wholecut dress shoes, the color is achieved by applying a dye, a mixture of Bordeaux and mustard, multiple times. We use natural glues as much as possible. For example, a glue made from chestnut flour and water. This glue gradually changes as it absorbs the foot's temperature and sweat moisture. Through this process, it naturally conforms to the shape of the wearer's foot.



—Are there any shops that carry your shoes, Paolo?

We generally do not sell wholesale. We receive many requests, but we have had to decline them due to limited production capacity. Until my visit this time, I had never sold to anyone in Japan.

—Do you have any plans to expand the workshop?

I am not interested in that. I want to preserve the tradition that my predecessors have built for the future.

—There are many shoemakers in the world. What kind of shoes do you think you are making among them?

Shoes that can be used for a lifetime. Shoes that walk with you through life. They grow with the wearer, and your life itself is reflected in the shoes. As you continue to wear them, we will repair any scratches. We also undertake reconstructions to improve upon the original state, but in that sense, I believe they are shoes that entrust a person's life to them.



Paolo Mariani
Born in the Marche region of Italy in 1979. Intrigued by the work of his shoemaker grandfather and father, he began making shoes at the age of 11. He later inherited the workshop from his father and continues to craft shoes that blend tradition with contemporary style, all by himself. Early this year, he connected with fashion director Noriaki Muramatsu via Facebook, leading to this visit to Japan. Starting from the Autumn/Winter 2015 season, his creations will be available at United Arrows and Takizawa Shigeru. In his private life, he lives a self-sufficient lifestyle, tending to vegetables and livestock.

BOTTEGA PAOLO MARIANI
http://www.bottegapaolomariani.it