Tomoki Sukezane's Dialogue: In Conversation with YOKO CHAN
FASHION / FEATURES
November 23, 2016

Tomoki Sukezane's Dialogue: In Conversation with YOKO CHAN


SUKEZANE Tomoki


“Impulse Buy!”: The third guest in our series


YOKO CHAN, who has just launched her own brand


YOKO CHAN has long worked in PR for renowned brands. Her newly launched brand, "YOKO CHAN," offers a lineup of minimalist items essential for today's women. We asked her why she started the brand and what her aspirations are.


Interview & Text by Tomoki SukezanePhoto by Takahiro Igarashi




After studying at luxury brands and mastering fashion
What did YOKO CHAN desire?


SukezaneThat's a lovely dress. Is it yours?

YOKOYes, it is! (Laughs) Thank you!

SukezaneIs that one from YOKO CHAN, too?

YOKOIt is! ...It feels a bit staged, doesn't it? What should I do? (Laughs)

SukezaneThe brand name, YOKO CHAN, doesn't have a 'G' at the end, does it? Usually, it would, wouldn't it?

YOKOThat's right. But no matter how many times I check, there's no 'G'.

SukezaneSo it wasn't a conscious decision to omit the 'G' for the brand name?

YOKOEven my relatives living overseas confirm it's 'CHAN.' I thought it might be confusing, but it's my father's official surname, and 'CHAN' seems to have better stroke counts for luck.

SukezaneThat's important.

YOKOAlso, it looks good visually.

SukezaneIt does. The typography is nice.

YOKOIt is.

SukezaneAnd this is your debut collection for YOKO CHAN, isn't it?

YOKO(Laughs)

SukezaneThe items are lovely! (Laughs)

YOKOThank you! (Laughs)

SukezaneSo, why did you decide to create your own clothing line?

YOKOWell, I had been working in PR for brands for a long time...

SukezaneGUCCI, right?

YOKOYes, I worked in PR for GUCCI for a very long time. I also handled LOEWE.

SukezaneRight, LOEWE too.

YOKOLOEWE's craftsmanship is incredible, especially the quality of their leather.

SukezaneIt really is.

YOKOAt LOEWE, I learned about the beauty of genuine mouton and leather, and at GUCCI, I experienced the cutting-edge fashion trends. However, I realized I wasn't finding clothes I truly wanted to wear, so I decided to create them myself.

SukezaneDid you only recently feel that way? Did the thought 'I can't find anything to wear' only occur to you recently?

YOKONo, it's been a long time. I've always felt that way. Of course, I wanted to own clothes from top brands, but they're so expensive, I couldn't buy many (laughs). But when you're exposed to high-quality items, you can't just wear anything... right? You also can't wear things that obviously scream 'brand name,' can you? So, what do you wear then? I found myself thinking, 'Nothing really fits.'

SukezaneLike there's no middle ground?

YOKOSo, I made them myself! (Laughs)

SukezaneThings that suit you.

YOKOYes (laughs).

SukezaneThings you want.

YOKOThey're all my size. All perfectly tailored for me!

SukezaneThat's impressive, but is that okay?

YOKOThe P-coat and trench coat, and the denim will come in two sizes! But everyone can try on these samples.

SukezaneYou think so? (Laughs)

YOKOMost people can wear them!

SukezaneOh, really? The collection has a very minimalist feel overall. Is that the concept?

YOKOYes. When I quit my PR job at Gucci, I decluttered more than half of my closet. Half of my clothes from eight years of work.

SukezaneYou threw them away? As trash?

YOKONo, I gave some away and donated others. I didn't throw them away. I couldn't.

SukezaneYou can't just throw them away.

YOKOAbsolutely not. I could never.

SukezaneMy storage unit gets full immediately, too.

YOKOExactly. But I got rid of half of mine. Then I thought about what I truly needed, and kept only what I felt was essential for living. At least, for now.

SukezaneWhat did you keep?

YOKOSimple pieces. I realized that what I truly loved were ultimately simple things.

SukezaneSo, by getting rid of clothes, you found a clearer path for what to create?

YOKOYes. In fact, I had become unsure of what I wanted myself. I liked prints, I liked flowing, feminine silhouettes... I liked everything, so when it came to deciding what to create, I had too many ideas...

SukezaneMm-hmm.

YOKOAt first, I considered making prints, or dresses, and so on, but when I thought about what I truly needed if everything else was gone, it was just this (gesturing to the collection).

SukezaneWhat came to mind first?

YOKOI definitely wanted shirts... no, first I wanted a dress.

SukezaneThe one you're wearing now? That's very cute, too.

YOKOWith one dress, you can handle anything, whether it's for travel or any occasion. Even when you don't have time to think about coordinating an outfit, a dress with a beautiful silhouette can save the day. I was determined to make dresses.

SukezaneI see. And this gray one... is the shape the same?

YOKOYes. Exactly the same.

SukezaneThe impression changes completely with the color.

YOKOCompletely.

SukezaneIt looks a bit more serious in gray.

YOKOSerious? (Laughs)




SukezaneOh, and what's this star symbol (right photo)? Is that the YOKO CHAN mark? (Laughs)

YOKOIt's the YOKO CHAN mark.

SukezaneThe YOKO CHAN mark looks like it's been applied.

YOKOThese are samples, so it's temporary... It will actually be embroidered. It will look much nicer. The star is the YOKO CHAN mark.

YOKO CHAN Collection



YOKO CHAN Collection



Sukezane(Looking at the coat) It's quite fitted, isn't it? (Left photo)

YOKOIt is fitted. I wanted a slim trench coat that could be worn as a dress.

SukezaneI see. And then, a white shirt paired with denim.

YOKOYes. These are extremely low-rise. So low that you might worry about your backside showing. When you actually try them on, about half of your backside is exposed.

SukezaneIs that intentional? (Laughs)

YOKONo! (Laughs) But isn't it cool? For a girl to wear something like men's jeans slung low on her hips.

SukezaneI suppose. But I'd rather not see this area (upper hip) too much.


YOKOAh, the little bit of flesh there. That's why I made the shirt longer than usual, so it can be neatly tucked in to cover it. You know how some people have that little bit showing, like a muffin top? I didn't want that. I've thought about that carefully.

SukezaneAnd the P-coat is nice too. (Top photo, 2nd page)

YOKOI think it looks cuter when worn, with a bit of volume. (Tries on the P-coat)

SukezaneIt does. Since you're wearing it, let's take a photo.



Aiming for 'cool,' not 'cute'
I'm drawn to menswear rather than overtly feminine styles.






SukezaneCould you try this one on too? (Right photo) It looks cooler paired with denim.

YOKOYes, it's cool. It really is.

SukezaneThen try it on!

YOKOI will!

(Changing time)

YOKOSee! Isn't it cute?

SukezaneYou have to say that yourself? (Laughs)

YOKOThe clothes! (Laughs) The clothes.

SukezaneBut really, it suits you so well. Let me take a picture of that. Full body. Wow, what do you call that? I feel like it would be really popular.


YOKO CHAN Collection



YOKO CHAN Collection



YOKOIsn't this (shirt and denim) cool on its own?

SukezaneIt is cool. But you probably need to be as tall and slim as you are for it to work.

YOKONo, but most people can wear them. They say the thighs are a bit loose.


SukezaneYou know, shooting here (by the window, away from the wall) is nice. Should we lower all the blinds? ...Actually, your office is cute.

YOKOI want to be able to serve drinks and food here. So people can come over, have a drink... like that.

SukezaneThose jeans... did you have a favorite pair of jeans you wore often?

YOKOI wear all sorts, from casual brands to luxury ones. But none of them felt quite right.

SukezaneMm-hmm.

YOKOI wanted simple, adult denim. Heavily distressed jeans aren't suitable for formal occasions, and jeans with faded color are also not ideal. I aimed for something with just a slight fade.

SukezaneSo, that's the right amount.

YOKONot overdone.

SukezaneNo ripped jeans.

YOKONo ripped jeans?

SukezaneWomen shouldn't wear ripped jeans anymore. ...Well, that's just my opinion, of course (laughs). What are we even talking about? (Laughs) Okay, could you try on the trench coat with those?

YOKOIt has covered buttons. I love it and wear it every day. (Top photo, 3rd page)

SukezaneIt suits you, as expected.

YOKOI made what I like, and it's my size.

SukezaneThe pocket placement on this trench coat is unique.

YOKOYes. Originally, they're placed more to the side, but mine are in the front. I don't want anything stuffed in them (laughs).

SukezaneThat creates a cleaner silhouette.

YOKOExactly! Having them here (center) rather than here (side) makes the silhouette look better.

SukezaneThat's good for women. For men, pockets there can be a bit inconvenient (laughs).

YOKOPlease write that down properly! (Laughs)

SukezaneThis combination is great. Washed jeans, a white shirt, and a beige trench coat! Wonderful. A bit menswear-inspired.

YOKOYes. I like menswear-inspired clothing.

SukezaneWhy do you like menswear? Do you prefer it?

YOKOI prefer menswear.

SukezaneNow that you mention it, you've always leaned towards menswear.

YOKOFeminine clothes are nice, but I personally want to be a 'cool' woman above all else.

SukezaneA strong, assertive type.

YOKOYes, assertive.

SukezaneSo you aim to be an assertive woman. That's very modern.

YOKOIs it? You know, Japanese women, in particular, have a certain traditional aspect. They have strong inner spirits and are assertive in their core, but visually, they appear very feminine, don't they?

SukezanePerhaps. That's true.

YOKOOr they're extremely masculine. I feel there are few women who maintain their femininity while having a masculine edge...

SukezaneSomeone with a feminine side but a masculine demeanor? Maybe you're right.

YOKONot someone who looks like a boy with very short hair... but someone who can wear these clothes, maybe with long hair, no accessories, or just simple diamond stud earrings. I think that would be cool. But I rarely meet women like that.

SukezaneYes, they're rare.

YOKOWomen who carry a well-worn Birkin bag without any other jewelry. I think there should be more women like that. They're hard to find these days.

SukezaneWomen with that European flair. They're not around now. Maybe about 20 years ago, there were some. Back when 'Yamanote' was still a fashion term.

YOKOIt's rare to find such women now.

SukezanePeople like the "B.C.B.G. TOKYO" types have decreased, haven't they? Or perhaps they're non-existent now.

YOKOI think it would be wonderful if there were more such women in Japan. I personally believe Japanese women are the best in the world, so I'd be happy if they could wear YOKO CHAN and become even cooler.

SukezaneIt's true, there aren't many stylishly intelligent women around.

YOKOIt's difficult. I'll do my best too.



Work out diligently, keep your hair beautiful.
You can't wear cool clothes well unless your inner self is cool first.



SukezaneYou know, I don't know who decided it, but nowadays, it seems like 'intelligent and stylish' isn't in demand. Everything seems to be heading in a more sensual direction. Look at fashion advertising, for example.

YOKOI want women who train rigorously and keep their bodies in shape to wear these clothes. Women who want to maintain their fitness and beauty.

SukezaneThere aren't many of those... Although, there are older women who are really into going to the gym.

YOKOThat's a bit different! (Laughs) Aren't you going in the wrong direction, sensei? (Laughs)

Sukezane(Laughs) It's difficult, isn't it? The balance. How does one achieve it? I don't know, since it's not my problem. But it would be nice if there were people who could pull this off. But you're right, wearing this does require a bit of a workout.

YOKOYes. I want women who are training their bodies and minds diligently to wear them. And they'll need to choose accessories to match, of course.

SukezaneAccessories are important. Your earrings are different today, YOKO CHAN. Is this one a diamond?

YOKOThis one is also a diamond.

SukezaneAnd the ring? Is that a diamond too?

YOKOIt's a diamond.

SukezaneDiamonds are essential, aren't they? Maybe I need diamonds too.

YOKOYOKO CHAN clothes pair well with diamonds and white gold, but large, hammered gold pieces would also look great.

SukezaneIndeed. Though, you tend to go for diamonds and silver, don't you? Or platinum? But gold looks good with this too.

YOKOGold is really nice. Especially larger pieces.

SukezaneThen, could you try on the gray one? Let's see the difference with gray. A change.

YOKOThis one? (The dress)

(YOKO CHAN goes to change. She reappears in the gray dress.)

YOKOThe atmosphere is completely different, isn't it?

SukezaneYou look like a teacher now.

YOKOThis is cute, isn't it!

SukezaneThere's a fullness here, slightly above the hem.

YOKOI actually wish it had side pockets.

SukezaneI thought so too. I wondered if there weren't pockets here.

YOKOI instinctively want to put my hands in pockets. But since this is made from a single piece of fabric, I didn't want a seam running down the side.

SukezaneMm-hmm. Isn't it better without them? With pockets, it might look a bit like maternity wear.

YOKOHow rude! (Laughs) I like the relaxed silhouette here.

SukezaneYou need that looseness. If it fit perfectly there, it would be over. (Laughs)

YOKOThat's so true. This looks even cooler on someone with a slim figure.

(And then the photoshoot)

YOKOI always make a funny face! (Laughs) What should I do?

SukezaneYou're shy, aren't you? (Laughs) Is it a way to hide your embarrassment?

YOKONo, no! YOKO CHAN should have a cool image! (Laughs) Sukezane-san, you shouldn't be drinking so much all the time.

SukezaneYou should tell me things like that more often.

YOKO...Sukezane-san, you always seem quite drunk, don't you? (Laughs)

SukezaneI get scolded often. I feel like you're hitting the mark.

YOKOYou have so much energy! Always staying up late. Even though you have to get up early.

SukezaneI can't feel the meaning of life without drinking.

YOKOBut you don't remember anything when you drink, do you? (Laughs)

SukezaneActually, I do remember.

YOKODon't you think you don't remember from around 11 PM to 4 AM?

SukezanePeople have been telling me that a lot lately.

YOKOIt's convenient that you can just say, 'I was drunk and don't remember'! (Laughs)

SukezaneI don't remember conversations with women... but I do remember conversations with men. I don't know why. I often feel down about it the next day. Like, 'You really hit the nail on the head.'

YOKODoes your behavior change depending on whether you're with only men, with a mix of men and women, or with someone you like?

SukezaneI get drunk the same way. ...Hmm, I wonder. If I'm with a group of complete strangers, it's a bit harder to get drunk. If I don't know anyone there.

YOKOYou really drink anywhere, don't you? Isn't it especially fun when you're drinking abroad?

SukezaneIt's fun! Incredibly fun.

YOKOYou can always get back to your hotel, and you're close to home. Nobody's watching, and everyone else is being loud (laughs).


SukezaneAnd there are usually more adults around, like in Paris.

YOKOYou can relax and have fun.

SukezaneYeah, that's true. In Paris, I sometimes wander around alone late at night. I feel adrift.

YOKOI feel like you might just freeze to death on the street one of these days.

SukezaneI don't sleep on the streets (laughs). I've matured... Anyway, my stories are irrelevant.

YOKOI can't help it! (Laughs) That look on your face is very business-like.

SukezaneExactly! Shall we talk about clothes again? (Laughs) We haven't touched on the knitwear yet.

YOKOThe knitwear.

SukezaneThe knitwear gives a slightly different impression from the other pieces.

YOKOI like it. I really do.

SukezaneThe way the shoulders are revealed... it's not overly revealing, but the silhouette is different from the 'menswear-like' style you mentioned earlier, isn't it?

YOKOThe knitwear is a bit more feminine.

SukezaneIs there a reason for that? Is that a key point of this wardrobe?

YOKOIsn't it nice how it looks like it could slip off, but doesn't? Like it's inviting you to take it off! (Laughs)

SukezaneSo, you considered the male gaze as well?

YOKONo, no! If it were beige or white, it would be quite feminine, wouldn't it? I considered those colors too, but they didn't feel like 'me.'

SukezaneSo you chose sharp colors. Brown is a bit sweet, though.

YOKOBrown is the sweetest. ...You're right. This part is a little bit feminine.

SukezaneThen, could you try on one of the knit pieces with the denim?

YOKOPlease wait a moment, everyone.

(YOKO CHAN changes and returns)


YOKO CHAN Collection




SukezaneThat looks cool. It's much better when worn than just hanging on the rack.

YOKOIt is. It's not overly feminine.

SukezaneIt looks better on. It's lovely. Very nice!

YOKOIt makes me look like a comedian! (Laughs)

SukezaneThat's fine. This is a comedy talk! (Laughs) But you look cool, YOKO CHAN. So poised. Do you work out regularly?

YOKOI work out a lot. Like a crazy person! (Laughs)

SukezaneHahaha! A crazy person (laughs).


YOKOI wake up and think, 'Wow, my abs look great today!' (Laughs) I train twice a week, which is the minimum. When I'm really into it, I train twice a week, go surfing on weekends, and then play golf after surfing.

SukezaneGolf after surfing!?

YOKOI go in the ocean early in the morning, then play golf from around late morning. If there's still daylight, I might go back to the ocean.

SukezaneThat sounds incredibly intense.

YOKOAh, well, I'm just floating around. Unfortunately (laughs). The paddling is for my abs (laughs).

SukezaneSurfers aren't usually this beautiful.

YOKOI'm out there with snot running down my nose, desperately trying.

(Sukezane adjusts YOKO CHAN's clothing.)

YOKOWow! Now I really feel like you're a stylist.

Sukezane(Laughs) I was! I was a stylist (laughs).

YOKOI forgot! (Laughs)



Stylish, intelligent, and capable of nurturing young talent,
I aim to be that kind of woman in my 30s, 40s, and 50s!



Sukezane...So, we've seen pretty much everything.

YOKOYou've seen it all!

SukezaneIt's wonderful. In the end, it's very simple, isn't it? 'Cool' is in a different category than 'cute.'

YOKOYes. I want to be a woman who can continue to wear this style in her 30s, 40s, and 50s.

SukezaneThat's a great thing to say. There aren't many such women in Japan, though. Do you have a muse, or an ideal woman in mind?

YOKOFor example, Mrs. Kawazoe, the founder of Canty in Iikura. I've never met her, but from what I've heard from others and read in books, I imagine she loved art and that's how she started the restaurant. She curated only what she liked, didn't advertise, and people came because they wanted to. She also supported talented young artists, nurturing them unconditionally. I find that incredibly cool. Of course, achieving that requires a certain upbringing and background, but such women are rare. My ideal is a woman who lives a sincere and cool life.

SukezaneThat's cool. I read the book 'The Canty Story' years ago. Though it focused more on her husband. But he was also very interesting. Reading it, you realize his wife had a great eye for things.

YOKOI really want to be able to nurture young talent soon too! (Laughs)

SukezaneYoung talent... (Laughs)

YOKOI'm still young myself! (Laughs)

SukezaneIt's tough.

YOKOIs it?

SukezaneBecause you don't grow yourself first.

YOKOReally!? (Laughs)

Sukezane(Laughs)

YOKOWould you like some champagne?

SukezaneYes, please. I want to grow, so give me champagne (laughs).

YOKOYay! I'll help you grow! (Laughs)
YOKO CHAN items will be available from August at Isetan Shinjuku, Beams (EFFE BEAMS), and Barneys New York.

YOKO CHAN

Born to a Chinese father and a Japanese mother. The brand name "CHAN" is her father's surname. She traveled the world from childhood, growing up in an international family where various languages were spoken. She studied abroad in New York during university. After working for a trading company, she spent eight years in PR for top international luxury brands, experiencing the Paris and Milan collections. With the keen aesthetic sense she cultivated during that time, she decided to launch "YOKO CHAN" with the desire to create clothes she truly wanted. This is her story.

YOKO CHAN
Tel. 03-3406-1808
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