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February 13, 2015
UNITED ARROWS: Buyer Motofumi 'Poggy' Kida Passionately Discusses 'Classics We Can Wear in Our Own Style'
UNITED ARROWS
Buyer Motofumi "Poggy" Kōki of UNITED ARROWS Speaks Passionately!
What are "Classics We Can Wear With Our Own Sense"?
With the theme of "proposing stylish items and sharing the joy of dressing," UNITED ARROWS is holding its autumn/winter campaign "UNITED ARROWS Changes the World" at stores nationwide. Featured in OPENERS' buyer special is Motofumi "Poggy" Kōki, buyer and director of UNITED ARROWS & SONS, who was described as "UA's ambassador" by Tyler Brûlé, editor-in-chief of MONOCLE magazine. While working as a buyer, Kōki deeply loves styles ranging from classic to street, expressing his character through his unique way of dressing. What are his recommendations for autumn/winter?—.
Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by SHIMOYAMA Nobuhiro
What are the New Classics for a Generation Raised on 90s Culture?
Kōki, who is in charge of buying for UNITED ARROWS Men's and whose Harajuku Main Store Men's Building celebrates its 20th anniversary this autumn, appeared in wide trousers from "Kamoshita UNITED ARROWS." He says the silhouette, with "a hint of the 30s," is fresh and that he's been wearing them often lately.
Regarding this season's characteristics, he says, "There's a strong British influence with a vintage and nostalgic feel, but we're also paying attention to our selection to offer items that allow for enjoyment through 'difference' by deliberately ignoring those trends."
"I grew up with 90s street culture and truly experienced a 'world where walls crumbled and twists became the norm.' In fashion, with existing walls broken and twists being commonplace, I've always sought 'things that are too twisted to exist in the world.' However, after last year's earthquake, I calmly looked at my own closet and realized I had few classics. Now, I'm focusing on items that can be used by a man for a lifetime, not just absolute classics, but I'm seeking new classics for a new generation – classics that we can wear with our own sense." Let's take a look at the 'new classics for this season' that Kōki approves.
MUST BUY 01 | DISTRICT
UA x DISTRICT: The First Ever Collaboration!
"Although UA fans might be surprised, this is the first collaboration jacket with the men's store 'DISTRICT.' It's a two-button single-breasted jacket with peak lapels and a herringbone body, reminiscent of a dinner jacket. It comes in black and navy. The chest pocket features a hidden pocket square, and the flaps of the pockets and the inner pockets are lined with Liberty prints handled by DISTRICT. Please take note of this as a dressy and dandy 'new classic.'"
Jacket ¥56,700 (DISTRICT / UNITED ARROWS)
MUST BUY 02 | Raincheetah
A Noteworthy Coat Born in Britain, Made in Japan
"This is a Raincheetah coat, deliberately tailored flatly, giving a fresh impression like something worn by the Skins. The distinctive brand name, Raincheetah, is a long-established brand that started in Cheetham Hill, Manchester, England, in 1949. True to its British origins, it features robust construction utilizing techniques to withstand wind and rain. It also has 60s-era silhouettes and details, with British fabric and a deep Royal Navy color, making it a potential new classic."
Coat ¥73,500 (Raincheetah / UNITED ARROWS)
MUST BUY 03 | NANTHALAT
Knitwear with a Fresh "Distance from the City"
"NANTHALAT is a young brand in its second season. The designer, originally from Laos, is based in the South of France rather than Paris. While the brand has an overall artistic feel, it possesses an ethnic charm and handcrafted quality that differs from urban brands, and I am strongly drawn to its 'distance from the city.' Being from Laos, it's also inspired by Asia, and I'm watching it as a crossover of East and West."
Sweater ¥110,250, Stole ¥23,100 (NANTHALAT / UNITED ARROWS)
MUST BUY 04 | PIGALLE
"Men's Clothing" from Paris's Pigalle District
"The Pigalle district in Paris is a nightlife area lined with cabarets and nightclubs, still retaining a bit of its seedy charm today. It's also home to the select shop 'PIGALLE.' The original collection 'PIGALLE COLLECTION,' launched last spring by designer Stéphane Ashpool, is popular at UNITED ARROWS. The logo T-shirts with graphics created by Stéphane's close friend ILL STUDIO are representative items. This knitwear is made in Italy and its ethnic flair emphasizes its masculine appeal."
Sweater ¥51,450 (PIGALLE / UNITED ARROWS)
MUST BUY 05 | SANDERS
The Shoes Steve McQueen Wore
"Sanders and Tricker's make this type of shoe, but the model Steve McQueen actually wore is said to be closer to Sanders. Sanders is a long-established brand founded in 1873 in Northampton, England, and still manufactures military footwear today. These are useful for adding 'lightness' when pairing with a suit, much like Liberano pairs with chukka boots. Wearing leather shoes with a suit might seem daunting, but it's fun to wear suits skillfully using shoes like these."
Shoes ¥31,500 (SANDERS / UNITED ARROWS)
On the "MOVIE" section of the UNITED ARROWS official site,
NiCE UA's New "Gachi Poggy UK 2012" Appears!
Motofumi "Poggy" Kōki appears in "NiCE UA," a video content series from UNITED ARROWS. A "slightly intense" story unfolds, following Kōki during his visit to London Collections this past June.
UNITED ARROWS Harajuku Main Store Men's Building
3-28-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo B1F-3F
Business Hours | 12:00–20:00 (Weekdays), 11:00–20:00 (Weekends & Holidays)
Tel. 03-3479-8180
www.united-arrows.jp