STOCKLAB: A store dealing in vintage clothing, brands, and even alcohol

Tomoki Sukezane & Editor-in-Chief (hereinafter, Sukezane)We've now arrived at STOCKLAB in Azabu-Juban.

Ryosuke Miyake (hereinafter, Miyake)I find the sophisticated selection here very appealing. The brands and items chosen by the owner and buyers really resonate with my aesthetic.




SukezaneThe ratio of women's items seems higher than men's.

MiyakeThat's right. I wish there were more men's items. Though, I do try on the women's pieces too. My philosophy is that 'clothes are meant to be worn.' It's meaningless to keep something rare vintage unworn out of fear of damaging it, or to display a pair of jeans worth a million yen without ever wearing them.

SukezaneSo you're not a collector, in that sense.

MiyakeThat might be part of it, but ultimately, clothes are meant to be worn.

SukezaneWhat is it about STOCKLAB that appeals to you, Miyake?





SukezaneThere are so many cute items that make you wish they were for men. I wish there were more men's pieces.

MiyakeYes, I'm always thinking that I wish they'd make more cute items I could wear (laughs). I also like that you can feel how much the owner loves clothes.

SukezaneYou can really sense that passion for clothing. That's what resonates most with you, isn't it?

MiyakeMy first meeting with him was at a bar. I thought it was a bit odd to be talking only about clothes at a bar (laughs).

SukezaneYou bumped into each other by chance?

MiyakeNo, it was through a friend's introduction. He has interesting theories, like only wearing Levi's of this particular cut. I think STOCKLAB really stands out among the many vintage clothing stores.

Page02. Check out the items Miyake selected!

Chanel Stadium Jumper ¥398,000 (SOLD)



SukezaneThe sizing is small, perhaps because it's women's, but it's cute.

MiyakeI really like the navy with the dark red and black color scheme.

SukezaneThe buttons are also a nice touch.

MiyakeThey're metal snap buttons, and I think the square shape, rather than round, is very cute. I also like the pockets, which are placed a bit higher.

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Chanel Leather Vest ¥42,800



SukezaneThis is also women's, isn't it?

MiyakeYes, but the size felt just right for me.

SukezaneIt suits you. It has a military feel.

MiyakePersonally, I really love gold buttons, leather, and vests.

SukezaneVests. I haven't heard that word in a while.

MiyakeThe leather texture is excellent, making it superb. The balance of the pocket placement is also exquisite.

SukezaneDo you fasten the front?

MiyakeThat depends on the clothing, of course. With six buttons, the number I fasten changes depending on the outfit. But I generally try to fasten the top one. I also like the long front and the extremely short back. Not just this piece, but items with unique designs really draw me in.

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Hermès Vintage Sweatshirt ¥47,800



SukezaneIt has a Pegasus patch on it.

MiyakeYes. As I mentioned earlier, I'm fond of patches. I collect them and even add them to my 1950s stadium jackets.

SukezaneThis is different from American school or motorcycle styles. It's truly an Hermès-like patch.

MiyakeThe color combination—gold on the outside, red inside, with a white Pegasus—is unusual and I like it. The overall size is large, but the snugness around the neck is exquisite, which I appreciate. I like it.

SukezaneWhat about the hem treatment? It looks a bit loose, doesn't it?

MiyakeThat's also great. The hem is designed to be adjustable. However, the length is a bit long, so it might balance well if worn tucked in. It's rare to find a sweatshirt with so many elements condensed into one, so I think it's wonderful.

SukezaneAs expected from Hermès.

MiyakeI also like the fabric – it's thick yet soft, with a nice crispness.

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Hermès Mountain Boots ¥128,000



SukezaneThey have a strong presence.

MiyakeThe sizing is perfect, and the color of the laces is lovely, making them superb. I like to make a statement with my footwear, but what genre would these boots fall into?

SukezanePerhaps mountain boots or trekking boots. They're also called monkey boots.

MiyakeI see. I believe they are modeled after mountain boots, but they brilliantly incorporate Hermès's exquisite fashion elements. The stitching is also very cool.

SukezaneHermès's stitching work is indeed superb. These are very cool. A single stitch can change the entire look.

MiyakeThis is where they differ from other outdoor brands. I also like the belt design. If it weren't for this buckle... I don't think I'd be as drawn to them.

SukezaneSo the belt also plays a significant role.

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Jean Paul Gaultier '90s Deadstock Sunglasses ¥168,000



SukezaneThe spring-like design on the sides is distinctive.

MiyakeI like this spring mechanism. I felt the design fit perfectly when worn.

SukezaneThey suit you well, as you have a small face.

MiyakeI love black and gold. If it were pure gold, that would be even better. Even without this spring design, I think they'd have a unique coolness compared to other sunglasses. Originality in design is a major plus.

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Hermès Limited Edition Boucle Sellier Bracelet (50 pieces worldwide) ¥598,000 (SOLD)

Page03. An Interview with Buyer Fujii from STOCKLAB

An Interview with Buyer Fujii: STOCKLAB's Best Sellers and Brands to Watch

SukezaneWhat sparked your interest in vintage designer clothing?



SukezaneWhat kind of vintage clothing do you particularly like yourself?

FujiiI like both American and European vintage clothing, but I'm drawn to anything with a good vibe. I personally only wear Levi's jeans, so my tops are mostly things that go well with denim. I buy them regardless of whether they're new or old.

SukezaneYour store has more women's items than men's, but what sells the best?

FujiiChanel tweed jackets sell very well. Silver jewelry is also in high demand. The reason for the larger selection of women's items is partly because men's items generally have a more limited range.

SukezaneVintage designer brands seem to be increasing in value. Is their worth actually rising?

FujiiPersonally, I hope their value increases further. For example, clothing by (Jean Paul) Gaultier and (Gianfranco) Ferré is traded at low prices in Japan.

SukezaneSo they aren't highly valued in Japan?

FujiiThat's how it seems. They seem to fetch much higher prices in France, but in Japan, they're really cheap. You can buy them for around 1,000 yen.



SukezaneIs that perhaps due to lower brand recognition?

FujiiThat might be one factor.

SukezaneYou mentioned Gaultier and Ferré. Are there any other brands whose value you think might increase?

FujiiSince it's not getting any attention, it's probably not even being discussed, but personally, I'm interested in Renoma. I've been searching for an old men's field jacket from before the licensing era, worn by Andy Warhol, but I haven't been able to find one.

SukezaneThe founder was Maurice Renoma, right? I believe he's still alive, and he also takes photographs. I met him once in Paris.

FujiiYes, yes!

SukezaneHe invited me to see his photos.

FujiiI'm incredibly envious.

SukezaneIt was full of nude photos. I see, Renoma. That's interesting. Indeed, nowadays there's only licensing available. You're right.

FujiiThat's right, I can only find licensed items. I'd love to find Renoma. Even just seeing photos of the collection created by Renoma himself would be wonderful.

SukezaneWhat about Margiela from the '90s?

FujiiOf course, I personally like it. It goes without saying, but Margiela should receive more attention for creating universally acclaimed clothing. I want it myself, and the collections from when he was designing for Hermès are also superb.

SukezaneSo, like Hermès and Chanel, do you think Saint Laurent and Dior might follow suit?

FujiiSaint Laurent has many licensed items, making it difficult to distinguish them from originals. Compared to Hermès and Chanel, both Saint Laurent and Dior currently have fewer items available. I am searching for pieces from Ferré's time at Dior, but they are hard to come by. Vintage Saint Laurent often featured quality close to haute couture, but for some reason, they haven't survived.



SukezaneWhen it comes to designer brands, are European ones the main focus? What about American brands?

FujiiIndeed, I can't immediately think of many American designers.

SukezaneBy the way, what about (Alexander) McQueen?

FujiiTheir value in the second-hand market might not be that high yet. Jil Sander doesn't seem to be valued much either. In our industry, prices are influenced by whether items sell or not. In that regard, the value of Hermès and Chanel is remarkable. They are simply very popular.

SukezaneEspecially for women, perhaps. Thank you for your time today.

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Tomoki Sukezane & Editor-in-Chief Dialogue | Vol. 26: Ryosuke Miyake, MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model (Part 2)

→Ryosuke Miyake, MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model (Part 1)

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