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February 16, 2015
G-STAR RAW | Tomoki Sukezane on the Making of the "G-Star RAW" Collaboration Denim
G-STAR RAW
From Episode of Completion to Styling Points
Tomoki Sukezane on the Making of His Collaboration Denim (1)
G-STAR RAW, known for its collaborations with artists and actors, has now partnered with fashion directorTomoki Sukezanefor its first-ever collaboration with a Japanese individual, creatingcollaboration denimSukezane, who excels not only as a stylist and editor but also as a photographer, selected the brand's popular "NEW RADAR" series. As he had personally tested and approved the model, the resulting denim reflects his ideas while adhering to the original's characteristics, creating a modern and sharp impression. It features a relaxed tapered fit and a cropped length, offering a unisex silhouette that can be worn by both men and women without feeling out of place. To commemorate the launch of this collaboration denim, we spoke with Sukezane at the launch party about the story behind the collaboration and styling tips.
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by ANDO Sara
A Simple, Modern Finish That Isn't Too Casual
—Could you tell us about how this collaboration came about?
My relationship with the brand deepened when I became the curator for G-STAR RAW's club event "RAW NIGHTS" about three years ago. They've done interesting things, like having the late Dennis Hopper start reciting poetry on the runway, collaborating on mid-century furniture, and featuring Anton Corbijn, the rock photographer who has shot for artists like U2 and David Bowie...
I had always found G-STAR RAW's brand activities intriguing. The staff at the headquarters were also very friendly and pleasant. So, when they approached me at the end of last year asking if I'd like to create denim together, I was deeply honored.
—Please tell us about the process of creating this collaboration denim.
I visited their Amsterdam headquarters in April, and we decided on everything within a single day. In the morning, we toured the company, and in the afternoon, we brainstormed ideas for fabrics and details. Since we decided to include my logo as an embroidery, I drew the logo on the spot, and they digitized it. The development was incredibly fast-paced.
—What do you think of the finished product?
I tried on all six G-STAR RAW models and found "NEW RADAR" to be the most aligned with my personal style, so I decided to base the collaboration on it. The finished product has a very tight construction. I suspect G-STAR RAW also had an intention to shift the brand more towards a mode aesthetic. In the sample stage, it had a bit more room, but the final product became even slimmer. The lower leg is quite narrow, so it might be a little difficult to put on (laughs). I usually wear a size 30, but a 31 fits me perfectly. Since it's unisex, we offer sizes starting from 25. It's possible that the style might suit women even better.
—What details did you focus on?
I believe G-STAR RAW denim is characterized by its incorporation of various designs, but I wanted to achieve a simple and modern feel, so I tried to strip it down as much as possible by removing tags and leather patches. The most significant change is the length; while we offer a regular length, I opted for a slightly shorter, cropped length. That's perhaps what sets it apart from other models.
From the beginning, I thought a cropped length would be ideal for this denim. I often see people wearing cropped styles when walking around town, and I think they can be easily paired with various outfits. I'm not particularly fond of overly relaxed looks, so I proposed a sharp silhouette. Furthermore, I thought that by adjusting the size, women could also wear this style, so I consulted with the women at the Amsterdam project, and they responded with "That's a great idea!" which led to the decision for a unisex rollout.
G-STAR RAW
From Episode of Completion to Styling Points
Tomoki Sukezane on the Making of His Collaboration Denim (2)
“If You Keep Repeating the Same Thing, Nothing New Will Happen”—“
—Could you share some recommended ways to wear them and styling suggestions?
Of course, they would look great with T-shirts and sneakers, but personally, I tend to wear denim as if it were slacks, so I hope people will see it as an extension of that. For example, pairing them with a tucked-in shirt, as I'm wearing today, or with a jacket and leather shoes. And most importantly, I'd love for women to wear them.
I think many women like slim-fit denim, so they might be able to wear these without feeling out of place. For the top, rather than something tight, a looser-fitting top might look cooler. A masculine shirt paired with heels could create a sexy look. I really encourage you to try it.
—You created an installation featuring the collaboration denim; what was the concept behind it?
Given the location in Shibuya and the fact that there's a club popular with young people next to the shop, I was inspired by the image of a disco. A crazy disco with a mood reminiscent of the 80s, featuring dim lighting and a spinning mirror ball. I also drew inspiration from Yayoi Kusama's work, creating a style where you peek into the room. I wanted to convey the idea of constantly seeking mirror-like opinions, so I covered the entire space in mirrors.
—Would you like to continue collaborating on product creation in the future?
Yes, I would. If I can be of service, I'd love to do it again. I found creating products to be truly enjoyable. It's fascinating to connect with people and things outside my usual sphere, and I find it very rewarding to learn about perspectives and ways of thinking that I don't possess. When creating magazine pages or thinking about styling, my approach and mindset always evolve. It's natural for expression to change based on external stimuli, one's position, circumstances, or environment. Of course, I believe the fundamental standards remain unchanged.
However, if you keep repeating the same thing, nothing new will happen. It becomes boring if it turns into a routine, so I hope to interact with as many different people as possible.
—Thank you very much.
G-STAR RAW × TOMOKI SUKEZANE
Price: ¥19,950
Release Date: September 6 (Thursday): G-STAR RAW STORE TOKYO (Shibuya, Tokyo)
September 13 (Thursday): G-STAR RAW STORE locations, nano・universe locations, ZOZOTOWN
A video capturing the behind-the-scenes of the production is also available! More details on the collaboration denim →
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