FASHION /
FEATURES
February 23, 2015
LACOSTE: All Polo Shirts Lead Back to the L1212
LACOSTE
Episode 1: Back to Basics
All Polo Shirts Lead to the L1212
“Lacoste invented the polo shirt,Lacosteand the Lacoste L1212 is the origin of all polo shirts in existence.” While this fact is almost common knowledge among fashion insiders, it remains largely unknown to the general customer. This article examines the background of the creation of the classic L1212, its materials, and its manufacturing process, to reconfirm its appeal as a product.
Text by KASE Tomoshige (OPENERS)Photographs by LACOSTE
The Greatest "Invention" Was the Piqué Fabric
The Lacoste "L1212," released in 1933. Let us first note that this shirt, created by René Lacoste, a three-time French Open champion and professional tennis player, is the prototype for all polo shirts that exist today. Next, we must write about why this "L1212" was produced.
René Lacoste was not only a great tennis player but also an excellent businessman and inventor. While details will be left for the next installment, "Its History as Sportswear," he was a man who brought many ideas to fruition, including the development of a ball machine and improvements to rackets and strings. The "L1212," a new sports shirt for tennis, was one of these ideas.
Until the 1920s, tennis courts were graced by what in Japan would be called "dress shirts." These were made of stiff fabric, had buttons all the way down the placket, and were long-sleeved. What did René Lacoste improve?—The biggest point was the fabric.
The L1212
The origin of all polo shirts and Lacoste's proud classic, the "L1212." While there have been minor changes over the years in sleeve length, hem length, and the number of buttons, it remains a comfortable sports shirt made from jersey or piqué fabric. The original features a large, soft collar and straight armholes with straight sleeve attachments. It is now available in a wide range of colors.
Body length: 72cm
Body width: 54cm
Sleeve width: 24cm
Hem width: 54cm
*Size 4 (L) measurements
Price: ¥9,975
Available in 30 colors
To ensure "stretchability" and "breathability," René Lacoste used "piqué" cotton fabric. This is a type of knit weaving known for its excellent fit and a characteristic honeycomb-like raised texture on the surface. Its breathability and reduced contact area with the skin create a smooth, comfortable feel.
It would not be an exaggeration to say that this fabric is the "L1212's" identity. It is also René Lacoste's answer to his own desire to "play comfortably."
Next, let's touch upon the material of the fabric, cotton. First, regarding cultivation: carefully selected cotton, known for its strength and suppleness, is sourced from Egypt, the United States, and Peru. Particularly, cotton from the fertile lands of La Piura in northern Peru has a fiber length of approximately 40mm and possesses a luster and texture similar to silk.
Long fibers selected during harvest produce long threads. In simple terms, the length of the thread itself results in "durability" for the fabric. This leads to a fabric that resists pilling even after washing and is highly durable.
Furthermore, while most manufacturers typically weave fabric using a single thread, Lacoste weaves using two threads twisted together. This is a measure to enhance durability and also has the effect of producing beautiful colors.
Products That Clear Strict Standards
The "L1212" (click the top image to see its beautiful colors) is now available in 30 color variations. Strict standards are also applied to dyeing. It undergoes repeated testing for resistance to washing, sweat, bleach, and sunlight, as well as for harmlessness. The dye is then fully permeated to the core of the fibers.
Finally, after drying, a final treatment is performed with a chemical solution using resin. It is through these processes that Lacoste polo shirts maintain their color fastness. For reference, avoiding washing at temperatures above 40 degrees Celsius and air-drying should help the colors last longer.
PH051E
The "PH051E," a new classic debuted by newly appointed Creative Director Felipe Oliveira Baptista. Its most notable features are its slim silhouette and high degree of fit. Complementing the overall slim impression, the collar is small and stiffly finished. This latest polo shirt inherits Lacoste's heritage while evolving. It can be said to be a model that has become more versatile as an inner layer for tight jackets and blousons.
Body length: 71cm
Body width: 52cm
Sleeve width: 20cm
Hem width: 49cm
*Size 4 (L) measurements
Price: ¥9,975
Available in 6 colors
The final stage in the manufacturing of the "L1212" is sewing. This is the process of carefully joining all parts, such as the collar, placket, and body. Specialized sewing machines are used for assembling the collar, knitting the sleeve ribs, and for the tubular tape that covers the collar seams. The placket, one of the "L1212's" distinctive features, is particularly carefully finished. Meticulous attention is paid to ensure that the interlining does not protrude and that the seams are not crooked.
Incidentally, although Lacoste has factories worldwide, products sewn in Japanese factories are said to be evaluated as having the highest quality within the company.
The Lacoste "L1212" is released to the world after clearing strict standards in all aspects: materials, dyeing, and sewing. Born as a sports shirt, its functionality and simple design have continued to be highly praised, and it has now become an indispensable item in men's fashion.
One could write a whole book about the appeal of this ultimate classic, the "L1212," but we will conclude by mentioning that in this year, 2012, another "new classic" has been born.
The new Lacoste polo shirt, "PH051E," is generating buzz among fashion enthusiasts. As seen in the photos, its defining characteristic is a slimmer silhouette compared to the "L1212." The collar is smaller, the length is shorter, and in simple terms, it's a "more fashion-conscious" piece. Yet, it retains classic details such as the crocodile logo, placket design, and hem slit treatment. This is a polo shirt that respects the history cultivated by Lacoste while evolving to match the spirit of the times.—that is the "PH051E."
The undisputed origin of the polo shirt, the "L1212," and the new classic reflecting the times, the "PH051E." We will conclude the first report by focusing again on these two models, which symbolize Lacoste of the past and Lacoste of the future. The second installment, scheduled for release soon, will delve further into Lacoste's history. Please continue to look forward to it.
Lacoste Shibuya Store Opens!
On Wednesday, May 3rd, Japan's first flagship store, featuring all lines including Men's, Women's, Kids', and LACOSTE L!VE, opened in Shibuya. The global, unified shop design, similar to those in Paris and New York, is also noteworthy.
1-15-19 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6418-7265
Business Hours: 11:00–20:00
Irregular holidays
Fabrica
Tel. 03-6894-0318
http://www.lacoste.co.jp




