Relaxation, Freedom, and Happiness!

ShimazuShall we start with a general overview from Paris Fashion Week? Frankly, there are many negative aspects. For instance, Raf Simons faces a situation where, despite his talent, he cannot create the clothes he desires due to financial constraints.

GenmaIndeed, it's difficult for talented individuals now. Raf Simons is a treasure of the men's fashion world, so it's a shame.

ShimazuExactly, his contributions are remarkable. On a positive note,Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones. Before Vuitton, he was atDunhill, and I wasn't particularly expecting much this season. However, it turned out to be a surprisingly good collection.

GenmaI've been friends with Kim since our student days in London. He was always very communicative and had a great eye for things. Even at Dunhill, and now at Louis Vuitton, his ability to utilize iconic elements and capture the zeitgeist is truly impressive. I feel that a sense of relaxation and ease is a prevailing theme across the spring/summer collections, so I found Kim's sandals quite charming. I also liked the blanket-like pieces.

Focus on Kim Jones' Louis Vuitton

GenmaI think the themes of happiness and relaxed silhouettes are significant characteristics for spring/summer.

ShimazuHappiness, you say.

GenmaDidn't you feel a sense of happiness?

ShimazuIt's a happy era. Perhaps it also reflects a desire for happiness.



ShimazuYes, sporty formal.

GenmaKim Jones' Louis Vuitton perfectly captures that.

ShimazuIt's brilliant how it encompasses the spectrum from sporty to formal. Kim Jones is adept at incorporating such trends.

GenmaSacai, which I'm involved with, also uses espadrilles, like those worn by Picasso in Barcelona. They incorporate sporty elements in the materials.

ShimazuSacai's store opened in Aoyama, didn't it?

GenmaYes, it opened.

ShimazuCostume National also opened a shop in that area, but the bar is nice. Apparently, they have good vintage champagne (laughs).

GenmaIt's a complex facility with a store, bar, and gallery, right?

ShimazuSacai is also on that street. In any case, it's nice to have happy news. The area around Kōtō-dōri has been losing its energy, so this is good. Harajuku is also struggling, so people are gradually moving towards Shibuya. Brands like Lad Musician and W)TAPS, for example. There's a certain movement happening.

GenmaIn Japan, I think there are more personal stores. For example, Mr. Miyashita's store for The Soloist. Like Sacai, they strongly express a personal taste.

ShimazuIt feels like the atmosphere of individual shops, doesn't it? As if they intentionally chose to be individual stores.

GenmaI think the experience of customers shopping while interacting directly with the designer is appealing.

ShimazuIsetan used to have divisions, but now they've removed them all, allowing customers to shop freely, whether it's for Dolce & Gabbana or Lanvin, mixing and matching. I think that's a very good approach. It's a concept of select shops per floor, both domestically and internationally.

Spring/Summer 2012 Details

ShimazuTo deviate slightly, in terms of collections, Prada andLouis Vuittonwere good. For me, considering the overall composition, Lanvin stands out.

GenmaI agree. For me too. Lanvin's details are superb, and I find them truly remarkable.

ShimazuThe level of perfection is high.

GenmaThere are so many details that make you look twice. For Lanvin, I believe being chic is paramount. Dries Van Noten is also lovely.

ShimazuBig shoulders were prevalent in spring/summer. This seems to be an extension of the influence fromBurberry's Prorsum, carrying over from the previous season. We saw this at Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, and Trussardi. The number of oversized outerwear pieces has also increased significantly. And there are many raglan sleeves too.

GenmaWith relaxed silhouettes, raglan sleeves naturally create a softer look. Givenchy also adopts this. It might also be due to the prints. Raglan sleeves are effective for making prints look beautiful.

ShimazuThen there are the single-button jackets. The fusion of sport and classic was common. There were some brands, I won't name them, that I wish had done better (laughs). Their themes and execution felt a bit uncertain, perhaps appearing slightly out of place.

GenmaAs I mentioned earlier, for spring/summer, everyone seemed to be trying to convey a sense of happiness.

ShimazuContinuing from the autumn/winter season, I believe mountain-inspired themes will persist. In Japan, this includes brands like White Mountaineering and Junya Watanabe. I'm keeping an eye on Undercover, N. Hoolywood, and Visvim. Regarding Undercover, what has changed from the past is their focus on real clothes. The idea of making the person next to you look as stylish as possible. This applies to Paris Fashion Week as well; large-scale spectacular shows are becoming less common. Of course, some collections still resemble costume shows (laughs).

GenmaPerhaps the era calls for new proposals that are realistic yet innovative, rather than something entirely new.

The Artisan Spirit in Designers

ShimazuIt's about reality rather than spectacle. I believe we are in an era where a certain way of thinking is shifting. Those who aren't focused on reality might want to replicate what Mugler did in the 1980s, but perhaps they lack the contemporary relevance or the technical skill in garment construction.

GenmaTechnically, anything is possible in this era. However, it's also true that there are fewer designers with an artisan's spirit compared to the past. Few people seem to be deeply committed to that artisanal aspect. Japanese designers often focus on such details. For example, the finishing of the garment's interior. Mr. Abe of Sacai, Mr. Miyashita of The Soloist, and Mr. Jonio of Undercover all meticulously sew with a strong focus on methodology. Personally, I feel we are in an era where we should propose items that are not merely disposable. Of course, fashion is inherently consumed. But I believe we want to regain the joy of ownership.

ShimazuMr. Miyashita is incredibly meticulous. He truly understands clothing. He also knows many places. When asked about sourcing fabric for a T-shirt, he can tell you where to get it, and he's knowledgeable about the origins of materials. He's very particular about yarn counts; I truly consider him an artisan.

GenmaMr. Miyashita even visits the factories.

ShimazuTruly, it's like a personal shop (laughs).

GenmaHowever, artisans haven't disappeared in Europe either.

What Spring/Summer Items Are the Two Experts Focusing On?

ShimazuRaglan-sleeved baseball jackets. While the shape is traditional, they are made of modern materials like leather.

GenmaI appreciate pieces where the details are sporty but the finish is chic.

ShimazuAlso, I've noticed many MA-1 jackets recently. At Japanese trade shows, everyone seems to be making them. However, unlike the original MA-1s with their rounded silhouette, these are slimmer. I think this could be a fashion theme. Dries Van Noten, for example. Sacai is also making them.

GenmaWe are. Ours is made with a bonding technique using a sporty fabric with a brushed lining. Essentially, the concept of creating classic items with sporty materials feels very contemporary. Regarding the baseball jacket you mentioned earlier, I particularly like the one fromLouis Vuittonmade of crocodile material. Incidentally, Kim seems to have shot the campaign visuals in Africa.

ShimazuSport and travel.

GenmaExactly.

ShimazuAnd yet, they haven't overtly incorporated African motifs, which is skillfully done.

GenmaSandals are also key for spring/summer. And floral prints. I suppose you're thinking of Prada (laughs).

ShimazuCatchy 50s-style shirts, for example. Also, relaxed pants. And transparent knits that you wear over shirts.

GenmaHigh-gauge knits with a touch of softness.

ShimazuThere's also the military style. This season's fashion emphasizes comfort, seen in raglan sleeves. This is essential for contemporary style. Being natural is cool! I've written that down in my notes (laughs).

GenmaThe keywords 'happy' and 'relaxed' are definitely part of the aesthetic.

ShimazuAnd a sense of openness!

GenmaMugler, for instance, is making interesting attempts.

ShimazuMany collections this season used natural light, didn't they? I understood it in Japan due to energy conservation, but I wondered why they were doing it in Paris.

GenmaPerhaps the entire world is in that mood. Instead of elaborate lighting, it's more about a natural, open approach. Raglan sleeves, for example, clearly offer more freedom of movement than inset sleeves. In Paris, I saw some flamboyant fashionistas, but overall, the style was chic. For OPENERS readers, I'd like to encourage a chic approach.

ShimazuRoom shoe styles are also refreshing. I'm planning to buy a Lanvin suit this autumn/winter; it's my current obsession.

GenmaAfter seeing the collections, I truly felt that 'happy' is the keyword.

ShimazuThere were also shows with a parade of nude models in swimwear. Some elements of gay fashion were present too.

GenmaI hope those elements continue to exist.

ShimazuYes, because they're amusing.Bottega Veneta's overalls and coveralls also caught my eye. Clothes that look stylish on their own. I felt there were many items that stand out when worn individually.

GenmaYes, complex styling wasn't really emphasized.

We Want Adults to Dress Fashionably

ShimazuSporty and casual jackets inspired by equestrian and fencing are also appealing. Elegant, long-length jackets or compact short jackets. For footwear, think golf shoes or deck shoes.

GenmaI'm not sure if 'sporty' is a derivative of 'relaxed,' but I find the construction with ample room in the shoulders and the use of sporty materials with bonding for structure particularly appealing. If one were to make purely sporty items, Patagonia would likely be superior. What's good is the addition of that modern, extra element.

ShimazuAlthough we are heading into autumn/winter, information on the web is faster than in magazines. However, I believe it's more beneficial to anticipate next spring/summer and apply it to autumn/winter. It allows for versatility and the seasons don't change that drastically.

GenmaThat's true; trends can be difficult to sustain. The happy vibe of spring/summer can easily carry over into autumn/winter without any issues.

ShimazuLanvin and Prada offer a sense of stability, but some designers excel in spring/summer while struggling in autumn/winter, and vice versa. Prada excels in both.

GenmaTheir proposals are effortless yet incredibly refined. They appeal greatly to connoisseurs.

ShimazuIn terms of color, while 'happy' is the keyword, rather than typical spring/summer pastels, deeper shades like purple, wine, navy, and veridian will convey happiness. These are colors often seen in the early 90s; rich tones are key.

GenmaIn my case, I'm involved in directing stores in places like Hong Kong, and from a real market perspective, Japanese brands are receiving a lot of attention.

ShimazuThey are very popular, aren't they? Brands like Visvim, Neighborhood, The Soloist, kolor, and Sacai. In terms of market demographics, the age range is youngest in Japan. London is also experiencing a boom in new stores, with many opening in the East End, and Japanese designers are highly regarded.

ShimazuOf course, some brands have sizing that is specific to Japan or Asia, which may not suit Europeans, even if they are very popular in Asia.

GenmaI have the impression that OPENERS readers are generally older, but I want adults to dress fashionably more and more. When you dress up and go out, it brings happiness, doesn't it?

ShimazuYes, that will be the fashion keyword from this autumn/winter through next spring/summer.

Annual Talk! Stylist Yoshiyuki Shimazu x Director Daisuke Genma - Click here for Part 2!

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