“Aren’t Japanese People More Stylish?”

──How many times have you visited Japan?

I first came to Japan in 1965. I’ve been coming every year since,—considering my age, you can figure out how many times that is (laughs).

──Please tell us about your impression of Japan in the 1960s.

It was a time when Japanese people were beginning to understand fashion and also beginning to learn about France. Of course, it was also our first time truly getting to know Japan, so it left a strong impression. It was truly an era of "mutual discovery."

Japan and France were completely different then. Nowadays, you rarely see people wearing kimonos, but back then, about one in three women wore one. Men wore suits. My impression of Tokyo was that it was full of "businessmen."





──Was fashion more accessible in France at that time, unlike in Japan?

No, the 1960s were still an era when clothes were made by "tailors." You went to the tailor with your parents. Meaning, your parents decided what your children's clothes would be. I thought, "That can't be right," and started making clothes. You should choose your own clothes.

──How have Renoma's designs changed from then to now?

Back then, clothing production emphasized craftsmanship. Now, I would say our collections are more international, incorporating various elements. There were no fashion schools then. There was truly nothing. Now, everything is available.

When I first started, movie stars, politicians, and musicians supported Renoma. Our general customers were "rebellious people." Those who didn't want to wear what their parents chose. But now, parents see their children wearing Renoma and buy our clothes. It's interesting.

──In that context, what kind of fashion do you plan to propose going forward?

From now on, it won't be enough to just be within fashion; lifestyle and philosophy will become important. Culture and history too.

When I debuted, clothes were driven by the couturier (designer), and there was only women's fashion. I created menswear, so designers like Saint Laurent, Cerruti, and Ralph Lauren would come to my shop and buy clothes. At the time, Renoma proposed a style that was a "fusion of America and France," so perhaps that resonated with Ralph Lauren (laughs).

After those times, we now have the "Renoma Café Gallery," a restaurant. We want people to enjoy both food and art. I believe we are becoming a brand that creates a lifestyle, not just fashion.





──So, the brand acts as a cultural hub?

A famous scholar visiting our Paris store once said, "People don't come to Renoma to buy clothes, but to find inspiration." We want to continue exhibiting photos, books, and art.

──Which do you think is more stylish today, France or Japan?

Actually, in France, women pay attention to style, but men aren't very interested in fashion (laughs). Japanese men might be more chic?

France has people of all skin tones, body types, and heights. But Japanese people have the same skin tone and are not vastly different in build. Since one element of fashion is "differentiation from others," perhaps fashion has become an important tool for Japanese people to set themselves apart.

──By the way, what kind of clothes do you personally like, Mr. Renoma?

Well, I'm an early riser. Today, I didn't want to wake the person I'm staying with, so I got dressed without turning on the light, and this is how I ended up (laughs).





Maurice Renoma
Born in Paris in 1940. Founder and director of Renoma. He began helping at his father's tailor shop at the age of 12. In the early 1960s, he gained prominence by creating garments using fabrics like silk, satin, and mirror cloth, and by developing collections based on themes using linen and soft materials. He opened his boutique on Rue de la Pompe in Paris in 1963. Artists such as Picasso, Dalí, Serge Gainsbourg, Elton John, and The Beatles visited his shop. He introduced groundbreaking items like the concaved shoulder jacket, patchwork leather blouson, and baggy pants, establishing himself as a pioneer in menswear during the 1960s and 70s. Since then, he has garnered support from fans not only in Europe but also in America and Asia, growing Renoma into a global brand. In 2013, he celebrated his 50th anniversary.
https://www.renoma.jp/

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