Fashion
March 19, 2015
An Interview with Kaon Designer Kaoru Yoneyama (Part 1)
Spotlight on Fashion Designers: Fall/Winter 2009-10
Romantic clothing for adults, born from the support of many.
Kaon Designer Kaoru Yoneyama: An Interview (Part 1)
A sweetness unique to adulthood.
These words perfectly capture the essence of Kaon's creations. How are these garments, which possess originality yet invariably make the wearer look charming, brought to life? We asked designer Kaoru Yoneyama to reflect on her origins.
Interview and text by Chika TsushimaPhotography by Emiko Hara
Clothing cannot be made by one person alone.
—You weren't originally set on becoming a designer, were you?
That's right. I've loved clothes for as long as I can remember, so I wanted to work in the fashion industry, but I didn't pursue any specialized studies. My fashion career began with a part-time job at Ray Beams during my student days. That's also where I met Yoko Sato, the designer of 'Pippi'.
After that, I moved to United Arrows and continued to work in sales. However, I was in a job related to fashion because I loved clothes, but one day, a sudden anxiety struck me. 'Do I love clothes too much? Is it okay for me to stay in the fashion world?' So I quit United Arrows...
—So you stepped away from the fashion scene for a while?
Yes. I decided to pursue graphic design and enrolled in a design vocational school. But as I learned more about graphic design, I found myself increasingly thinking, 'If I'm going to do this, I'd rather design clothes,' and I was reminded of how much I truly loved clothing.
After that, I worked as a fashion designer for a brand for about three years. It was almost entirely self-taught, but I learned a great deal from being on the job, and that's where I learned the fundamentals of garment creation. Then I went independent and launched 'Kaon'.
—So you became a designer quite naturally.
Perhaps as a result of my love for clothes. But like any brand, the challenges began after the debut; initially, it was incredibly difficult to create pieces that matched my vision. When my designs were translated into the production process, the results differed from my imagination.
After all, clothing cannot be made by one person alone. Through working with various pattern makers, I met someone I now rely on immensely, and I've visited factories so many times that they now create the fabrics I desire. It takes time and the cooperation of many people for a garment to become a product, and it's thanks to their help that 'Kaon' exists today.
—So garment creation truly relies on everyone's collective effort.

Kaoru Yoneyama
Looking at my past work, I can clearly see where it didn't turn out as I envisioned. There were so many areas that needed improvement. While I still have a way to go, it feels like I'm finally able to create pieces closer to my original vision. That's why my current staff are all people I can trust.

Kaon Lace Jacket: ¥59,850
The Difficulty of Adding Trends to Core Elements
—Kaon's garments are born from the collaboration of many people, but what is your own favorite part of the process?
It's challenging, but I still love designing. It's my job, and clothes can't be made without design (laughs). Conversely, I dislike production (laughs). When a factory tells me they have less fabric than expected and asks what to do—that's something I truly can't handle, it's so frustrating (laughs).
—Indeed (laughs). But surely you face challenges even with designs you love?
As long as I'm creating and selling clothes, they won't be available in stores unless buyers approve of them. In that case, I can't just push my own preferences exclusively.
I believe that as it's my brand, I must convey its core essence, but deciding how much to compromise my own vision and how much trend to incorporate is crucial, and I always struggle with that balance. Personally, I like simple things, but that wouldn't be interesting, so I approach design with the mindset of adding some playful element. I often find myself agonizing over whether everyone will be pleased, which is why I get so absorbed when designing (laughs).
—What serves as the source of inspiration for your creations?
The fundamental process for my designs is 'how to best utilize materials I love.' So, it all begins with selecting the fabric. Once I find a fabric, I proceed step-by-step: 'What item would suit this material?' and then, 'What details are necessary for that item?' to refine the design.
For the design itself, I anticipate upcoming trends while drawing from my own repertoire of preferred styles. That's why it inevitably ends up having my signature touch. About 70% of it is my sensibility, and the remaining 30% is adding trends as a spice.
—As a designer, when do you feel the most joy?
When I happen to see someone wearing my clothes, of course, I feel happy. Also, the moment when all shipments for the season are completed (laughs). Even though I'm already working on the next season, I don't feel motivated until the shipments are done, as if I'm wearing two pairs of shoes at once (laughs).

Retailers
United Arrows Main Store Women's Building
Tel. 03-3479-8176
Isetan Shinjuku Store 4F Re-Style
Tel. 03-3225-2558
Aquagirl Shinjuku
Tel. 03-5908-4718
Estnation Product Call Center
Tel. 03-5220-0205