Sadaharu Aoki (1): "Leveraging Japan"
Savoring Sadaharu Aoki's Confections (1)
Leveraging 'Japan' as a Weapon
Based in Paris's Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a fiercely competitive district for Western confectionery, Sadaharu Aoki is hailed as a top-tier patissier even in his native France, a leading figure in the world of Western sweets. In March 2005, he opened a boutique in Tokyo's Marunouchi, and is now active across both France and Japan.
This interview, timed with Mr. Aoki's visit to Japan, was conducted concurrently with the filming of a documentary program, BS Special Series 'First Japanese: Young Pioneers' (see below).
For this first installment of our conversation, we'll be at 'Pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI Paris' Marunouchi store, enjoying Mr. Aoki's signature creations and other delightful sweets.
Concept and Text: Daisuke Hata (City Writes)Photography: Jamandfix
The Taste of Paris, Recreated in Tokyo
Tomoki MatsudaThank you for making time for us during your busy schedule. We're also very grateful for the sweets you've prepared.
Sadaharu AokiNot at all. It's my pleasure.
MatsudaWould you mind explaining each of these sweets to us?
AokiThe éclair in front (Éclair au Matcha) is one of my signature creations. Using French wheat and butter, along with matcha, I've recreated the exact same taste as at our main store in Paris. Another signature creation featuring matcha (Bamboo) was made in 2002 to cheer on the Japanese athletes during the World Athletics Championships.
The French only truly respect those who show reverence for their own culture. And, they won't pay attention unless there's that extra appeal. In that sense, these matcha confections can be considered my 'weapons' for competing in Paris.
MatsudaI've had them several times at your shop in Paris, and the taste is truly identical. Delicious every time. It brings back memories of my time in Paris.
Macarons are also one of your staples, aren't they? Though it might be a naive thought, I consider them to have such a perfect flavor that they can't be improved upon. Are you still refining them?
AokiYes. While the form is set, I do change the texture. Looking at old texts,
I think about how it might have melted on the tongue back then, and strive to bring it closer to perfection. It's less about creating something new and more about my techniques catching up.
The more I pursue it, the more I realize that these simple confections require the most skill. To think that they were already perfected over 200 years ago – our predecessors were truly remarkable.
The crème au beurre filling uses fermented butter from Charentes, France.
At Pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI Paris, Marunouchi store
'Anko' Wins Over Parisians!
AokiPlease do try the croissant with adzuki beans and chocolate (Croissant aux Azuki Chocolat). It's a standard breakfast pastry, but rather than cutting costs because it's an everyday item, I insist on using butter from Charentes. I believe I only offer items that can compete with the discerning Parisians, who dedicate time and effort to their food.
MatsudaHonestly, it's delicious. Forgive my crude expression, but in a word, it's a 'rich flavor'.
AokiThank you. The butter from Charentes and the adzuki beans pair wonderfully. To create this, I learned how to cook adzuki beans at 'Ikkoan,' a renowned shop for adzuki bean confections in Myogadani. When I was pondering how to introduce adzuki beans to Parisians, I tasted a toast at Ikkoan with plenty of butter and adzuki beans, and thought, 'This is it!' The adzuki beans I use in my Japanese shops are cooked by Ikkoan.
However, just like the butter, I'm particular about using French flour. When opening in Japan, I wanted to utilize Japanese ingredients as much as possible, but domestic flour absorbs moisture easily. This makes it impossible to achieve that crisp, shattering texture when you bite into it. While mochi-like textures are preferred for bread in Japan, in France, a crisp, crunchy texture, much like French bread, is favored.
MatsudaYour commitment to not compromising, even when in Japan, is truly admirable. Speaking of which, while 'anko' is familiar to us, were Parisian customers readily accepting of it?
AokiWhen you stay at a good hotel in France, breakfast almost always includes French bread, Charentes butter, and jam. There's that kind of culture, so they naturally accepted adzuki beans as jam. Some people ask, 'Why put sugar in beans?' but once they taste it, they understand.
MatsudaI'm sure they do, because it's truly delicious. ...Am I allowed to just keep eating this? (laughs)
The documentary program following Sadaharu Aoki's daily life as a patissier, BS Special Series
'First Japanese' (NHK BS-1) is scheduled to air on Saturday, August 11th, from 22:10 to 23:00.
Profile
Pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI Paris
Chef Pâtissier Sadaharu Aoki
Born in 1968. From Tokyo. Resides in Paris. After working at 'Chandon' in Aoyama until 1989, he moved to France. Following stints at Paris's 'Jean Millet' and Switzerland's 'Restaurant Girardet,' he served as chef for entremets (whole cakes) at Paris's 'Couderc.' In 1998, he established his atelier in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, and currently has his atelier in the 5th arrondissement.
In 2001, he opened a boutique in the highly competitive 6th arrondissement of Paris, followed by another in the 5th arrondissement in 2003. His pound cakes, lavishly adorned with fruits, and his matcha-infused creations have captivated the palates of discerning Parisians.
He opened a boutique in Tokyo's Marunouchi in 2005, another inside Isetan Shinjuku in 2006, and this past March, a new boutique in Tokyo Midtown.
He is in charge of the Paris branch of the International Department of the All Japan Confectionery Association.
http://www.sadaharuaoki.com/
Patisserie Sadaharu AOKI Paris boutique Marunouchi
Pâtisserie Sadaharu AOKI Paris, Marunouchi Store
1F Shin-Kokusai Bldg., 3-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5293-2800
Hours: 11:00–21:00, Irregular holidays