These are the medallions on a pair of monk straps from "Stollman Telerassi" (founded 1912). The year before United Arrows opened its first store, I bought these at the Stollman Telerassi shop in Florence, intending to wear them myself to include in the initial selection.
With medallions, straps, and a square toe, the design fulfills many of my preferences. It's a typical Italian shape, and I wore them often. They're relatively comfortable, but since they aren't Goodyear welted, you do feel the impact of the ground more compared to those.

United Arrows began by selecting what we considered the best from the US, UK, and Italy. For American suits, it was "Southwick"; for Italy, "Kiton" or "Isaia"; for shirts, "Lorenzini." We already carried various Italian shoes, but "Stollman Telerassi" had been brought to Japan by Paul Stuart during my time at Beams, and I had thought they were fine shoes even then. Italy's appeal, above all, lies in its craftsmanship as a production region, and the presence of its *modellisti*. It's a valuable region for us too, and we're thinking of starting something there...
In the early days, I paired them with "Sovereign" tweed three-button jackets and gray flannel trousers. I wore three-button jackets for a long time, about ten years from around 1983 to 1993, when Armani was at his peak.
(1989 / ¥28,000)

#30 Too Soon to Take Root

BATES / 1982

photo by Jamandfix

Beams had its second store on Fire Street in Shibuya, and when it moved to the former post office site in Jinnan (now BEAMS+), the old space became available. So, we opened the "Tom Altman Shop" to sell the collection of New York vintage collector Thomas Altman.
The merchandise was mainly old stock from the late '50s to early '60s. These are deadstock from "Bates." They're Goodyear welted, lovely shoes that would go well with a linen suit for summer, but I haven't worn them. I keep them as part of my collection.

The "Tom Altman Shop" lasted about a year, I think. They just didn't sell well (laughs). Come to think of it, in the '80s, '60s items didn't sell. For vintage, only things like "Levi's 501s" sold. Thomas Altman himself was incredibly like Beams (laughs).

After that, we created what's now called an outlet shop, called "Thrifty Mart." It was positioned as a bargain shop. In America, there's a type of store called a thrift shop where people bring and sell used items, and I thought that was a great culture. However, we closed it after about two or three years of operation, around '85. It was too soon; it just couldn't take root (laughs).
(1982 / ¥20,000)