#3 How to Finish Your Outfit from the Feet Up

Russell Moccasin / 1996

photo by Jamandfix

This was about 10 years ago. Like my Alden shoes at the time, I bought these as a "chunky" item to wear with slim pants in a kitschy way. They're from a factory in Maine that carries on the history of moccasins as the history of hand-sewing, from a time when American design and manufacturing were excellent. Sadly, I don't think they have factories in the US anymore.
I sourced these myself and they were also sold in the store. I wore them frequently. They're a bit heavy, but comfortable.
These are rooted in our fashion heritage, traditional style, or what we call "Trad" in Japan. I like to wear them with relaxed, unstructured jackets and, whenever possible, with slacks.

I think most men, once they establish their style, don't deviate much. But I'm exceptionally rare in that I'm a novelty seeker, so my style shifts dramatically. My wardrobe changes completely depending on my mood. I discard clothes without hesitation, which is why I don't have many left. But my shoes remain. I just didn't throw them away (laughs).
When I put on clothes from the past, I find myself amusing and can't go out. I think that's the best thing for a clothing store owner. You have to embrace newness to present the next thing. But with shoes, there's a sentiment from when I bought them, so I can't part with them. I still buy about 10 pairs on average each year.
(1996 / Price probably late 40,000 yen)

#4 The Year After International Gallery Beams Opened

GRENSON / 1982

photo by Jamandfix

These are sharkskin monkey boots from GRENSON, from around 1982, during my mid-Beams period. They're English shoes, but they have an elegance to them.
The first time I saw monkey boots was at a select shop called Browns in London. I saw them on a business trip in '80, ordered them in Japan in '81, and they were finished in '82. This was a special order with the upper leather replaced. Monkey boots were a standard item we carried at Beams.

Starting from the preppy style of the time, moving into NY fashion, and with Ralph Lauren beginning to rise, I became interested in products with a European elegant feel. In '81, International Gallery Beams opened. At the time, I was the General Manager of the Apparel Division, and the first store manager of the Gallery was Tetsuya Iwaki, the current Representative Director and President of United Arrows.
1981 was around the time Beams finally started generating stable profits. International Gallery, which could express European styles, was established. Beams focused on American casual, Beams F handled American Traditional and English Traditional clothing, and the balance was finally achieved.

I haven't worn these monkey boots much. GRENSON shoes have a stiff break-in period and are generally not very comfortable. Back then, influenced by Katsuhiko Kitamura's styling, I used to pair athletic shoes or work boots with gray flannel pants. I also wore these boots with white jeans and a tweed jacket.
(1982 / Price around 50,000 yen at the time)