#7 The Epitome of Italian Craftsmanship

ROSSETTI/1973

photo by Jamandfix

This was in 1973, my first year out of university, when I was 23. I bought these shoes at Futabaya in Ginza for a then-hefty 80,000 yen.

The early 70s saw the rise of London pop, but elegant citywear was dominated by Saint Laurent and Renoma. I was browsing L'UOMO VOGUE and saw an advertisement for these shoes. They seemed to be samples for a fashion show; there was evidence of tape being removed from the sole, and they were the only pair available. Luckily, my size fit perfectly. I couldn't wear them now, though; they're too small.
Back then, we wore shoes like bound feet, didn't we? They were slender with heels, very much of the 70s. I've always liked combinations and broguing since around this time (laughs). I also owned a pair of wine-red shoes from Tanino Crisci from the same period, which were full brogues. I truly loved shoes like these.

After graduating, I worked in sales for a women's apparel company for three years. People often ask me why I started in women's fashion, but I grew up with imported goods. At the time, I didn't find anything I liked in men's clothing.
I applied to many companies. World was doing 'World Coordinate,' a full-coordinate knit fashion, and their products were exceptionally high quality. I also interviewed with knitwear maker Caravan, as well as Szuya, Hanae Mori, and Onward, but I was rejected by all of them. I ended up joining a small apparel company in Kanda, recommended by my school.
It was around the time that condominium manufacturers were emerging. This apparel company originated from an old fabric wholesaler in Iwamotocho, but they decided that the future lay in condominium wholesaling and opened an office in Harajuku. I was assigned there and started commuting to Jingumae. It was purely by chance that I was posted to Harajuku.

By 1973, I had already visited America several times. However, I had never been to Europe and had no opportunity to go. Seeing L'UOMO VOGUE, I thought, 'How beautiful!' These Italian-made shoes were the crystallization of my aspirations. This is when my fascination with Europe began. Back then, only those who went to Europe for buying trips or Japanese designers attending fabric exhibitions could travel there.
At that time, the few stores in Tokyo selling imported European shoes were, among the branded ones, San Motoyama, Futabaya in Ginza, and one more in Daikanyama's Hillside Terrace. That last one sold very stylish, cutting-edge footwear.

I had the soles replaced multiple times to keep wearing these. Back then, wearing something like this made you look like a professor (laughs). My attire was almost the same as it is now, with gray flannel suits. I often wore 'Cento Fonte,' a brand from Ueno Iryo that emulated Saint Laurent and Renoma. They used imported fabrics and the designs, like the concave lapels and wide lapels, were exact copies. That's what made them feel most like imported goods. I conducted business wearing those with a shirt and scarf.

My feelings from that era are still very strong; nothing has surpassed the elegance of Saint Laurent since. I believe there will never be a revival of Saint Laurent.
Actually, I do like Tom Ford. So, when Tom Ford took over Saint Laurent, I was very pleased. However, because Tom Ford's own creations bore such a strong resemblance to Saint Laurent's existing products, they weren't particularly successful as Saint Laurent pieces.
(1973 / 80,000 yen)