25th and 26th pairs
#25 & 26: A GUCCI Devotee
GUCCI / 1985

photo by Jamandfix
I bought these at Gucci's Florence flagship store around 1985 for ¥88,000. They were quite expensive! (laughs)
Why did I want Gucci bits? I'd heard from Yoichi Hori of 'Men's Club' that in the 60s, Ivy League students would go to Miami for the winter, buy bits at the Gucci shop there, and wear them barefoot. This was around the time International Gallery opened. For me, it was part of a preppy aesthetic, but it marked the beginning of a long history with bit loafers.
At the time, Gucci produced shoes in about four different factories, each with its own characteristics that you could discern by looking. These were relatively comfortable to wear.
At Beams F, we carried Italian shirts, cut-and-sew items, and knitwear. I started buying in Europe around '78. I was the only buyer back then. I worked alone until '85 or '86, and then I brought other buyers with me. I also left designer selections to Hirofumi Kurino (currently Executive Vice President of United Arrows).
In 1987, we opened the Beams London office. Terry Ellis, a Jamaican who worked at a London select shop, handled product development there, and I would visit to place orders. At the time, there were only four ways to source products: trade shows, fashion shows, what was in stores, and what was trending on the street. If we saw something in stores and ordered the same item, we'd be a season behind. But by gaining the same perspective as overseas select shops through Ellis, we were consistently half a season ahead. That was our competitive edge. Ellis was a very stylish guy, very Beams-like in his styling. He could pull off both dressy and casual looks. We started 'World WIDE SELECTION' at International Gallery with the idea of curating items they selected. Later, 'WWS' expanded into womenswear as well.
(1985 / ¥88,000)
GUCCI / 1999

photo by Jamandfix
These are the Gucci-patterned bit loafers I had always wanted. I bought them in Paris, but I've barely worn them. They're lined, which makes them stiff and inflexible, so they're difficult to wear.
I'm fond of monograms; I also own Louis Vuitton monogram scarves and handkerchiefs. I suppose I'm drawn to crests and emblems.
(1999 / Around ¥40,000)