Exploring the Allure of Kodo: Part 4
Fashion
March 9, 2015

Exploring the Allure of Kodo: Part 4


Exploring the Charms of Kodo: An Interview with Yoshihiro Inasaka
Part 4: Quietly Intoxicated by the Essence of Japanese Fragrance


photo by Emiko Fukuda





Kneaded incense within "Koraku-an"



The World of Incense Wood: Akin to Vintage Wine



Yoshida TokihitoKyara has such an indescribable aroma, doesn't it? When you say "Japanese fragrance," what kinds of things come to mind?

Yoshihiro InasakaThe raw materials for Japanese incense are, first, "Jinko," with Kyara at its pinnacle. Then there's "Byakudan" from Indonesia, with the finest quality originating from India. These are the "incense wood" types. Beyond that, there are "Kampo herbs and crude drugs" used as raw materials for medicines, incense, and fragrances, numbering in the dozens, including well-known ones like cinnamon, cloves, and star anise. There are also resinous materials from shrubs in the northeastern African and Arabian Peninsula regions, such as "Nyu-ko" (frankincense) and "Motsu-yaku" (myrrh).

YoshidaWhat about animal-derived fragrances?

InasakaMusk and ambergris are used only in very small amounts, as a subtle accent.

YoshidaIs that so?

Learn from Yasuko Yoshioka _2



InasakaNippon Kodo's new product, "Seiun Amore," is unique, featuring an Italian designer and including Shuntaro Tanikawa's poem "Love." It incorporates ambergris as a key ingredient to evoke feelings of love, providing both peace of mind and a sense of excitement. While shaped like an incense stick, it's designed to be burned as a room fragrance.



YoshidaThere are so many types of incense sticks. How long have traditional incense sticks been around?

InasakaThe current form of incense sticks is surprisingly recent, dating back to the Edo period, about 400 years ago. Before that, incense was in the form of chopped burning incense or kneaded incense in pill form.


Inside the "Kohju" store



YoshidaCould you explain the different shapes?

InasakaWhat everyone calls "stick" incense has the characteristic of good combustion efficiency and even scent diffusion. The cone-shaped type, where the burning surface area increases as it burns, is suitable for perfuming a large space in a short time. Spiral incense, on the other hand, is designed for long burning times. Incidentally, the length of a single stick is almost uniform across the country, which is said to have been determined by the time it takes to recite one volume of Buddhist sutras.

YoshidaI see, that's easy to understand.



InasakaIn our shop, we don't just sell products; we explain the effects and images that these items bring to the mind. For incense, there's a vast range, from supermarket products at 38 yen for two bundles to handmade, top-quality incense at our Kohju store, priced at 210,000 yen for a bundle of 60 sticks. Ultimately, it comes down to what the customer is seeking.


Learn from Yasuko Yoshioka _2


YoshidaIt's similar to vintage wine versus house wine, isn't it? And fine cigars too. Do the methods of diffusing fragrance differ as well?

InasakaIncense sticks are designed to release their fragrance as they burn, while traditional incense is carefully blended so that the aroma lingers after it has completely burned.

YoshidaThat certainly requires professionals, doesn't it?

InasakaYes, the chief perfumer at Nippon Kodo's (Kohju's) research institute is someone who previously served as the director of a fragrance manufacturer's research lab. He mentioned that in his later years, he wanted to explore Japanese fragrances, something he hadn't worked with before. Many also have experience as perfumers in France early in their careers, eventually finding their way to Japanese traditions. It's those who haven't come from a background of incense sticks who can create unexpected new worlds within the realm of Japanese fragrance.



YoshidaI also think it would be wonderful to be able to wear Japanese scents daily. I'd like to focus on Japanese aesthetics not only in the fragrances but also in the packaging. When perfume creation becomes more concrete, I would definitely like to ask the perfumers about fragrance blending. Thank you for your time.

End