Learning from Hiromi Kobayashi - Part 3

Last time, we learned the proper way to apply perfume, and I realized that this kind of how-to information, while of course needing product details, should be communicated correctly. Especially for us men, who are prone to misunderstanding and misconception, we tend to interpret movie scenes or novel phrases in our own way. We should learn more about things that are obvious to women. (Yoshida Tokihito)

Why We Come to Dislike Scents

YoshidaWhen you say your nose gets desensitized, I remember many women in department store elevators used to reek from five meters away.

KobayashiWhen you keep using the same scent, your nose starts demanding more and more intensity. This can lead to the scent permeating your clothes, creating a boiled-down aroma, and you lose the freshness of a just-applied fragrance. That's why it's actually important to have a few favorite scents and switch between them.

YoshidaI see, so that's how you prevent your nose from becoming desensitized.

KobayashiExactly. Even if you like it, if it makes others pinch their nose, it goes against the etiquette of fragrance. I often say or write, 'Perfume is the foundation of one's style.'

YoshidaAre there any rules for this foundation?

KobayashiThe most fundamental rule is not to meet anyone for 20 minutes after applying perfume.

YoshidaWhy 20 minutes?

photo by IDEGUCHI Keiko

KobayashiFor the first 20 minutes after application, it's called the 'top note,' where the alcohol scent is most pungent and various fragrance notes jostle for attention. The perfumer's true expression of the scent emerges in the 'middle note,' which lasts for about two hours after that initial 20 minutes. The top note is created to stabilize the middle note, to achieve that desired scent.

YoshidaAnd after two hours?

KobayashiThen comes the 'last note,' where the balance gradually fades, creating what is known as the lingering scent.

YoshidaSo, spraying perfume right before a date in the powder room is the wrong approach, isn't it? (laughs)

KobayashiThat's right. (laughs) When going out, it's best to apply it while you're still in your underwear. Then, by the time you're dressed and ready to leave, the alcohol has evaporated. Spraying it at the entrance just before leaving means it will be strong on the train or at the station.

YoshidaAre there any other easy application methods?

KobayashiIf you're using a spray, you can simply spray it upwards in an arch and then walk through the mist.

Kobayashi's Recommended Perfumes...

YoshidaWhat are you wearing today, Kobayashi-san?

KobayashiToday, I'm using L'Occitane's aromatherapy shampoo. It's very popular with women right now; the scent of three herbs lingers all day. For evening outings, I use Dior's 'DUNE' or Jennifer Lopez's 'JLO.' I have hundreds of favorite perfumes at home.

YoshidaMen are generally rather lazy. How about, for example, adding your favorite essence to shampoo?

KobayashiThat's certainly possible. For instance, you could add a fragrant essence to hair cream and apply it to your ends. It's good for your hair, the scent lasts, and it's a win-win. Carrying that around could also be a good idea.

photo by IDEGUCHI Keiko

YoshidaAs we talk, I realize how truly difficult it is to describe scents in words.

KobayashiThat's why, as you mentioned, Yoshida-san, I believe there's potential in fragrances that focus on specific points in our lifestyle, like scents for wearing with a suit, or choosing scents based on time or situation.

YoshidaJapan, fundamentally, has a very weak dress code. I don't believe Japan has a clothing culture. For a long time, there was the attitude of 'Clothes? For a man...?' The meaning of dressing up, or how fashion contributes socially, has been completely hollowed out. Consequently, men's fragrances are still stuck with the fixed notion of being overly ornate.

KobayashiIt's the same for women, you know. When I talk a little about perfume, people tend to think I'm quite knowledgeable.

YoshidaFor men, appeals that include a bit of emotional context, like 'this is good for boosting your confidence,' work well. Therefore, the ideal scenario would be to create one's own original scent—perhaps by visiting a store where a perfumer can blend fragrances for you—a personalized custom scent...

KobayashiI believe such services are possible. I've been thinking about a scent that would suit you, Yoshida-san, and the British heritage brand Jo Malone has a wonderful fragrance.

YoshidaWhat kind of scent is it?

KobayashiThe scent itself isn't heavy, but it has a sense of depth. It's distinctive yet classic. I highly recommend it for stylish men who appreciate fragrance.