The Message Within the Lookbook

While considering the styling for this season, which prominently features fabrics from “FOX BROTHERS,” I was struck by how intently Tsuyoshi Nimura repeatedly studied the Autumn/Winter 2014 lookbook.

“When styling suits, I focus on bringing out the brand’s inherent character without compromising it. For Margaret Howell, I want to emphasize the moderate boxiness and the silhouette without a dropped shoulder.

Even with a set, I’ve tried layering sweaters this time, pairing a suit with a crewneck sweater for a sporty, youthful impression, rather than just a shirt and tie. I also paired round-collar shirts to avoid a stiff collar, and by carefully observing and feeling Margaret Howell’s message for this season as conveyed in the lookbook, I find it interesting to show how one can play with the rules of suiting, like making subtle changes to the collar, and breaking them.”

The Key to Looking Stylish with Minimal Effort

Nimura describes this season’s “Margaret Howell × Fox Brothers” collection as “a modern interpretation of the rich, British textures by Margaret Howell.”

“Looking at the color combinations in the glen check, for example, it feels like Margaret Howell’s thoughtful approach, developed through close communication with the traditional Fox Brothers, is evident.

A brand’s ‘identity’ is crucial. The suits made with Fox Brothers fabric possess a sense of masculinity, softness, and ease of movement, all translated into a contemporary silhouette. This balance is very current and, combined with the materials, is superb.

When wearing a suit, it’s best to keep the styling simple for a clean look. Margaret Howell’s suits, in particular, look more classic if you don’t fuss over the tie dimple and instead choose a tie with a different tone from the suit. By leveraging the colors and textures, a minimalist approach will allow you to better enjoy Howell’s take on modern British minimalism.

This season, I’ve also focused on creating looks that are classic yet not overly formal, such as pairing a jacket with jeans, a mod coat with slacks, or a Barbour jacket with chinos. The key is to achieve a balanced coordination, ensuring a jacket doesn’t feel too stiff, a mod coat isn’t too soft, and the overall tones are harmonious.”

Reflections from a Return to Paris

When asked about his fashion journey, Nimura recalls his university days, starting with Shibuya casual and American casual styles, then adopting a skater look with baggy jeans and nylon outerwear in Ura-Harajuku. He later moved on to designer brands like A.P.C., Costume National, and Helmut Lang, humorously admitting to wearing corduroy suit sets and all-black outfits.

“From there, I went through an old-school American casual phase with bootcut jeans, Western boots, and women’s shirts from Brooks Brothers paired with Hermès scarves, and then a psychedelic phase with flare jeans and women’s shirts from Emilio Pucci and Missoni, before settling into my current simple, casual style.

Recently, I’ve been traveling to New York regularly for work. It was my first time in Paris in a while, but I noticed many people wearing black or navy slacks with white Stan Smiths, and I was particularly influenced by women’s fashion there.

New York is undeniably more interesting when it comes to fashion derived from subcultures; I’m drawn to the way people in New York express themselves and assert their individuality to gain recognition. In contrast, France, without that overt assertion, has a sophisticated way of casually dressing up classic pieces, a refined yet relaxed sensibility. It was very inspiring and informative.”

Anglobal
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