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Hidetoshi Nakata Faces John Lobb's Artisans | JOHN LOBB

Fashion

February 9, 2015

Hidetoshi Nakata Faces John Lobb's Artisans | JOHN LOBB

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François orders custom zori at Gion Naihō (3)

"Zori are footwear that create a space," says Seiji Naitō, the fifth-generation master of Gion Naihō. "Japan has a culture of removing shoes indoors, and seeing zori at the entrance tells you the purpose of the visit, and who is the main guest today. Therefore, we don't impose our preferences, but rather listen to who will wear them and when, and then we make our suggestions. If you want them for a formal occasion, we will craft them to be suitable, and the customer will also feel a sense of wanting to cherish them carefully."

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François orders custom zori at Gion Naihō (2)

This Kyoto visit was realized through the unique vision of Hidetoshi Nakata, who, through his journey across Japan's 47 prefectures, rediscovered the country's world-class craftsmanship and culture. He aimed to create a new encounter by acting as an intermediary between the artisans of John Lobb, who craft the world's finest shoes, and Seiji Naitō of Gion Naihō, who makes Japan's finest zori.

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François orders custom zori at Gion Naihō (1)

The foot measurement at Kyoto's Gion Naihō, visited by John Lobb's Master Last Maker François Madozini and Hidetoshi Nakata, is a crucial preparation for the dialogue between customer and artisan. From this measurement emerges a fit that makes the sole of the foot feel as if it's 'intoxicated'—François, who usually measures customers' feet, is now on the other side, placing his bare foot on the measuring stand.

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François orders custom zori at Gion Naihō (4)

The meeting between French and Japanese artisans, facilitated by Hidetoshi Nakata, is finally realized. The day after his bespoke order event in Osaka, François Madozini, John Lobb's Master Last Maker, visited Gion Naihō, a venerable Kyoto establishment renowned for its traditional footwear. It was François's first visit to Kyoto, and he was warmly welcomed by Seiji Naitō, the fifth-generation master.

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Hidetoshi Nakata visits the Trion Paris atelier (1)

John Lobb crafted shoes for the Prince of Wales in 1863, opened a store in London in 1866, expanded to Paris in 1902, and joined the Hermès Group in 1976. While the ready-to-wear factory is located in Northampton, England, all bespoke orders are meticulously crafted in the Paris atelier.

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Hidetoshi Nakata visits the Trion Paris atelier (2)

John Lobb has been creating bespoke shoes for over 150 years. This traditional craftsmanship continues to be passed down not only in bespoke creations but also in their ready-to-wear collections. Notably, a single pair of bespoke shoes requires approximately 50 hours of dedicated work from the highly skilled artisans at the atelier located at 32 Rue Mogador in Paris.

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The "Trion" fitting at the Paris bespoke atelier (1)

The scene shifts from Tokyo to Paris. At John Lobb's bespoke atelier at 32 Rue Mogador in the heart of Paris, the fitting (basting) for Hidetoshi Nakata's bespoke "Trion" shoes took place. This occurred about two months after the measurements were taken in Japan. While this is a considerably earlier stage than usual for bespoke, it was made possible by Nakata's expressed wish to "see the Paris bespoke atelier" and by coordinating schedules.

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The "Trion" fitting at the Paris bespoke atelier (2)

At John Lobb's bespoke atelier in central Paris, the fitting for Hidetoshi Nakata's bespoke "Trion" shoes was conducted. Wearing the basted "Trion" shoes created according to the fitting, Nakata meticulously checked them from various angles. Finally, he requested "black stitching," successfully completing the "Trion" process.

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Hidetoshi Nakata confronts John Lobb's artisans (Measurement 1)

After retiring from his professional career, Hidetoshi Nakata embarked on a three-year journey, visiting over 150 cities in approximately 90 countries. He then launched "ReVALUE NIPPON," a project to explore Japan. Through his travels, witnessing the meticulous work of artisans firsthand, Nakata rediscovered Japan's world-class craftsmanship and culture. He decided to pursue bespoke (fully custom-made shoes) from John Lobb, a brand he had long been interested in, believing that "the essence of craftsmanship is the same, regardless of the place."

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Hidetoshi Nakata confronts John Lobb's artisans (Measurement 2)

François Madozini, John Lobb's Master Last Maker, quickly understood the unique characteristic of Hidetoshi Nakata's left big toe bone, as he himself had a similar concern. After the measurements were completed, the next step was to decide on the design. For this bespoke order, Nakata expressed his desire for "a refined loafer that would pair well with jeans."

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Hidetoshi Nakata confronts John Lobb's artisans (Measurement 3)

François Madozini holds the esteemed title of "Master Last Maker," a distinction held by only three individuals among the approximately 20 artisans at the John Lobb Paris bespoke atelier. He visits Japan three times a year for the "Bespoke Order Meetings."

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Hidetoshi Nakata confronts John Lobb's artisans (Measurement 4)

The bespoke measurement at the John Lobb Marunouchi store was completed. Hidetoshi Nakata requested, "Could the fitting be done at the Paris workshop? I want to see the John Lobb workshop and meet the artisans in person." He also expressed interest in François Madozini, John Lobb's Master Last Maker, stating, "I want to play a role in connecting him with Japanese artisans."

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp

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