Rintaro Tanaka | Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Second Half)
Fashion
March 13, 2015

Rintaro Tanaka | Excuse My Trash! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Second Half)


Series | Rintaro Tanaka


Excuse My Trash ! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Part 2)


PreviousFollowing up on our last installment, we bring you the second part of our interview with Rintaro Tanaka, conducted on the occasion of the release of "King of Vintage Vol.3."
Larry McKoin, the "King of Vintage," reigns supreme in the vintage clothing world by mastering vintage pieces from eras prior to the Fifties. Our conversation delves into an analysis of the current vintage clothing market, American history, and societal trends, ultimately leading to the secrets behind Larry's "strength."


Photos by Rintaro TanakaInterview by Toranosuke Takeuchi (City Lights)



The popularity of vintage clothing from earlier eras reflects Americans' yearning for "humble" values.



Earlier (in the previous installment), you mentioned that the popularity of old America is, in fact, an antithesis to the Fifties, which led to modern America. I found that to be a very sharp analysis.

In recent years, Americans have begun using the word "humble" quite frequently. In Japanese, it translates to "simplicity" or "integrity," but for them, it represents "lost virtues." I believe the high popularity of vintage clothing from before the 1940s stems from a strong desire to return to that era.

Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage, 2


Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage, 3



So that's the background. If America were to truly reclaim "humble" values, could society revive?

Unfortunately, I don't think it can go back. America is a country where defining what constitutes "American" is incredibly difficult. Unlike Japan, its culture isn't built on a single, unified foundation, and manufacturing has largely moved elsewhere. At its core, I believe the ingenuity of Americans lies in their innovative thinking. Things that are born from a spontaneous burst of creativity can now be produced cheaply in China and sold. If one were to try and produce them in America at a higher cost, they likely wouldn't sell. Therefore, the inability to return to "humble" values is a consequence of the societal structure not being designed for it.

In other words, "humble" isn't their tradition, but rather a chapter in the making of America.

Even the westward expansion, which occurred during the era when "humble" values were prevalent, couldn't have been achieved through "humble" spirit alone; it required aggressiveness. Interestingly, even today, if you have people from the East Coast and West Coast playing poker, those from the West Coast tend to be more aggressive. When they go on the offensive, they do so decisively. Cultures symbolizing American aggressiveness, like surfing and skateboarding, all originated on the West Coast, particularly California. Computers and other innovations also stem from this Californian spirit of aggressiveness, which has indeed driven the evolution of American society. Thus, I believe modern American society and "humble" values are often incompatible.




Series | Rintaro Tanaka


Excuse My Trash ! "King Of Vintage Vol.3" (Part 2)




I believe I've successfully captured Larry's "aggressive" approach.


I see. So, precisely because they can't go back, the vintage clothing from the "humble" era is gaining traction.

Exactly. Larry often uses the word "humble." Influenced by his grandfather, he has a tangible understanding of the world of "humble." "Heller's Cafe" itself is named after his grandfather's cafe, and he has inherited that legacy, albeit in a different form and location. He truly loves the word "humble." However, he also observes the mentality of his own generation and that of his 13-year-old son, so he understands that a return to "humble" is not possible.

He recognizes that a return to "humble" is impossible, and furthermore, he doesn't let it remain mere nostalgia but weaponizes it. He truly is an extraordinary individual.

In a good way, this book has managed to showcase the "greed" of Americans. While the pursuit of wealth is often frowned upon in Japan, greed isn't necessarily negative for Americans. Especially in artistic fields like high-end vintage clothing, being purely virtuous isn't enough to be interesting. It needs that element of "Wow, that's bold!" Larry himself is a very serious person, so he doesn't operate solely on intuition; he conducts his business with great earnestness. Conversely, it's precisely because he "aggressively" pursues his goals with such seriousness that he is so formidable. He's like a professional gambler. That's his talent. Others are too timid to sit at the same high-stakes table as him.

Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage, 5


Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage, 6



Why is Larry able to be so aggressive without hesitation?

That's his career. With the best merchandise and a dedication that brings him to Tokyo every two months, he has cultivated strong relationships. On the other hand, as I mentioned earlier, when he decides to take a gamble, he goes all in. The balance between this meticulousness and boldness is truly indicative of someone who has mastered the "high roller" game. I believe this book has effectively captured those qualities of his.

Indeed. Looking at the vintage clothing featured, it's not just that they are old; they evoke a sense of "I want this now!" that resonates with the current mood. That's why one can readily accept that each piece is likely not inexpensive. This ability to naturally convince viewers is perhaps what makes him a true high roller.

Precisely. The items featured in this book are, of course, all different from those in Vol. 1, but they weren't discarded from Vol. 1. Most of them were likely acquired after Vol. 1 was published. I doubt anyone other than Larry could afford to purchase such expensive items so readily. In that sense, I'm truly glad we could publish this book featuring him now.

Hearing your insights today has made the content seem even richer. With upcoming events like "Inspiration 2012" in February and "My Freedamn! Vol.10" scheduled for next spring, anticipation is high. Thank you very much for your time today.

Thank you as well.

Rintaro Tanaka, King of Vintage, Queen of Vintage, 7




King of Vintage No.3: "Heller’s Cafe: Part 2"
Price | ¥5,250
Size | H307 × W232 mm
Weight | Approx. 1 kg