From Friday, October 16 to Tuesday, November 3, 2020, MEDICOM TOY will host its pop-up event "AKASHIC RECORDS" at "POP BY JUN" on the first floor of Shibuya PARCO. This event shines a spotlight on the collaboration between the art unit "MAMES," whose solo exhibition "Destiny Land" was recently held this spring, and the cutting-edge fashion brand "amok." To understand how they collaborated, we conducted an email interview with chami from MAMES and Yuki Oshima, the designer of amok, to hear their thoughts on this project.

MAMES
Born and based in Tokyo. Formed in 2005 by Kentaro Shirakawa and chami. They are artists active worldwide, primarily in Japan. They express the world as they see it through various mediums including painting, photography, spray art, ink wash painting, and three-dimensional works.

amok
Established in 2015 by designer Yuki Oshima. The first collection was presented at an exhibition for the 2015-16 Autumn/Winter season. The brand's concept is "To break down the good old things and design clothes that resonate with the deep emotions of humanity using new techniques."

Yuki Oshima, who launched his brand "amok" in 2014, first shared his inspiration for becoming a designer and the process of establishing the brand.

OshimaI've loved clothes since high school and used to take apart vintage items. I was particularly drawn to 90s culture and had a vague idea of wanting to become a designer.

After entering vocational school, I was highly motivated to learn clothing creation and, through various challenges, developed an interest in patternmaking. Fortunately, while still a student, I was able to intern as a patternmaker's assistant at "MIHARAYASUHIRO," and before graduation, I was even earning wages as a part-time employee. At the time, I was the youngest, and thanks to the guidance of Mr. Mihara and all the seniors, I learned everything from pattern basics to apparel in general. I still have many people I'm indebted to.

After moving to "ANREALAGE," I gained immense experience as a chief patternmaker under Mr. Morinaga's creative direction, working on Tokyo Collections, Paris Collections, exhibitions, and costume production, which gave me confidence.

The experience at both brands, not only as a patternmaker but also in terms of garment construction, knowledge, and how to approach fixed ideas, all connect to my present and form my foundation. This led to a strong desire to start my own brand using the knowledge and ideas I cultivated, which ultimately led to my independence.

The brand name is derived from Oshima's favorite word, "Anmokuchi" (tacit knowledge), which refers to knowledge based on experience and intuition. The brand's concept is "Onko Chishin" (learning from the past to understand the present). The starting point for its creation was the desire to "mix new techniques and processing" while deconstructing and reconstructing vintage clothing.

OshimaI aim to create clothing that transcends time by breaking down and reconstructing universal details, techniques, and designs built by predecessors. While there are countless ways to make clothes within established methods, I believe there are infinite possibilities if we approach clothing creation from a completely different perspective. I want to create clothing with a sense of dissonance that transcends eras, based on details and items passed down through generations, using new and high technologies.

The brand's strength lies in creating new things every season through trial and error with artisans. Mr. Omura and Mr. Kojima from the laser cutting workshop, whom we've worked with since the brand's inception, and Mr. Tanaka from the embroidery workshop, whom we started working with for the 2017 Autumn/Winter Collection "BORDERLINE." We ask them to create increasingly advanced clothing each season. For laser cutting, we request various challenges beyond simple cutting, such as bonding with welding techniques and processing using Velcro. Regarding our signature 3D embroidery, we've evolved from using a single base fabric to layering about 30 pieces of fabric for a single garment. They are also exploring new embroidery methods each season as they continue to evolve. In that sense, the 2017 Autumn/Winter Collection feels like the foundation of the current brand.

This amok x MAMES apparel line began when Mr. Akashi, a fashion enthusiast himself, met Mr. Oshima at the fashion trade show "PROJECT TOKYO" and proposed a collaboration with MAMES to both parties. Tatsuhiko Akashi, President and CEO of MEDICOM TOY and curator of "AKASHIC RECORDS," shares his thoughts on their encounter.

AkashiI saw amok's clothing at a fashion event called "PROJECT TOKYO" last year and found it interesting. We exchanged business cards and talked about doing something together. Later, a POPUP SHOP was decided for Shibuya PARCO, and I believe amok was also looking for new developments.

Regarding MAMES, we collaborated on an exhibition called "Destiny Land" at Shibuya PARCO 2G this spring, and they expressed interest in working on apparel next. I thought it might be interesting to connect these two points, which led to the planning of this collaboration.

OshimaMEDICOM TOY is a pioneer in various cultures, and their balance between business and creation is excellent. I had always wanted to work with them someday.

When amok exhibited at "PROJECT TOKYO" last year, Mr. Akashi ordered a set-up from me. He had also purchased amok clothing at his shop before, so I was very happy. While keeping in touch through exhibition invitations, I received the offer for this collaboration. The progress of the collaboration project was excellent, with MAMES's worldview and amok's techniques and designs being well integrated and presented, resulting in a great design and worldview.

Meanwhile, MAMES, the collaborator, was immediately captivated by amok's previous collections.

chami (MAMES)Their love for clothes and ideas are truly wonderful. I believe they are "people with insatiable curiosity and passion, who love clothes and are loved by clothes." During our meetings, they brought out their past collections. It was impressive how they laid out a vast amount of work and explained each piece meticulously. Their overwhelming individuality, instantly recognizable as amok, and their ability to communicate through clothing are also remarkable. With such dedication, I feel like I've bought a memorable, good piece of clothing when I wear it myself.

When I was in high school, I used to collect Western vintage clothes and fabrics. I loved the stories of each era and the feeling of connecting with unknown people around the world who shared the same sensibility. I would hold up a scratched 60s French earring to the small light filtering through the window and imagine someone I'd never met. I believe amok's clothes will become such a presence.

One of my definitions of "art" is "something that doesn't bore," and what is truly authentic is something that remains wonderful and deepens in flavor over time. amok also uses vintage fabrics in some of their works, and the "NEWOLD" collection is one of my favorites. Mr. Oshima himself is a very gentle and wonderful person, and I have the image of him as "a passionate person with firm convictions" that goes hand-in-hand with a punk spirit.

Mr. Oshima also resonated with the unique worldview created by MAMES.

OshimaI was simply excited to be able to create something together. I particularly like MAMES's stencil art, and I felt their "ART or TRASH" worldview would be incorporated, creating a good chemical reaction with amok's "Onko Chishin." We had many points of mutual attraction during our direct meetings, and we were able to create with enjoyment, which I am very satisfied with.

Also, I have personally loved Anne Valerie Dupond for a long time, and I was shocked by "BUTTON," her collaboration with MAMES.

As Mr. Oshima mentioned, the reinterpretation of MAMES's representative work "BUTTON" by French textile sculptor Anne Valerie Dupond at MAMES's solo exhibition "Destiny Land" held at 2G this spring also garnered significant attention.

chamiDuring the production, I repeatedly felt that although amok and MAMES have different methods of output, they resonate at a fundamental level. We brought new ideas to each other and clashed seriously many times. I feel we built a relationship of trust because we were able to naturally create something good with sincerity while respecting each other's identities.

The production period for this project spans from just before the COVID-19 outbreak, through the state of emergency, to the present.
The theme is "Clothes We Want Now"

Clothes filled with "hope" no matter the circumstances. Believing that anything imagined can be achieved gives "courage." Clothes that allow us to overcome any "adversity." We want such clothes. Therefore, I wanted to bring MAMES's concept of "ART or TRASH" to life.

For example, it's more fun if the hem gets torn from repeated wear. Or if the jacquard frays, it adds character. It becomes tasteful without worrying about its condition. Clothes that can be worn for a long time. Something that becomes best when worn to the point of being "ART or TRASH." Mr. Oshima understood these difficult demands and translated them into wonderful designs. Since works are made by "people," it's something only Mr. Oshima can do. Things only Mr. Oshima can notice. I believe amok is built upon such accumulations. I am happy every day, realizing anew, "It's the best to create something that doesn't exist in the world."

As mentioned several times so far, the concept of "ART or TRASH," spun from their memories, is extremely important in defining MAMES.

chamiEssentially, the worldview of MAMES's works is what I see through my eyes. "Imagination and reality," and "dreams and nightmares." Flies have jewel eyes, and trash looks like a castle. Humorous yet slightly scary dolls come to life and welcome you. I was worried if Mr. Oshima would be taken aback when I told him, but he nodded deeply at my words, sometimes laughing, and thought about various ways to express them.

In our conversations, we eventually arrived at MAMES's identity: "ART or TRASH." I wanted to further expand on this image with amok, who embraces "Onko Chishin" and has gone through "NEWOLD."

I grew up in a somewhat rough neighborhood in Tokyo. I used to make things out of various trash I found there and ponder my thoughts. I would draw on discarded clothes, put on fashion shows with spray paint, make dolls from rags and film movies, and build haunted houses. In the world seen through my filter, even incomplete things with holes were spread out as perfect, wonderful, and enjoyable, full of hope for the future. And sometimes, I would write invitations on dirty paper. "Please come, I have something new." Well, nobody ever came (laughs).

I've been doing things like that since childhood without change. Recently, I made a new envelope for MAMES and sent it to Mr. Akashi. It was meant as an invitation to a mysterious world. Then he suggested, "Chami, why not make this a tag?" At that moment, everything clicked. Clothes with invitations. A collection called "ART or TRASH." "When a miracle happens in a dream (or nightmare) and becomes reality." That is the keyword and concept for this project.

Here, Mr. Oshima explains the design concept for the amok x MAMES apparel line (TEE, KNIT, SWEATSHIRTS, SHIRTS, JACKET, MASK) created for this collaboration.

OshimaWe carefully considered the concepts of MAMES and Mr. Akashi for each item and combined them with amok's techniques, so I am very satisfied with every piece.

Among them, the two types of embroidery series, "DESTINY LAND" and "FLYGEM," are special pieces as they not only capture the concept but also utilize our unique 3D embroidery technique, which can only be achieved by our embroidery workshop.

【Method 1】

3D EMBROIDERY HOODED SWEATSHIRTS Black / Beige
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥36,000 each (excluding tax)

OshimaThis was born from inspiration from MAMES's work "DESTINY LAND." It's a colorful DESTINY LAND, assembling a castle made of tin cans and cigarettes with various colorful tin cans and cigarettes. The technique used is amok's signature 3D embroidery, where over 30 layers of fabric are placed as a base and secured with embroidery thread to create a three-dimensional motif.

【Method 2】

3D EMBROIDERY SHIRTS Beige / Black
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥32,000 each (excluding tax)

OshimaThis was created inspired by MAMES's work "FLYGEM." The FLYGEM motif, laser-cut onto the base fabric, is arranged in a heart pattern and secured with floral embroidery. From a distance, it appears as a beautiful embroidered pattern, but up close, you can see that numerous FLYGEMs are embedded underneath through 3D embroidery.

【Method 3】

FLYGEM DAMAGE JACQUARD JACKET Black
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥58,000 (excluding tax)

OshimaThis was also created inspired by MAMES's work "FLYGEM." Since the eyes of FLYGEM are originally diamond-shaped, we created an original jacquard by emphasizing the wings as if they were fluttering hope, using a technique that omits the warp threads and leaves only the weft threads.

【Method 4】

VELCRO JACKET Black / Beige
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥63,000 each (excluding tax)

OshimaThis jacket breaks conventional ideas by creating laser-cut holes in the reinforcing stitch areas and reinforcing the back with tape to mimic stitching. The chest pocket is detachable with Velcro, revealing the "FLYGEM" motif when removed.
The back features Velcro with the amok and MAMES logo motifs attached to the body. Furthermore, three MAMES motifs can be attached and detached, allowing for a playful, customizable design.

【Method 5】

3D VARIOUS MOTIF KNIT Red / Black
Size | M/L
Price | ¥62,000 each (excluding tax)

OshimaThis knit features all-over patterns inspired by four MAMES works: "FLYGEM," "DESTINY LAND," "LONELY GIRL," and "HEART."
The appliqués are hand-knitted and hand-attached, making each piece special.

chamiWe were very particular about the length and silhouette when worn, ensuring it would be flattering on everyone. We synthesized opinions from both sides, and Mr. Oshima of amok led the process to create the best possible outcome. We meticulously discussed every detail, from comfort and fabric softness to the subtle nuances of color, right up to the final stages.

The idea of beautiful embroidery from afar revealing numerous flies embedded underneath through 3D embroidery when viewed up close was Mr. Oshima's proposal. Since MAMES's icon is "FLYGEM," flies with jewel eyes, we chose this as it perfectly matched both our worldviews.

The jacquard for "FLY GEM" that arrived as a sample already had a wonderful fabric texture, but Mr. Oshima mentioned that "the fabric would become even softer in the final product," which deeply impressed me with his uncompromising creativity. The T-shirts also express "ART or TRASH" by layering graphics onto organza material. It's like a beautiful dream's merry-go-round overlaid with a desolate reality's merry-go-round. This idea emerged during our meeting, and I was convinced it perfectly captured the worldview of this collection. Everything has meaning, and nothing is without detail.

Previous Interview (Unexpected Collaboration Between French and Japanese Geniuses)In the previous interview, MAMES stated, "The encounter with Anne was a turning point for the art that MAMES pursues." This time as well, "encounters" seem to have been a significant inspiration.

chamiEncounters with new creators are always stimulating. They show me worlds I never knew through various means. The encounter with amok has further expanded the possibilities for the world I want to express.

Mr. Oshima's proposed methods are wonderful, reminding me that breaking down the conventional and reconstructing it is a form of art. For example, the items using Velcro as a material. Since it consists of hooks and loops, multiple motifs can be layered on top of the base motif. This allows for endless new ways to wear the same garment by arranging your preferred placement. Through the creation process, I realized that various expressions are possible depending on the ideas, motifs, and materials.

"AKASHIC RECORDS," which presents future possibilities through highly intuitive and sensory curation, is undoubtedly an innovative event that will excite the participating artists themselves.

ChamiMr. Akashi provided a lot of advice. He offered guidance on how to express my worldview using amok's techniques, and we created many things together through discussion.

In addition to the amok collaboration, MAMES will also be presenting new original artworks at "AKASHIC RECORDS." I was excited every time Mr. Akashi said, "Everyone's work is amazing." It is a great honor to participate in this event where art from around the world gathers and is etched into new records. I would be happy if something new, as part of "AKASHIC RECORDS," is etched into the world.

The fashion industry has been significantly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic that swept the globe in 2020. We hope that the initiatives at "AKASHIC RECORDS" will serve as a new beacon of light.

OshimaWhile the current situation where our daily lives are no longer ordinary is negative due to COVID-19, I believe that times like these can also be opportunities for new things to emerge.

Fashion has a history that remains unchanged, both in good and bad ways. Similar to the brand's concept, I hope this will be an opportunity for change in a positive direction by deviating from fixed ideas and challenging change. I want to continue exploring ways of making clothes and techniques, and while respecting the fashion shows built by our predecessors, I also want to explore new ways of presentation and the very concept of clothing. I aim to be a brand that updates history.

VELCRO TEE White / Black
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥14,000 each (excluding tax)

MESSAGE TEE White / Black
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥14,000 each (excluding tax)

ART OR TRASH KNIT Black / Blue
Size | M/L
Price | ¥28,000 each (excluding tax)

DOLL PARTTERN JACKET Black
Size | S/M/L
Price | ¥76,000 (excluding tax)

Note: The amok x MAMES collection will feature a total of 16 items.

AKASHIC RECORDS
Organizer | Style Voice Co., Ltd.
Cooperation | JONETSU KOGYO Co., Ltd.
Venue | POP BY JUN [Shibuya PARCO 1F]
Dates | Friday, October 16, 2020 - Tuesday, November 3, 2020Open daily during the exhibition period
Hours | 11:00 - 21:00On Friday, October 16 only, from 17:00
Admission | Free

Note: On certain dates during the exhibition, to prevent congestion and issues at the venue, entry will be managed through a lottery system conducted online.