Yota Tsunoda | 'Tokyo Romantic Izakaya' | The Eighth Saiki in Ebisu

A Series Introducing Tokyo's Izakayas with Designer Yota Kakuda

Part 8: Ebisu "Saiki"

A series introducing Tokyo's izakayas with designer Yota Kakuda. The eighth installment takes us to Ebisu. From the west exit of Ebisu Station in Tokyo, cross Komazawa Dori, and head straight down a side street next to a bank to find this renowned establishment. Nearby, a few other shops like "Mahjong Seven" retain a nostalgic atmosphere. "Saiki," the subject of this feature, is among them. A noren curtain hangs on a traditional Japanese wooden house.

Text by YOTA KAKUDA Photographs by KENSHU SHINTSUBO

The Charm of Frosted Glass Beautifully Diffusing the Light

Passing through the noren and opening the door, you're greeted with a "Welcome home" by the staff. The first floor has about 10 counter seats and 8 table seats. In the quiet space, patrons returning from work leisurely enjoy warm sake.

Ascending the stairs to the second floor, which was once the owner's family home, you feel a sense of nostalgia. Two tatami rooms, reminiscent of a home, are separated by sliding doors. The doors have been repaired with paper featuring ukiyo-e designs.

The windowpanes facing the street are made of frosted glass, a material rarely seen today, which beautifully diffuses the outside light. It's fascinating how elements that once served a functional purpose now evoke a sense of charm.

We enjoyed three types of otoshi (appetizers). Apparently, many regulars stop by for a light drink of sake with these before heading home. The sake, "Ichinokura" frozen sake, is served in a sherbet-like state, gradually melting as you drink, allowing you to savor it with changing textures.

Discovering Beautifully Designed Bottle Openers

We started with fish dishes, including cured mackerel and blackthroat seaperch. Afterward, we enjoyed sake-friendly meat dishes like braised pork belly with miso and deep-fried skewers, accompanied by warm sake. Towards the end, the house specialty, shrimp shinjo, is served with seaweed salt, which is the local way to enjoy it here.

Much like the restaurant's atmosphere, I discovered well-crafted, vintage products everywhere. The cast-iron bottle opener used by the staff to open bottled beers on the floor is large, easy to use, and features a beautiful, flowing curve.

The plastic faucet handle at the washbasin, unlike modern ones, has a pleasingly tall shape that offers a good grip, making it a beautiful piece of design. The lock for the glass window requires only two fingers and has a simple, gentle design.

We highly recommend visiting this place, where you can experience a sense of nostalgia, as if you were drinking at your grandparents' home in the countryside.

Saiki
1-7-12 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3461-3367
Hours | 17:00–23:30
Closed Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays

YOTA KAKUDA
Designer. Born in Sendai. Moved to the UK in 2003, gaining experience at various firms. Graduated from the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2007. After returning to Japan in 2008, he worked as a product designer for MUJI before establishing YOTA KAKUDA DESIGN in 2011.
http://www.yotakakuda.com/

KENSHU SHINTSUBO
Photographer. Born in Tokyo. Author: "\u254FFuukei" (Kadokawa Shoten), "Rugged Time Scape" (FOIL). Related books: "Architecture and Photography Today" (TN Probe), "MTMDF" (HAKUHODO DESIGN), etc.
http://www.kenshu-shintsubo.com/