Yota Tsunoda | "Tokyo Romantic Izakaya" | Vol. 7 Morishita "Yamari ki"

Sake with Western food, Western liquor with Japanese food. Enjoy a mix that, in the best sense, disregards boundaries.

The 7th: Morishita's "Yamari-ki"

Morishita, Koto Ward, Tokyo―The renowned establishment stands near the border with Sumida Ward. Though its history includes a hiatus after being destroyed in the Great Tokyo Air Raid, it was founded 90 years ago. A short walk east from Morishita Station on the subway leads to the main building, and a short walk north to the new building. This time, I visited the new building.

Text by KAKUDA Yota Photographs by YAMADA Kazunobu

The first floor is nearly full, even while it's still light out.

Entering the restaurant, guided by a charming noren curtain adorned with a drawing of a pig, I found the first floor nearly full, even while it was still light out. Incidentally, the character on the noren is a clear explanation of the different cuts of grilled pork, designed by the second-generation owner, Yoichi Yamada.

Seated at the counter, I watched the veteran chefs work diligently in the kitchen; their focused efforts were truly captivating. The fan used at the grill is a clever, square-shaped design that allows air to be directed solely at the long, horizontal grill.

From chilled sake to white, then red wine

I began with chilled sake, oboro tofu, and house-made pickles. Each was an irresistible delight for any sake enthusiast. Afterward, I enjoyed sashimi of horse mackerel and grilled pork skewers, accompanied by various chilled sakes. And here's where the restaurant's unique character truly shines. Switching to white wine, I savored a delightful platter of smoked items. The current, third-generation owner's background in French cuisine led to the incorporation of many dishes infused with that culinary essence.

Next, paired with red wine, I indulged in the signature stew, served with garlic toast. This exquisite dish, simmered for over six hours with beef intestines and tripe, demands that every last drop of its rich sauce be soaked up by the bread.

The cast-iron pot used for the stew is visible from the counter, its presence commanding the very essence of the restaurant.

Mizukami-san, the floor manager and also a sommelier, recommended different wines to pair with the pork and chicken liver terrine. Other dishes, like the ratatouille, were also exceptionally delicious.

Towards the end, I also ordered kusaya (dried, fermented fish), and found that white wine was a surprisingly good match.

Sake with Western food, Western liquor with Japanese food. I leisurely enjoyed a mix that, in the best sense, disregarded boundaries. Wine at a downtown izakaya is quite an experience.

Yamari-ki, New Building
1-14-6 Morishita, Koto Ward, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5625-6685
Hours | 17:00–23:00
Closed | Sundays and Public Holidays

角田陽太｜KAKUDA Yota
Designer. Born in Sendai. Moved to the UK in 2003, gaining experience at various firms. Completed studies at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2007. After returning to Japan in 2008, he worked as a product designer for MUJI before establishing YOTA KAKUDA DESIGN in 2011.
http://www.yotakakuda.com/

山田和伸｜YAMADA Kazunobu
Born in Nara Prefecture in 1978. Studied under photographer Takashi Kumagai from 2005. Became independent in 2008 and has been working as a freelance photographer since.