Design
February 4, 2015
Yota Tsunoda | Tokyo Romantic Izakaya: A New Series Introducing Tokyo's Drinking Establishments, Part 1: Kuni in Sangenjaya
Exploring Tokyo's Drinking Establishments Through a Designer's Eye
Part 1: Kuni in Sangenjaya
“Paying attention to the fixtures that play a key role in creating the restaurant's atmosphere, we'll enjoy delicious sake and the restaurant's ambiance.”—This new series by Yota Kakuda, a product designer gaining attention across various fields, goes beyond a simple bar review. It invites readers to appreciate how each establishment achieves its unique charm, with a focus on everything from the facade and interior to the chairs, tables, and plates, all brought to life with vibrant photography. For this first installment, we visit "Kuni," a renowned motsuyaki (grilled offal) restaurant in Sangenjaya.
Text by YOTA KAKUDAPhotographs by TAKUMI OTA
Savoring warm sake with delicious snacks.
Walk about ten minutes down Chazawa Street from Sangenjaya towards Shimokitazawa, and you'll find this establishment. With its light gray facade, a plain noren (curtain) bearing no shop name, and a small red lantern, it's the kind of place you might easily pass by without noticing.
By the 5 PM opening time, twelve regulars were already seated, a clear sign of how beloved this local spot is. Simple pipe stools contribute to the unpretentious atmosphere, and the balance between the counter, tables, and small tatami seating area, each accommodating about twelve guests, feels just right.
Enjoying a signature sour with pickled vegetables and miso-grilled skewers. The beautifully presented pickles are nuka-zuke (rice bran fermented), their mild acidity wonderfully delicious. It’s true that a restaurant with excellent homemade pickles usually excels at everything else.
Kuni's miso-grilled skewers use a miso paste that isn't overly sweet, making them a perfect accompaniment to sake. The shiro (large intestine) is particularly noteworthy, being thick and delightfully chewy. Other motsuyaki, like the kashira (pork jowl) and kobukuro (small intestine), are also exquisite.
The fixtures also play a crucial role in shaping the restaurant's ambiance. The soy sauce dispenser is particularly appealing. Its curved surfaces on the sides and lid are gentle, and the finely molded vertical lines prevent any stickiness.
Even items like reservation tags, which might be considered undesirable in a bar setting, are presented with an understated, classic font. The sake and shochu bottle rack, essentially a simple 90-degree tilt of a case, is a product of interior design that naturally leverages the length of the bottles.
The skewers used for the ginkgo nuts and iwashi (sardines) are exceptionally thin, enhancing the visual appeal of the ingredients. Following these, warm sake continues to flow, paired with dishes like thick fried tofu, kinugatsugi (a type of taro stem dish), and grilled garlic. As the sake flows, so does the conversation.
Kuni
3-18-2 Taishido, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3410-7806
Hours: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM
Closed: Sundays and National Holidays
YOTA KAKUDA
Designer. Born in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, in 1979. Moved to the UK in 2003, gaining experience at various firms. Graduated from the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2007. Returned to Japan in 2008, worked as a product designer for MUJI, and established YOTA KAKUDA DESIGN in 2011. http://www.yotakakuda.com/
TAKUMI OTA
Photographer. Born in Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture, in 1978. Grew up in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, until graduating from high school. Works as a freelance photographer focusing on architecture, spaces, and products. http://www.phota.jp/