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October 16, 2018
It's practically a monastic devotion now (laughs). I'm so engrossed in knitting that I'm barely seeing people | MEDICOM TOY
MEDICOM TOY
KNIT GANG COUNCIL
An Interview with Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi (Part 1)
Artist Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi is gaining buzz on social media for knitting iconic figures into colorful sweaters. Hori-no-uchi, who previously worked as a graphic designer, discovered knitting in 2012. Until now, her creations, being handmade, were produced in very small quantities. However, a collaboration with MEDICOM TOY has led to the launch of the brand "KNIT GANG COUNCIL featuring Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi." In this interview, we asked Hori-no-uchi about what inspired her to start knitting and the background behind the brand's establishment.
Photographs by Kaku OhtakiText by Kunihiko SHINNO
As a Graphic Designer, I Can Create Patterns
"Mad Knitting Thunder Knit"
Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi
After graduating from Kuwasawa Design School, she became a graphic designer. Thinking, "I want to draw pictures with yarn," she learned knitting and began her activities as a knitting artist under the name "Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi" in 2012. She creates works using both machine knitting with a domestic knitting machine and hand knitting. A significant influence on her knitting was Osamu Hashimoto's 1984 book, "Men's Knitting, Osamu Hashimoto's Hand-in-Hand." Her first knitted piece was a vest for her spiritual master, Bruce Lee. She is currently collaborating on knitwear with musicians such as Yasuyuki Okamura and Tatsuya Nakamura. Her work has been featured in magazines like NYLON and SO-EN, as well as on international web media in countries like the US and Germany.
https://www.amimono.tokyo/
—As a graphic designer, what made you decide to present your knitting work?
Hori-no-uchiI happened to be looking at a music information website and found an article featuring hand-knitted sweaters with rock motifs from around the world.
Looking back, they weren't that complex, just knitted in two or three colors, but I found it fascinating.
It was like the "ugly sweater" trend that was popular for a while – the idea of knitting something you love. That's how it started.
I had never knitted before, but I realized that as a graphic designer, I could create patterns (diagrams for knitting designs).
So, all I had to do was learn the technique. I started by teaching myself hand knitting.
—It's astonishing that you can create such intricate pieces through self-study.
Hori-no-uchiThere's a book called "Men's Knitting, Osamu Hashimoto's Hand-in-Hand" (published in 1983) by Osamu Hashimoto. It featured graphic sweaters of Momoe Yamaguchi and Kenji Sawada that Hashimoto knitted, which caused quite a stir at the time. It's also an excellent how-to book on knitting, the clearest reference I've found. The explanations are so skillful, as you'd expect from an intelligent person.
—What was your very first knitted piece?
Hori-no-uchiIt was a Bruce Lee vest. I thought it would be interesting to create a tough character like Bruce Lee with the soft image of knitwear.
The next piece I made was a sweater featuring Yasushi Yokoyama. At first, I made it purely on impulse, but when I posted it on social media, the response exceeded my expectations.
However, even though I managed to learn how to knit, it took nearly a month to complete one piece. I realized this wouldn't be sustainable as a business, so I introduced a domestic knitting machine.
There weren't any how-to books for domestic knitting machines, and very few on YouTube. So, I attended a cultural school in Chiba for about six months, once a week, and learned machine knitting alongside the other students. Even then, it still took about a week to knit one piece.
—Can a domestic knitting machine create such complex patterns?
Hori-no-uchiThe machine isn't designed for intricate patterns, so initially, I couldn't knit them. I would hand-knit the patterned section of the front panel and use the machine only for the plain parts. My instructor also said it was impossible to create patterns with the machine, but through trial and error, I found a way to do it. It really comes down to perseverance.
The reason the instructor said it was impossible is that creating detailed patterns of human faces is very difficult. I think that's where my background in graphic design really helps.
—Your work often features motifs from '70s and '80s subculture, as well as rock musicians.
Hori-no-uchiThe responses on social media are strongest for major artists that everyone likes, and my concept of knitting interesting motifs into sweaters doesn't seem to be fully understood (laughs).
So, I thought I'd lean more towards rock music and made a David Bowie sweater, which generated an incredible number of inquiries.
I realized that an artist's fame directly correlates with the response. So, my work has been increasingly leaning towards rock music lately.
—It must take a lot of patience to recreate something as realistic as a photograph in knitwear.
Hori-no-uchiIt's practically a monastic devotion now (laughs). Since I started knitting, I've barely seen people or gone out for drinks. I'm so engrossed in knitting that I'm barely seeing people.
Page02.Timing is Everything When Creating Products
MEDICOM TOY
KNIT GANG COUNCIL
An Interview with Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi (Part 2)
Timing is Everything When Creating Products
—What's the story behind your artist name, "Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi"?
Hori-no-uchiAt first, I wanted something cool and in English. But my wife, who is a magazine editor, suggested, "How about this name?" Then she said, "Absolutely not. You need to make it clear what you do, like Candle JUNE." (laughs) Initially, I had a space between "Ami-mono" and "Hori-no-uchi," but she insisted, "That half-space is ambiguous, too. You need to put something in there." That's how the star symbol came about.
—That's a great story (laughs). Your catchphrase, "Mad Knitting Thunder Knit," is a reference to director Gakusho Ishii'sfilm "Burst City" ('80).Is that correct?
Hori-no-uchiIn 2015, a store in Fukuoka called BEEHIVE DELUXE invited me to hold a knitwear exhibition. They asked me to come up with a catchphrase for the flyer, so I came up with that. It was for one of my earliest exhibitions, shortly after I started my knitting activities.
—In 2016, you also held an exhibition at the long-standing punk shop"A STORE ROBOT"in Harajuku, Tokyo.
Hori-no-uchiI briefly wondered if my work belonged next to Seditionaries (laughs). For my generation, it's an aspirational shop, so I felt like, "Are you sure? Thank you very much!"
—Your work seems to resonate with the recent trends in high fashion, particularly those represented byGUCCIsince Alessandro Michele became Creative Director.
Hori-no-uchiGucci's knitwear is also stunning. The knitwear presented at this year's Milan Fashion Week, featuring manga illustrations (characters from Chika Ide's "Viva! Volleyball," serialized in the shojo manga magazine Ribon in 1968), shows them increasingly incorporating Japanese subculture.
About two or three years ago, I received a call out of the blue from a taxi driver. He mentioned he drives exclusively for Gucci's designers whenever they visit Japan. Apparently, he had seen my website and asked, "The designer wants to see your knitwear. Can I come over now?"
However, it was nighttime, and I had already returned home, so I couldn't go to my studio. I often wonder why I wasn't at my studio that day (laughs).
—Could you tell us about the process leading up to your collaboration with MEDICOM TOY?
Hori-no-uchiAround the beginning of this year, I received a very polite email from Mr. Akashi asking if I could create a sweater. I replied, "Of course, I can."
We exchanged messages about how handmade pieces would naturally be more expensive, whereas mass production would lower the unit price. Then, he suggested meeting to discuss it further.
—So, things progressed rapidly within about six months.
Hori-no-uchiI was surprised. Mr. Akashi said that timing is the most important factor when creating products, so we should move forward quickly. "Let's do it!"
Mr. Akashi is older than me, but we're from a similar generation, so I think he resonated with the motifs I create. MEDICOM TOY also seems to play a significant role as a new medium.
At the recent exhibition in Omotesando, as soon as I walked in, I was greeted by rows of BE@RBRICKs, and I was once again impressed by their high level of design. I realized that once you start collecting them, it's dangerous (laughs).
Page03.I've Always Loved Eikichi Yazawa
MEDICOM TOY
KNIT GANG COUNCIL
An Interview with Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi (Part 3)
I've Always Loved Eikichi Yazawa
—What led to the decision to create "Devilman" and "Sexy Robot" as the first items?
Hori-no-uchiRegarding Hajime Sorayama, I was amazed that he could create such precise drawings by hand in an era before computer graphics. Many artists used airbrushes back then, but the completeness and design quality of "Sexy Robot" are still incredible today. Reading interviews from that time, he seemed like someone who forged his own path.
Also, I admired Go Nagai and even aspired to become a manga artist at one point. I respect both of them.
—Will the price be significantly lower due to mass production?
Hori-no-uchiI believe we can offer them at a much more affordable price than handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces. Mass production has a limitation of using up to six colors of yarn, but showcasing skill within that constraint to create something wonderful is part of the appeal.
Last year, the sweater I made as tour merchandise for Yasuyuki Okamura was my first mass-produced item. Coincidentally, it was a project initiated by Kumiko Iijima of "Noodle.," who is also collaborating with MEDICOM TOY. Okamura himself apparently saw my social media posts and found them interesting. I was impressed by how well-connected and broad-minded he is.
He seems to interact with a wide range of people.
—What about the brand name "KNIT GANG COUNCIL"?
Hori-no-uchiMr. Akashi came up with that name. At first, I thought it might be a one-off
collaboration, but he created a brand and even included "featuring Ami-mono Hori-no-uchi." That was also a huge surprise. MEDICOM TOY has a significant market overseas, so I'm excited about future developments.
We are currently working with MEDICOM TOY on items themed around "Rock and Movies," and I expect them to be more casual wear. Initially, I created knitwear without considering everyday wear, but I hope to see people wearing them on the streets soon.
—We look forward to your future endeavors. Will you continue your personal knitting projects as well?
Hori-no-uchiYes. I think that's where the real fun lies.
I've received several invitations for gallery exhibitions, but I can't seem to accumulate enough work. I do accept personal orders, but I simply don't have enough time.
I'm also juggling my main job as a designer,
so it's a constant cycle of graphic design, knitting, graphic design (laughs).
—Finally, could you share your dreams with us?
Hori-no-uchiI've always loved Eikichi Yazawa. I love his album "P.M.9" and still attend his concerts. So, I hope to collaborate with him in some form someday.