BE@RBRICK is a blank canvas. The designer's challenge lies in what they choose to draw upon it. | MEDICOM TOY

MEDICOM TOY

An Interview with KIDILL Designer, Hiroaki Sueyasu (Part 1)

BE@RBRICK is an item that lends itself to a wide range of collaborations. While many notable figures from diverse fields have participated, perhaps a characteristic feature is the large number of participants from the fashion culture. Because the form of BE@RBRICK is fixed from the outset, the challenge lies purely in the concept. What do they seek as they take on this challenge?

Photographs by Kaku OhtakiText by Kunihiko Shinnno

A Brand's Icon, Reimagined as BE@RBRICK

—First, could you tell us about the fashion brand KIDILL?

From the KIDILL 2018 Spring & Summer Collection.

SueyasuKIDILL is a coined word meaning 'purity and state of mind,' and we launched the brand in 2014.

I take inspiration from the culture I experienced in the '90s—graffiti, punk, skateboarding, film, contemporary literature—and translate it into clothing in my own way.

—The appeal of KIDILL's clothing, which gracefully navigates the space between street and high fashion, reflects your personal tastes, Mr. Sueyasu.

SueyasuUltimately, what I find cool are the cultures I loved when I was young.

If I don't make clothes that lean towards my own preferences, they end up feeling inauthentic.

Today's young people are so cool, so I make clothes with the hope that they'll wear them. It's a men's brand, but recently we've been seeing more female customers.

—This time, your brand's icons, 'KIDILL BEAR' and 'KIDILL CAT,' have been transformed into BE@RBRICK and NY@BRICK, respectively.

Both designs are punky and impactful. How did these characters come into being?

SueyasuBefore starting KIDILL, I ran another brand for about 10 years. Graphics have been a key feature since then, and in that context, I've worked on various graphics.

We decided to create slightly crazy animal characters, and 'KIDILL BEAR' debuted as an embroidery on a T-shirt, while 'KIDILL CAT' appeared as a jacquard knit character on a sweater.

—Do you happen to own any pets, Mr. Sueyasu?

SueyasuI don't own any pets, but I like cats, bears, and wolves. They are intended to be the face of the brand, appearing in some form every season.

Left: KIDILL BEAR. Right: KIDILL CAT. Both were released in KIDILL's first year (currently sold out).

The Road to Collaboration with MEDICOM TOY

—What led to the collaboration with Medicom Toy?

SueyasuMr. Akashi, the president of Medicom Toy, was already a fan and had been buying KIDILL clothing.

Then, when we created and exhibited limited-edition products with Comme des Garçons Trading Museum, he contacted us for the first time.

Mr. Akashi also seems to like quirky characters, and he proposed that we create something interesting together using KIDILL's characters.

—Have you collected figures before?

SueyasuAs a child, I collected things like Bikkuriman stickers.

During the '90s boom in American comic figures, I also bought figures from that genre. Fundamentally, I love them.

So, I was thrilled when the offer first came.

—What were your impressions when you saw the "KIDILL BEAR" and "KIDILL CAT" realized in three dimensions?

SueyasuSince they were originally flat graphics, I was mostly thinking, 'How will this turn out?'

When I saw the samples, I was impressed by the incredible level of completion. 'They're true masters,' I thought.

—Did you make any minor adjustments or changes?

SueyasuFrom the beginning, Medicom Toy had a clear vision for how they wanted to realize these characters, so there were no minor adjustments needed. They were complete from the initial stage.

It was so smooth that it almost made me worried (laughs).

Indeed, 'KIDILL BEAR' and 'KIDILL CAT' turned out to be very compatible characters.

Since I've only made clothing until now, I'm curious to see the reaction and who will be buying these figures.

Page 02.Feature: A Guide to Tracing Back Origins Through MEDICOM TOY

MEDICOM TOY

An Interview with KIDILL Designer, Hiroaki Sueyasu (Part 2)

Feature: A Guide to Tracing Back Origins Through MEDICOM TOY

—Perhaps some people will discover the brand KIDILL through this collaboration with BE@RBRICK and NY@BRICK.

SueyasuI think so. BE@RBRICK has, since its early days,FUTURAandSTASH,KAWSreleased collaboration models with graffiti artists, right? I believe many people learned about them through those.

Left: © FUTURA. Center: © STASH. Right: © KAWS.
BE@RBRICK TM & © 2001-2017 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.

In the '90s, when I was in vocational school, I discovered FUTURA and became interested in graffiti. I loved it so much that I even went to New York just to see his graffiti.

—You studied fashion design independently in London in the early 2000s, is that correct?

SueyasuI lived there for three years.BANKSYThere was a lot of Banksy's graffiti on the streets. I'd discover his work on my way home from grocery shopping.

He wasn't well-known then, so I never imagined he'd become so popular.

—I believe his sale at Sotheby's auction in 2007 for a total of £372,000 (approximately 85 million yen) was a significant moment.

SueyasuWhen I visited London again after a long time, his graffiti was being protected to prevent theft. It was surprising to see graffiti treated that way.

Medicom Toy also creates items inspired by Banksy's work. I think that's impressive.

Regarding BE@RBRICK, I get the impression that you have a discerning eye, collaborating with the most cutting-edge people of each era.

Artists also view BE@RBRICK itself as a blank canvas, creating works on it, and it seems to be a very good match.

—In recent graffiti artist collaborations, BE@RBRICKs featuring Jean-Michel Basquiat and

Keith Haring have been released.

Left: Jean-Michel Basquiat © Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat Licensed by Artestar, New York. Right: Keith Haring © Keith Haring Foundation Licensed by Artestar, New York. BE@RBRICK TM & © 2001-2017 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.

SueyasuYes, I saw them. They were covered in all-over prints and looked very cute.

—From your perspective as a fashion designer, what is BE@RBRICK to you?

SueyasuAs I mentioned earlier, it's close to a blank canvas. I believe the structural aspects have been meticulously developed by Mr. Akashi and his team over time. For this 'KIDILL BEAR' and 'KIDILL CAT' project, the process of translating flat graphics into three-dimensional objects was particularly fascinating.

—Returning to the brand, there was also a collaboration in KIDILL's 2018 Spring Summer Collection.

SueyasuTitled 'NEW CHAOS,' it was a collaboration with photographer Dennis Morris. I've always been a huge fan of John Lydon, so I had wanted to collaborate with Public Image Ltd. (P.I.L.) for a long time. Then, three years ago, Dennis Morris visited Japan and came to see the KIDILL runway show at Hikarie Shibuya. That was our first meeting, and he liked my clothes. We stayed in touch, and the collaboration finally came to fruition this time.

—That sounds like an ideal encounter.

SueyasuYes. We're working well together. In the late '70s, as punk began to fade and new wave emerged, John Lydon, after leaving the Sex Pistols, was also exploring post-punk in an effort to break away from punk. Dennis Morris was with him during that period, documenting the atmosphere of the time through his photography.

So, this time, I decided to shed punk for a moment and create clothing that represents my own take on post-punk, taking it a step further. While using John Lydon's photographs out of respect, I've adapted them into contemporary clothing.

—I see.

SueyasuAdditionally, this season, I received the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix. As part of that, I presented the collection at Shibuya Hikarie during Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo. Receiving the Governor of Tokyo Award from Governor Yuriko Koike was a great honor.

It was also wonderful to be able to showcase the collaboration with Dennis Morris in a runway format. I created the clothes with a sense of enjoyment, embodying my own interpretation of a contemporary John Lydon.

After the show, Dennis Morris contacted me, saying he wanted the 'outfit with numerous keychains attached' (mentioned earlier).outfit with numerous keychains attachedI was surprised, wondering if he'd actually wear it (laughs), but I was happy. Incidentally, Mr. Akashi of Medicom Toy also liked that keychain outfit.

—Will they be available in stores next spring?

From the KIDILL 2018 Spring & Summer collaboration with Dennis Morris.

SueyasuYes, around February of next year, I believe.

—Are there any future challenges you'd like to take on with Medicom Toy?

SueyasuThis was our first collaboration, so if another opportunity arises, I'd love to! I think we could do even more interesting things the second time around.

Also, I'd like to ask for your help when I undertake something significant. For example, when debuting at London Collection, I'd love for Medicom Toy to create incredibly elaborate masks. Clothing is what customers look at most in a collection, so I'd be happy if we could collaborate on that. Above all, I want to do something unprecedented and extraordinary.

—I would certainly love to see that! I look forward to your future endeavors.