Yota Tsunoda | Tokyo's Bar Scene, Part 3: Ebisu's 'Nawa no Noren'
Design
December 9, 2014

Yota Tsunoda | Tokyo's Bar Scene, Part 3: Ebisu's 'Nawa no Noren'



With only a month and a half left until renovations, hurry if you want to savor this atmosphere!


Third Installment: Ebisu "Nawa-no-Ren"



It looks like a place frequented by regulars, always bustling, with everyone happily sharing drinks.──Product designer Yota Kakuda visits establishments where one can "enjoy good sake and appreciate the ambiance and furnishings." For the third installment of this series, he visits "Nawa-no-Ren" in Ebisu, a renowned motsuyaki (grilled offal) restaurant. So, what shall we start with?






Text by YOTA KAKUDA
Photographs by KAZUNOBU YAMADA





A Beloved Stand-Up Bar Where You'll Linger




Two minutes on foot from the west exit of JR Ebisu Station, across Komazawa Dori, and just a short walk down a side street lies this standing bar.

The sign, the lanterns, and the shop's namesake noren (curtain) all bear the marks of time. Unfortunately, due to building demolition, the establishment will temporarily close after the end of May, with a reopening at a new location planned for February of next year.


Yota Kakuda | Nawa-no-Ren 03

The establishment, with space for about 40 patrons at its tables and counter, bustles with people working in nearby offices about an hour after opening. Skewers line the electric grill behind the counter. The owner's grilling is exquisite; while sipping the signature highball, I enjoyed the beef skirt steak and tripe.


It's rare to find beef offal served on skewers, and the grilled heart and sweetbreads are perfect accompaniments to sake. The grilled vegetables are also superb; the Tosa sweet peppers and green onions add a refreshing contrast to the meat skewers.

Yota Kakuda | Nawa-no-Ren 06

Yota Kakuda | Nawa-no-Ren 14

Mustard and garlic, which pair wonderfully with the skirt steak, are served in small, roughly 5cm diameter cups, allowing for personal preference. These simple, beautiful cups, crafted from aluminum sheets, are perfectly sized for the amount of seasoning and the ice cream spoons provided for portioning.


The tables, made by stacking soda bottle crates and placing a board on top, are surprisingly stable due to the weight of the bottles. Moreover, they unexpectedly lend a minimalist sense of unity to the shop's interior, rather than a cluttered feel, which is quite interesting. The analog cash register has a clear operational flow, and it's a piece of equipment I hope they continue to use at the new location.

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Finally, one selects a skirt steak cut based on appetite and desired thickness, and has it grilled. The steak, cooked rare and brimming with juices, is enjoyed with a knife and fork.


A beloved stand-up bar where you'll linger. While the taste of the food is unlikely to change during the closure, if you wish to experience this atmosphere, I urge you to visit within the remaining month and a half.

Yota Kakuda | Nawa-no-Ren 15

Nawa-no-Ren
1-8-4 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3496-2919
Hours: 18:00–22:00
Closed: Saturdays, Sundays, and Public Holidays


YOTA KAKUDA
Designer. Born in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, in 1979. Moved to the UK in 2003 and gained experience at various firms. Completed studies at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2007. After returning to Japan in 2008, he worked as a product designer for MUJI before establishing YOTA KAKUDA
DESIGN in 2011.
http://www.yotakakuda.com/

KAZUNOBU YAMADA

Born in Nara Prefecture in 1978. Studied under photographer Takashi Kumagai from 2005. Became independent in 2008 and has been working as a freelance photographer ever since.