The Light and Shadow of the 19th-Century British Empire

Penhaligon’s, the British royal warrant holder, has unveiled its 2015 new collection, "Trade Routes." Inspired by the docks of late 19th-century London, these three rich and artistic scents evoke the light and shadow of the British Empire, which at the time had expanded to the point where it was said, "the sun never sets on the empire."

Trade routes are the trade paths connecting London with its colonies. The adventurous, opulent, decadent, and luxurious world brought about by colonial trade—encompassing everything from luxury goods, rare items, exotic ornaments, spices, and unusual foods and drinks to mysterious medicines arriving from around the globe—serves as the wellspring of inspiration for this new collection. The new fragrances are "Lothair," "Empressa," and "Levantium."


TRADE ROUTES COLLECTION "Lothair"
Lothair is the name of a fast sailing ship that carried tea. Built in 1869, it made its maiden voyage the following year, and also called at Yokohama. It was built in the same year that Penhaligon’s was founded.
One moment, grapefruit and juniper berry sweep through like a sea breeze, then smoky black tea mingles with magnolia and fig, unfurling in a bold, vibrant aroma, leaving an exotic trail of ambergris and cedar. In an instant, your mind is transported to a place far from here, on a dazzling, adventurous journey. It possesses an elegance that defies the current trend favoring lightness, and is suitable for any gender.


TRADE ROUTES COLLECTION "Empressa"
Empress means empress. The inspiration comes from luxury goods such as silk, fine textiles, and pearls, dedicated to women of power and influence. Among the three, it has the most feminine impression. The "empress" it evokes is Queen Victoria, who married in a white wedding dress, and after the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, spent the latter half of her life in mourning black, becoming the "Empress of India." Perhaps her white and black dresses symbolized the romantic ideal of love, where a woman's happiness lies in loving only one man throughout her life.


TRADE ROUTES COLLECTION "Levantium"
From the top, thrilling notes of absinthe, rum, and saffron arrive. This is followed by floral heart notes of rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, leaving a long, warm trail of oud, myrrh, vanilla, and musk. Its lack of a sharp initial impression makes it perhaps the most mysterious and curiosity-piquing scent. Victorian England, while celebrating prosperity and valuing respectability, also harbored a dark side, symbolized by the Jack the Ripper murders. It was a soil that could give rise to stories like "The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde." This fragrance offers a sexy tolerance that embraces both danger and kindness, the pure and the impure, enveloping one softly.

The Trade Routes Collection, with its deep, rich, and captivating lingering scent that is not merely refined but also complex, ensnares the senses. It is a fragrance to be worn with the spirit of a 21st-century traveler, while reflecting on the romantic adventurers of the 19th-century Victorian era.


Kaori Nakano
Essayist and fashion historian. Specially Appointed Professor at Meiji University's School of Global Japanese Studies. After completing her graduate studies at the University of Tokyo and serving as a visiting researcher at the University of Cambridge, she began her writing career. While active as a freelance fashion historian, she was appointed Specially Appointed Professor when Meiji University established its School of Global Japanese Studies in 2008. She conducts research, writes, and lectures from a broad perspective, covering everything from fashion history to the latest trends.
Her major works include "Mode to Eros to Shihan" (Shueisha Shinsho), "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Men" (Shincho Sensho), "Loved Mode" (Chuo Koron Shinsha), and "A Cultural History of the Suit" (Kindle edition of "The Myth of the Suit," Bungei Shunju Shinsho), among many others.
http://www.kaori-nakano.com/
http://nakanokaori.cocolog-nifty.com/