ARQUISTE | A New Fragrance from NY, Crafted by an Architect, Arrives in Japan for the First Time
ARQUISTE
New York-based Fragrance Brand by an Architect, Now Arriving in Japan
Like a Time Capsule, Relive That Place, That Feeling (1)
Since its debut in 2011, the New York-based fragrance brand "ARQUISTE" has been expanding globally. Founded by Carlos Huber, an architect who has been involved in the restoration and preservation of historic buildings, the brand's scents have received high acclaim in fragrance markets worldwide. Now, this much-talked-about brand has finally landed in Japan, launching sales at four stores in Tokyo this spring. How did these novel scents, appealing to "time, place, and senses," come to be?──We spoke with Carlos Huber, who made his first visit to Japan.
Photograph by JAMANDFIXText by SOMEYA Harumi
The Architect Who Revives History Meets a Bestselling Perfumer
ARQUISTE, by Carlos Huber, an architect who originally specialized in the restoration and preservation of historic buildings, is a collection where history and modernity intersect. The seven fragrances, composed of floral, spicy, powdery, citrus, and woody bases, awaken dormant memories and landscapes within us with each wear, inviting us on a journey through history. Their quality is undeniable, and in June 2013, "Boutonniere no.7" was selected as one of the top five scents by the Fragrance Foundation, often called the "Oscars of fragrance."
Boutonniere no.7
The backdrop for this scent is the main lobby of the Paris Opera House in May 1899. Magnificent Beaux-Arts stone walls, dazzling chandeliers. The opera house's main lobby was a social hub for Parisian elites. The scene of the lobby, bustling with people during the opera intermission, is expressed through a smoky aroma. Crisp bergamot and lavender evoke the suave demeanor of men in black tie. At the time, it was fashionable to use fresh flowers as boutonnieres (corsages pinned to the lapel). Gardenias, in particular, with their soft whiteness, were popular and called the "flower of the opera." This becomes the key scent of the fragrance. It conjures the image of a woman elegantly leading the way, adorning her chest with the sweet scent of gardenias, positioned at the height of a face.
The perfumers are Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Yann is known for LE LABO's "Aldehyde 44" and has worked with brands like Marc Jacobs and TOM FORD. Rodrigo, on the other hand, has created numerous hits, including Elizabeth Arden's Green Tea series, and has also worked with Tom Ford and John Varvatos. Both are renowned perfumers. The meeting between the architect who revives history and the bestselling perfumers was a simple coincidence.
──How did you meet Yann and Rodrigo?
Carlos Huber (hereinafter Carlos)I've always loved perfume. I always wore something, and I was very sensitive to scents. With that background, the catalyst was a friend from my time in Mexico. She worked as an "evaluator," responsible for promoting fragrances created by perfumers. When I moved to New York eight years ago, she followed a few years later. So, the stage was set in New York.
I met Yann at a party. As he is a very famous perfumer, our conversation naturally turned to fragrances. During our chat, I mentioned my friend who is an evaluator, and it turned out he knew her too. From there, the circle expanded, and I was able to meet Rodrigo as well.
──Did meeting them lead you to create fragrances?
CarlosSince then, we started having meals together more often, and at each gathering, I would bombard Rodrigo with questions about perfume. Then, one day, he said, "If you're that interested, I'll give you lessons." As a result, I studied specialized knowledge under him for a year and a half, which has led me to where I am today. While studying, I continued my architectural work, and I had no intention of quitting. However, the deeper I delved, the more my interest grew, and I eventually decided to pursue a career in fragrance.
ARQUISTE
New York-based Fragrance Brand by an Architect, Now Arriving in Japan
Like a Time Capsule, Relive That Place, That Feeling (2)
Distant Past, Memories: ARQUISTE Transports You to That Place, That Time, That Emotion
A year later, Carlos launched "ARQUISTE" on his own. The reason he decided to go solo, rather than join a team, was because he wanted to continue his architectural career. Drawing on his background, Carlos, who was interested in historic architecture, wanted to create scents that appealed to "time, place, and senses."
──What was the first ARQUISTE creation?
CarlosI immediately developed the concept and presented the ideas to Yann and Rodrigo. The scents at that time were "Infanta en flor" and "Fleur de Louis." Both fragrances are set in the same "Basque region on the border of Spain and France in June 1660." However, "Infanta en flor" tells the story from the Spanish perspective, while "Fleur de Louis" is from the French viewpoint. When I asked for their opinions on these concepts, they responded with "Wonderful!" and encouraged me, saying, "This is something you should do as a brand; we'll cooperate with you."
So, how exactly are ARQUISTE scents created?──The scents are based on historical stories. Carlos meticulously researches and recreates the scenery, atmosphere, and emotions of a particular era into a fragrance.
──How are ARQUISTE fragrances made?
CarlosFirst, I present a "dossier" to the perfumer, explaining the story within. For example, it might detail the types of trees that grew there, the remaining architecture, or the likely smell upon entering a castle. The dossier contains various details, which the perfumers absorb to embody the scent. I do request specific notes I want to use, but Yann and Rodrigo are top professionals. I leave the sourcing of materials to them. I handle the design and creative research, focusing on providing the story and inspiration to the perfumers.
──How long does it take to complete one fragrance?
CarlosIt takes about a year from the conceptualization to completion. Each time, five samples are submitted. I test them, observe the changes in scent, provide feedback, and request the next iteration. This process repeats until I feel "This is it!"
ARQUISTE
New York-based Fragrance Brand by an Architect, Now Arriving in Japan
Like a Time Capsule, Relive That Place, That Feeling (3)
Recommended Scents: "Infanta en flor" and "L'Etrog"
Carlos's own encounter with fragrance dates back to his student days. His first scent was "Ambre Sultan" by SERGE LUTENS, a fragrance brand from Shiseido (The Ginza).
──What kind of perfumes do you personally prefer?
Carlos"Ambre Sultan," which I bought in Paris, was a scent I loved at the time, but it was a bit strong, and I sometimes felt a certain intensity when wearing it. That experience fueled my desire to create perfumes. I wanted to make fragrances with complexity and layers that could be worn more casually.
I also used CHANEL's "SYCOMORE" and D'ORSAY's "Le Nomade" for a period, but now I spend my days testing samples and have much less opportunity to wear other perfumes. Among the ARQUISTE collection, I use "Fleur de Louis" the most. It has a woody yet soft scent and is very easy to wear. It has reaffirmed my realization that I am fond of floral scents.
Fleur de LouisFloral, Powdery, Woody Notes (Orange Blossom, Florentine Iris, Jasmine, Cedarwood)
Infanta en florFloral, Leather, Powdery Notes (Orange Flower Water, Spanish Leather, Cistus Labdanum, Immortelle)
The setting for this fragrance is Pheasant Island on the border of Spain and France in June 1660. Spanish Princess Maria Theresa was to marry Louis XIV for political reasons. Louis XIV, known as the "most fragrant monarch," and the innocent Maria, with her flushed cheeks. Both scents capture the atmosphere of each character exceptionally well.
──What scent do you recommend for Japanese women?
Carlos"Fleur de Louis," as I mentioned, is set in the Basque region on the French border as seen from France in June 1660. Then, "Infanta en flor," which tells the story from the Spanish perspective, is more suited for women. I particularly recommend it to Japanese women. While fresh and floral, it is clean and powdery. With a hint of baby musk, it's lovely and creates a comforting scent that makes you want to hug the wearer, like bare skin.
"L'Etrog"L'Etrogalso seems to suit the Japanese market. Set in Calabria, Italy, in October 1175, "L'Etrog" has a fresh citrus scent. It has a sweet, powdery heart, and possesses smoothness, depth, and complexity. Although it's a cologne, it's unisex and has a friendly aroma.
──What are your tips for applying perfume?
CarlosTips for using fragrance effectively? Well, my advice would be to apply it to the "places where you want someone to get closer." For example, if you move your hands a lot, apply it to your forearms or the back of your hands. Try one or two sprays. Over-application is a no-no. A maximum of three sprays. I highly recommend the neck. This is an area where you want a "loved one" to approach. Especially since women tend to sniff the neck, this is a crucial point for men to keep in mind (laughs).
ARQUISTE
New York-based Fragrance Brand by an Architect, Now Arriving in Japan
Like a Time Capsule, Relive That Place, That Feeling (4)
Long-Awaited Arrival in Japan, with Plans for a Japan-Themed Fragrance
When asked again about the relationship between "architecture" and "fragrance," Carlos immediately replied, "I think they are connected." As an architect, the "structure" and "construction" he constantly hones in his mind are essential elements in creating perfumes.
──Are architecture and perfume creation similar?
CarlosAn architect is not just a draftsman but a project manager who orchestrates the entire operation. From selecting building materials to finishing, designing foundations and windows, and even taking on the role of an interior decorator. This entire process has parallels with creating a product like perfume. Perfume is also an art related to beauty and nature, but since it's applied to the skin, it must function properly. I think that's where it's similar to architecture. Architecture is also art, but unlike sculpture (which is purely for appreciation), functionality must always be considered during creation.
He also mentioned plans to create a fragrance themed around Japan in the future. The story would be set in the 1600s, when a Japanese delegation traveled to Europe. Currently, he is researching Tsunenaga Hasekura, who led the delegation. He reads historical documents, conducts interviews, and studies diligently. "It's quite unusual for someone to do this much research to create a perfume," he says with a smile.
──You seem to be researching with more passion than just for "image sources."
CarlosResearch is demanding, but I enjoy it, so it's not a hardship. More importantly, research clarifies the direction of the perfume. I draw inspiration from stories that actually happened, independent of trends. I believe that authenticity is ARQUISTE's greatest appeal.
This spring, "ARQUISTE" begins sales in Japan. Just as we have been waiting, the entry into the Japanese market is a long-awaited development for Carlos as well. With two new fragrances scheduled to launch in June, it's the perfect timing. He expresses his pride and joy in the current lineup while also conveying his desire to deliver many more new scents.
CarlosARQUISTE fragrances tell stories; they are authentic and honest. I sincerely hope everyone in Japan will enjoy the historical journey that our scents offer.
Carlos Huber
Born in Mexico in 1980. He majored in architecture at Columbia University, graduating at the top of his class. He has since specialized in the restoration of historic buildings and has also been extensively involved in store design for Ralph Lauren. His works, which consistently showcase a unique sensibility that respects history and revives it for the present day, are highly regarded by experts.
ARQUISTE All 7 types [55mL each] ¥17,000 each (excluding tax)
"L'Etrog"L'Etrog/ October 1175, Calabria, Italy
"Flor y Canto" / August 1400, Tenochtitlan, Mexico
"Fleur de Louis" / June 1660, Pheasant Island, Basque region, border of France and Spain
"Infanta en flor" / June 1660, Pheasant Island, Basque region, border of Spain and France
"Anima Dulcis" / November 1695, Mexico City
"Aleksandr" / January 1837, Saint Petersburg, Russia
"Boutonniere no.7" / May 1899, Main Lobby, Paris Opera House
Retailers
Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 3F "Re-Style Gift"
Tomorrowland Shibuya Main Store
SUPER A MARKET Aoyama Store
ANA InterContinental Tokyo "Raison d'être Cigar Club"
Peace81
Tel. 03-6427-2983