Michiko Fujiwara Series: April 2018 | Create “Beautifully Realistic” Eyes with Finger-Applied “Moist” Eyeshadow

Shifting to Finger Application for Eyeshadow

For the past two to three years, I've primarily applied my own eyeshadow with my fingers. This means using my middle or ring finger to pick up and apply the shadow. I apply it between the inner and outer corners of my upper eyelid. For finer areas like the lash line of the upper lid or the lower lid, which are difficult to reach with fingers, I use a tip applicator. So, the main tool for eye makeup is my finger, supplemented by a tip applicator.

Photographs & Text by FUJIWARA Michiko

Changing Tools to Match Eyeshadow Texture

The reason I started applying eyeshadow with my fingers is that the texture of eyeshadow has changed from the conventional dry, powdery type to a "moist" consistency. I adapted my tools accordingly.

Moist eyeshadows contain oils, so if applied with a brush, the oils can get caught between the bristles, leading to a sticky, uneven application. However, with fingers, the oils don't get trapped, preventing unevenness. Furthermore, I find that applying moist textures with the warmth and curves of my fingers enhances their quality. Perhaps it's a case of changing tools as the product changes.

The Benefits of "Moist" and Strategic Finger Use

What are the advantages of a "moist" eyeshadow texture? Because they contain oils, they offer a translucent finish. They also adhere well to the skin, creating a subtle, realistic, and natural impression with a less "made-up" look. Moreover, the somewhat imprecise finish achieved with finger application perfectly captures the current mood.

And why do I use my middle or ring finger? These fingers can be placed horizontally against the eyelid, allowing for even application. The index finger tends to smudge onto the lower lid, and it's easy to bend the fingertip, which also leads to unevenness. It goes without saying that the little finger and thumb are not suitable.

For my upper eyelid, I use my middle finger. For the inner corner and the tip area, I use my ring finger. The position and size of each finger are perfectly suited to the specific area and coverage I need to apply.

Using and Applying Eye Glow Gems

While eyeshadow textures are currently shifting towards "moist" types, a pioneer in this area is the newly revamped Eye Glow Gem from COSME DECORTE's spring makeup collection. These cream eyeshadows are appealing for their moist texture, radiance, beautiful colors, and resistance to creasing.

My recommended way to use and apply them is as follows: For the lighter shade in the top row, I use it as a highlight color, dabbing it with my ring finger on the inner corner of the eye while keeping my eyes open. The deeper shade in the middle row is used as a contour color, applied with my middle finger on the upper eyelid while my eyes are closed. The nuanced shade in the bottom row is applied with a tip applicator to the entire lower lash line or the outer corner.

Please try it with your favorite colors.