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August 3, 2016
AYAKO Special Interview: "This Autumn, ADDICTION Enters Its Next Stage" | ADDICTION
ADDICTION
Creative Director AYAKO: Special Interview
This Autumn, ADDICTION Enters Its Next Stage (1)
ADDICTION has consistently proposed an essential feminine beauty that is both supple and refined. Seven years after its debut, the brand is finally launching skincare products. Encased in white bottles, these are the "Oil Cleansing ADDICTION," which perfectly embodies the vision of Creative Director AYAKO. Prior to this, they are launching the 2016 Autumn/Winter collection, presenting a new image of the "HAZY" woman. We asked AYAKO, who visited Japan to present these major announcements, about her current feelings.
Photo by JAMANDFIXText by AYANA
The Art of "Beautifully Removing" Makeup
It would be untrue to say that ADDICTION has never had any skincare products. There were "Misty On," designed for portability and travel to recharge skin with moisture; "Eye Makeup Remover," which effortlessly removes waterproof colors; the once-limited edition multi-use "Beauty Oil"; and "Body Scrub" and "Crystal Body Oil" for skin polishing... Items that showcased ADDICTION's unique perspective always hinted at the brand's high potential in skincare.
"I'm always thinking about what constitutes 'ADDICTION-like' skincare. It's an approach different from a dedicated skincare brand, a perspective unique to a makeup artist's brand. The reason I focused on a cleansing oil this time is because I believe cleansing is the 'ending of makeup.' After preparing the skin, applying makeup, and spending a wonderful day, you thank it and wash it off. Women have a responsibility for their makeup. This means it must be removed."
ADDICTION is a brand for jet-setters. Not necessarily those who are always traveling, but women who are active and challenge themselves with new things every day. For these busy women who possess their own style, skincare must offer both functionality and beauty.
"My spirit as a makeup artist demanded beauty even in the act of removal. That's why, after seven years, I wanted our first skincare product to be something truly representative of ADDICTION. To elegantly and comfortably remove and rinse away beautifully applied makeup. That was the theme for this cleansing oil. Beauty, in this context, means being stress-free. It means dissolving smoothly, having a pleasant scent. And it means being satisfied with the skin's condition afterward. The meticulously crafted formula achieves a unique balance."
Only Releasing What I Truly Believe In
In developing an oil to beautifully remove makeup, AYAKO established four conditions: "a gentle, exquisite cleansing feel," "reliable cleansing power," "a clean rinse," and "a balanced 'after-feel.'" However, development proved extremely challenging. For instance, prioritizing a gentle oil texture often resulted in a heavy feel, making a clean rinse difficult. Researchers uniformly stated, "Fulfilling all of AYAKO's conditions is too high a hurdle."
"When it comes to anything beyond cleansing oil, the perspectives of lab personnel with extensive chemical knowledge and makeup artists on the ground are vastly different. It's not easy for my intentions to be conveyed without us meeting face-to-face."
The situation was resolved, again, by the magic of "the field." Normally, AYAKO does not speak directly with lab personnel, but this time, she realized it was necessary and visited the lab herself, meeting each person individually to convey her vision.
"As a result, everyone suddenly moved in the same direction, and we were able to race to completion. The fact that we became a team and understood each other was significant."
By highly formulating oils with small molecular weights, it instantly captures impurities and removes them swiftly. The rich, paste-like oil, combined with various oils of different viscosities and thicknesses, meticulously calculated and optimally balanced, achieves both gentleness and lightness. Seven botanical oils leave the skin moisturized and soft. It took over two years for the idea to take shape, and finally, an oil that meets all four conditions was completed.
Craftsmanship Driven by a Feminine Perspective
If the cleansing power is too strong, it can damage the skin; if the moisturizing effect is too strong, it can leave a sticky residue. The scent of juniper and geranium rose, which helps one regain their sense of self, must be neither too strong nor too weak. As AYAKO explains, aiming for the perfect balance in all aspects, this oil is exceptionally well-balanced. Incidentally, she offers a detailed tip: "It also removes waterproof makeup. When removing eye makeup, to prevent impurities from spreading on the skin, first apply the oil all over your face, then cleanse the eye area last." This thoughtful consideration reveals a distinctly feminine sensibility. It's why it feels so pleasant to use and makes you want to reach for it again.
"Fashion, too, has different perspectives between female and male designers. What men create often has strong fantasy elements or power, but sometimes the sleeves are a bit difficult to put on, or there are no pockets... When women create, they do so from a female perspective, placing pockets in convenient locations, or appreciating the usefulness of small dividers in a bag. The calm perspective that says, 'We can't just live in fantasy all the time in our daily lives' can be a lifesaver."
There are things only AYAKO, as a woman, a Japanese person, and a makeup artist, can do. She is also enthusiastic about future skincare developments.
"Instead of simply releasing a full line of skincare, I want to create products that enrich the lifestyle of jet-setters. Perhaps a special serum to reach for when tired, or a face pack to use on an airplane. I always want to create innovative things that women genuinely need."
Page02.The Hazy Journey
ADDICTION
Creative Director AYAKO: Special Interview
This Autumn, ADDICTION Enters Its Next Stage (2)
The Hazy Journey
AYAKO always sets a "travel destination" to find inspiration for new collections. Sometimes she uses her familiar New York as a setting, and other times she draws inspiration from uncharted territories. For the 2016 Autumn/Winter collection, ADDICTION is heading to Scandinavia.
"Just as I was contemplating the theme for the collection, I visited the home of my friend, stylist Patricia Field. She's someone who loves ADDICTION. When I confided, 'I'm struggling with what kind of world to depict next,' she asked, 'Do you have any hazy colors?' It occurred to me that ADDICTION might have many clear colors, and I became interested in creating HAZY—hazy, ambiguous colors."
Where would be a place that suits the word HAZY? AYAKO immediately felt that "Scandinavia" was the answer. Surprisingly, she had never actually visited, and it was precisely her image of Scandinavia that fueled her imagination for a HAZY world.
"Using Scandinavia and HAZY as my guides, I conducted virtual journeys (research). Then, I stumbled upon a portrait. It depicted a woman with a melancholic expression, carrying a sense of ephemerality, yet possessing a refined strength. The colors were hazy, evoking autumn. From the bordeaux color of the lips to the accent of blue, it was the perfect image I was seeking."
From Finland to Japan
The artist of that painting was Helene Schjerfbeck (July 10, 1862 – January 23, 1946) from Finland. AYAKO, who was about to have a photoshoot in Paris at the time, considered traveling to Finland to see the original. However, upon contacting Finnish museums, she learned that the specific painting was in the collection of the Finnish National Gallery Ateneum, and many of her other works were on loan. It turned out that a retrospective exhibition was touring Japan.
"So, while I haven't yet encountered that particular painting, I was able to see many of her works at a museum in Hayama. From her worldview, I've elevated the ADDICTION woman image to be both nostalgic and modern. With tones like HAZY and antique as the main theme, I've created color creations that breathe life into portraits. In particular, the gradient colors that symbolize this season, inspired by the first portrait I saw—the bordeaux lipstick, brown eyeshadow, and pink-beige nail polish—are all named 'MODERN NOSTALGIA.' It's unusual to have the same name for different colors, but..."
A World of "Mottled" Patterns, Each Unique
HAZY colors are difficult to translate into products. The hazy world is filled with a misty light. If you add shimmering pearls, the unique matte feel of HAZY colors disappears.
"ADDICTION's eyeshadows prioritize ease of use as color items. Adding pearls improves skin adhesion and application, but in a HAZY world, that balance is difficult... While I was pondering this, the method of scattering colored pearls, which the research team had been experimenting with, perfectly suited the worldview. For example, in the forest green color 'Dancer in the Dark,' large red pearls are used. By making the light appear in dots rather than as a surface, and in 'Volcano,' an earth-orange, we achieved a 'unique, mottled HAZY finish' without compromising usability."
Each pattern is different, offering a unique, one-of-a-kind world, much like paintings or ceramics. The HAZY nuance common to the impressive color lineup is far from a dull or lackluster finish. The exquisite color payoff brings out a sophisticated expression.
"Actually, this 'painting' story has a continuation, leading into next spring. And it involves another Scandinavian painter. I hope you'll enjoy it as a series."
MODERN NOSTALGIA
Lipstick Pure
Colors | 2 New Shades, 3 Limited Edition Shades
Price | ¥2,800 each (excluding tax)
Release Date | August 5 (Friday)
The Eye Shadow
Colors | 6 Limited Edition Shades
Price | ¥2,000 each (excluding tax)
Release Date | August 5 (Friday)
Blush
Colors | 3 Limited Edition Shades
Price | ¥2,800 each (excluding tax)
Release Date | August 5 (Friday)
Nail Polish
Colors | 6 Limited Edition Shades
Price | ¥1,800 each (excluding tax)
Release Date | August 5 (Friday)
Top Coat
Colors | 3 Limited Edition Shades
Price | ¥1,800 each (excluding tax)
Release Date | August 5 (Friday)
AYAKO
A makeup artist based in New York. She has worked with renowned photographers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Steven Meisel, and Terry Richardson for international fashion magazines, advertising campaigns, and collections. She has a large following among Hollywood celebrities like Penélope Cruz, Scarlett Johansson, and Anne Hathaway, as well as top models like Naomi Campbell. In the music world, she has also worked on album covers and music videos for artists such as Alicia Keys and Jennifer Lopez. In 2009, she became Creative Director and launched ADDICTION.
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