Beauty
March 6, 2015
Episode 19: Saburo Watanabe's Facial Rejuvenation Techniques
Saburo Oh x Hiromi Kobayashi
“Visiting the Saburo Oh World” (3)
While studying the “Shibayama Method Facial Technique” at Shibayama Beauty Salon, I was suddenly scouted by a film crew and plunged headfirst into a career with a foreign-sounding name.
Based on his youth, which Saburo Oh himself describes as “privileged,” he discusses the current era.
Arrangement and Text: Harumi SomeyaPhotography: Keiko Ideguchi
Facial techniques are a professional field
KobayashiYou mentioned earlier that you joined Shibayama Beauty Salon because you could learn the “Shibayama Method Facial Technique.” What exactly is that technique?
Saburo OhIt’s facial massage. Though, at the time, the word “esthetic” wasn’t widely known, so we called it “bihou” (beautifying the face).
“Bihou” is performed entirely by hand. In addition to the large muscles of the face, there are nearly 30 thin, membrane-like muscles. They are all separate and not connected, yet they influence each other. They create expressions through this interaction. The person performing the massage understands this mechanism. In fact, they cannot perform it without understanding it. It must not be done haphazardly. It is a highly professional field.
Hand massage is very powerful. But power alone is not enough; preparatory massage is needed before and after, or as a transition between intense massages. This serves to gently stroke, caress, and soothe. Adjacent to this is “lymphatic drainage.”
KobayashiThat’s a technique to promote lymph flow, isn’t it?
Saburo OhThat’s right. In any case, there are various techniques in massage.
Then one day, I was suddenly scouted by a film crew
Saburo OhAt that time, Shibayama Beauty Salon had a film crew, and just as I had learned all the theories and techniques of facial beautification, I was called to join them.
KobayashiIt’s starting to connect to the present, isn’t it?
Saburo OhPhotographers like Yoshihiro Taki were emerging, and careers with foreign-sounding names, starting with photographers, were beginning to be recognized by society. I was only 20 at the time.
KobayashiA pure young man (laughs).
Saburo OhThat’s right (laughs). In the photography department, Ms. Sachiko Shibayama (now Ms. Sachiko Kawabe) was active as a makeup artist. Since she was a graduate of an art university, her approach to makeup was a bit different. It was as if she was doing whatever she wanted freely. For example, she used crayons.
Crayons from Caran d'Ache, a Swiss stationery manufacturer, are non-toxic even if a baby puts them in their mouth. So, I mixed them with foundation to create colors and apply them. That’s where I learned finger techniques.
I learned orthodox massage techniques from Ms. Miyoka Shibayama and makeup artistry that involved creating looks like painting from Ms. Sachiko. I think that was fortunate. Because I was completely pure, everything I saw entered me directly.
KobayashiThat’s the origin of Saburo Oh as a hair and makeup artist, isn’t it?
Saburo OhI was able to go to various photo shoots then, as an assistant. So, I saw the work of many amazing people there too. I absorbed it like a sponge at a time when I didn’t yet have the ability to judge who was good or who I liked.
KobayashiYou were truly blessed in terms of the era and environment, in all aspects.
Saburo OhI really was. It wasn’t insular, nor was it a transitional period. Because society was moving in that direction, everyone was open.
From an era of freedom to an era of restriction
Saburo OhCareers like makeup artist, nail technician, and esthetician were gradually becoming licensed, but in the past, there was nothing like that at all. Stylists would do makeup, and there were various combinations. It was free.
It’s deeply regrettable that it’s becoming increasingly restricted. With the declining birthrate, companies likely want to establish their businesses by creating various restrictions to secure personnel, but...
KobayashiThat’s a trend that seems good on the surface but is bad for society as a whole.
Saburo OhIt’s not good at all. While there might be a sense of security in terms of customer assurance or the guarantee of one’s community, is that truly the right way?
KobayashiIt means confining things within the framework of regulations. That happens very often now.
Saburo OhThat’s the case for 98.5% of the world. So, we can only bet on the remaining 1.5%. It’s a truly sad world.
KobayashiI’ve been feeling that very strongly myself lately.
Saburo OhIt’s as if being eliminated is considered a virtue. Because it’s majority rule, our way of thinking loses.
There are surveys, aren’t there? I used to produce for a certain cosmetics brand, and even though we were the ones communicating the message, they would say, “This is the result of the survey.” That defeats the purpose of producing. So, I quit.
KobayashiAnd now you are developing your own brand, ‘wAtOSA,’ aren’t you?
Profile
Saburo Oh
Began his career in 1971, primarily in commercials and magazines. As a pioneer of hair and makeup artistry in Japan, he established its position. Currently, he is active in a wide range of fields, including the development and production of his original brand ‘wAtOSA,’ as well as magazines and advertisements. He is widely known as the foremost authority in hair and makeup, both in name and reality. His exceptional skills and sensibility have earned him deep trust from models and actresses. He presides over the hair salon “SASHU” and the makeup school “W・326 STUDIO.”