WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
March 1, 2016
Christophe Claret | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon: Live Report | CHRISTOPHE CLARET
CHRISTOPHE CLARET
Christophe Claret: Pushing the Boundaries of Mechanical Watchmaking (1)
While nine new brands joined the Geneva Salon this year, Christophe Claret is known for its continuous development of incredibly complex mechanisms. The brand has long presented intricate models for men, but in 2014, it unveiled "Margot," its first creation for women. This year, they presented the second iteration, "Marguerite."
Text by KAWADA Akinori
The Luxury of Pure Mechanical Timepieces
With the previous model, "Margot," pressing a button at 2 o'clock would randomly hide the central petals, simultaneously revealing the wearer's romantic prospects on the dial, much like a game of 'he loves me, he loves me not.'
Promotional movie for the previous model, "Margot"
The new "Marguerite" retains the button at 2 o'clock, but its subsequent action is slightly different. The hour markers disappear, and the message "He loves me passionately" is displayed. Upon releasing the button, the markers reappear. The index area features two superimposed, mosaic-patterned discs. The upper disc is semi-transparent and rotates at a slight angle when the button is pressed. This reveals the message through the interplay of the overlapping mosaic patterns. The design is ingeniously crafted so that when the button is pressed, the discs return to their original position, revealing the hour markers through their patterned arrangement.
Beyond this intricate mechanism, the decoration also reflects a feminine sensibility. Butterflies set at the tips of the slender hour and minute hands, diamonds on the lugs and bezel—the watch is filled with romance, appealing directly to a woman's heart.
Marguerite
Case | 18K white gold, set with a total of 100 diamonds
Diameter | 42.5mm
Thickness | 12.07mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.MT115)
Functions | Message and index switching function (via rotating discs)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 30 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Estimated Price | 13,000,000 JPY (excluding tax)
Page02.The Islamic Holy Land Appears at the Center of the Dial
CHRISTOPHE CLARET
Christophe Claret: Pushing the Boundaries of Mechanical Watchmaking (2)
The Islamic Holy Land Appears at the Center of the Dial
The "Aventicum," introduced in 2015, was a testament to original complication. It was a watch paying homage to the Roman museum in Avenches, Switzerland, the ancient Roman capital. The center of the dial featured a cylindrical space housing a sculpture of Marcus Aurelius, known as a wise emperor of the Roman Empire. Thanks to a special structure called a mirror scope surrounding the statue, the sculpture appears to float when viewed from different angles through the center of the dial.
With such a unique structure placed at the center of the dial and movement, one cannot help but wonder about the arrangement of the gear train and the mechanism that drives the hands.
The new "Mecca" watch features a newly designed sculpture motif appearing at the center of the timepiece.
Mecca, the holy city of Islam, is located in Saudi Arabia. Muslims are required to make a pilgrimage there at least once in their lifetime, and devout Muslims worldwide perform daily prayers facing Mecca. Within Mecca lies the Grand Mosque, a sacred site, and within its grounds is a cubic structure called the Kaaba. It houses the Black Stone, considered Islam's most sacred relic, embedded in one of its corners.
In this "Mecca" watch, the Kaaba appears at the center of the timepiece. Its beautifully proportioned, stone-like construction, combined with the dial's intricate patterns, creates a mystical appearance, imbuing the watch with a sense of cultural depth.
In recent times, the Middle East situation has become increasingly complex, with refugee crises and terrorism straining relations with Europe. However, this wristwatch expresses respect for Islam, a fundamentally peaceful religion. Coupled with Switzerland's own character, it serves as a model that prompts deep contemplation of the world.
Mecca
Case | Grade 5 titanium with anthracite PVD coating
Diameter | 44mm
Thickness | 18.49mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.AVE15)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 63 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Estimated Price | 9,000,000 JPY (excluding tax)
Page03.Enhancing the Jewelry Line with Complications Featuring Classical Mechanisms
CHRISTOPHE CLARET
Christophe Claret: Pushing the Boundaries of Mechanical Watchmaking (3)
Enhancing the Jewelry Line with Complications Featuring Classical Mechanisms
The "Allegro," introduced in 2015, is known as a multi-functional model equipped with a minute repeater, GMT, and big date. At this year's SIHH, a special jewelry-adorned version of this timepiece was also unveiled.
The minute repeater, which chimes the current time upon activation of a push-button at any moment, is considered one of the most complex complications. The "Allegro" is particularly noted for its meticulous attention to the quality of its chime.
Furthermore, drawing inspiration from historical timepieces, it employs the Louis XIV style, featuring a three-dimensional, architectural layout of the gear train. It even incorporates a constant force mechanism, which supplies a consistent level of power to the escapement until the mainspring is nearly unwound, ensuring stable torque. For this exceptional watch, a unique piece has been created, adorned with 36 baguette diamonds on the bezel and 12 on the lugs. Its sheer luxury makes it truly deserving of the "special" designation.
Allegro
Case | 18K white gold + anthracite PVD-coated titanium, set with 36 baguette diamonds on the bezel and 12 on the lugs
Diameter | 45mm
Thickness | 14.11mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal.ALG89)
Functions | Minute repeater, GMT display (sub-dial at 3 o'clock), day/night indicator, date display (big date via two discs)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 1 piece
Release Date | Undetermined
Estimated Price | Undetermined







