The Maison's 230th Anniversary: Head Jewelry Reimagined as Rings

"I don't look 230 at all, do I?" said Lionel Giraud, Vice President of Creation, Marketing & Communications at CHAUMET, with a smile. Holding the new "Joséphine" collection, Giraud spoke about CHAUMET's profound connection with tiaras.

"This year marks CHAUMET's 230th anniversary, and over its long history, the Maison has created 2,500 pieces of head jewelry, including tiaras and aigrettes. The most famous is the crown made for Napoleon's coronation. The tiara gifted to Empress Joséphine, CHAUMET's first client, which also serves as the inspiration for these 'tiara rings,' is another legend. For CHAUMET, head jewelry, especially tiaras, represents the very identity of the Maison."

Giraud had harbored the idea of transforming tiaras into rings long before the 230th anniversary.

"People don't wear tiaras in their daily lives today. But tiaras are incredibly important to CHAUMET. That's why I've always thought about creating a 'tiara that can be worn every day.' As a result, I came to believe that a ring would be the best way to express the essence of a tiara. It happened to coincide with our 230th anniversary, but it actually took two and a half years from conceiving the idea to bringing the jewelry to life."

CHAUMET's creations are always "timeless," transcending trends yet incorporating a subtle contemporary touch. Giraud explained that finding this balance was exceptionally challenging.

"Deciding to turn a tiara into a ring was the first step, but the real challenge began afterward. The image of a tiara is inherently 'princess-like.' When translated into a small ring, it could easily look like a child's ring. For a prestigious house like CHAUMET, a 'cute' ring is unacceptable. We sought designs that were more powerful and expressive... and this process was repeated. For instance, this ring I'm showing you now required 25 prototypes before the final decision."

Engagement Rings Symbolizing "Power of Love"

"Attrape-moi" (Catch Me), evoking the dance of courtship; "Le Grand Frisson" (The Great Thrill), depicting the moment of falling in love; "Lien de Chaumet" (Bond of Chaumet), signifying a deep connection... CHAUMET has consistently expressed love through its jewelry. The "Joséphine" collection also serves as an "engagement ring," a symbol of a cherished promise. "We wanted to evolve the design of classic engagement rings like solitaires," Giraud shared his vision.

"The meaning imbued in jewelry is also very important. The theme for "Joséphine" is 'Power of Love.' The collection comprises 30 pieces, not only tiara-inspired but also featuring aigrettes and bandeau designs. Since head jewelry is close to divine, each piece must exude a noble impression when worn. Furthermore, we aimed for designs that one would want to wear forever as an engagement ring. These two intertwined rings, for example, look as if they are stacked. They incorporate a classical yet slightly new concept, skillfully expressing CHAUMET's contemporary touch."

Giraud expressed his wish for wearers to truly enjoy these rings.
"When the tiara is worn pointing upwards, it signifies 'I have found my one.' It's a symbol of marriage. Conversely, when worn pointing downwards, it means 'I am searching for my prince.' CHAUMET has continued to create jewelry centered on the theme of love. These tiara rings are infused with many ideas related to love."

Designs Requiring Sophisticated Taste, Endless Creation

The "Joséphine" collection features two lines: high-end and basic. Giraud smiles as he admits that creating the more accessible basic line was the most challenging. Yet, it is precisely because of the creative struggle that he holds this accessible line particularly dear.

"When the stones become smaller, the style tends to become more delicate. However, mere delicacy cannot convey CHAUMET's elegance and identity. The more accessible the line, the more sophisticated design sensibility is required. I have focused on three things at CHAUMET. First, accurately conveying the history of a prestigious Maison. Second, expressing meticulous craftsmanship in all jewelry, regardless of stone size, from hundreds of millions to under one million yen. Third, consistently creating both the highest-end pieces and accessible basic lines within any given theme. While some might present the high-end pieces first and the basic line years later, CHAUMET does not. To pursue the essence of CHAUMET, we create everything from high-end to accessible pieces under a common theme simultaneously—that is my role."

Giraud is already engrossed in his next creation.

"Once a collection is complete, my attention immediately shifts to the next one. Like a child who quickly wants a new toy. Perhaps it's the jeweler's bloodline inherited from my father, who was in the silverware business. The next piece? Perhaps 'When Love Ends'? Or 'Widow's Jewelry'? Jewelry creation is truly endless. Isn't it a fascinating world?"