A LEON Perspective on the Bulgari "Octo" Collection

BVLGARI

A New Masterpiece Blending the Golden Ratio of Beauty

The Bulgari "Octo," with its distinctive octagonal design, has become a new design standard for watches. This time, the editors-in-chief of three magazines—LEON, MEN'S CLUB, and SENSE—appear in coordinates inspired by its new models. They share the charm of the "Octo" from various perspectives, discussing design and values, and what a watch means to a man.

Photographs by KOBAYASHI Takashi (ITARU studio)Text by ITO Yuji (OPENERS)

LEON Editor-in-Chief Maeda's Perspective on the Golden Ratio of the "Octo"

Bulgari and LEON's relationship goes back to the magazine's founding. What we share is an Italian design foundation, enhanced with sensuality and allure, underpinned by the values and history of luxury.
What LEON proposes is not to imitate Italian fashion, but an Italian lifestyle that encourages enjoying fashion and celebrating life with a focus on individual items. I believe the Bulgari brand embodies this Italian lifestyle.

LEON Editor-in-Chief Maeda

Bulgari watches are not like any other; they possess a very unique design code. The iconic "Bulgari Bulgari" is a prime example. I believe that watch was designed from the perspective of men's jewelry, but the "Octo" was designed with a completely different approach. From the movement to the case design, all elements adhere to a beautiful watch design code. I suspect Bulgari's intention to "create authentic watches ourselves" is subtly present behind this. That's why I found it so captivating and its design so innovative when I first saw it.

Recently, I've been drawn to smaller watches

Personally, I actually prefer this 38mm version over the initially released model.
The reason the 38mm feels right is that in the 1950s, around the time men's watch design was perfected, 35mm was the standard. After that, watches became larger with the addition of various functions, but in recent years, there's been a shift back towards simplicity.

In this context, I feel the 38mm size aligns better with the design code of watches as they were evolving. A more futuristic design might suit a case larger than 40mm, but for the "Octo's" design, a slightly smaller size under 40mm seems to enhance its density and provide a more refined presence.

The combination of satin and polished finishes on the case, along with the edgy lugs, creates a somewhat futuristic feel—similar to current automotive design trends that emphasize sharp edges. Yet, the overall impression is very traditional. This means that despite combining different elements, they are all fundamentally classic, preventing any discord. By incorporating contemporary details, it appears entirely new.

The Appeal of an Updated Classic

Today's theme was coordinating with this "Octo Bi-Retro," but I don't feel the aura or atmosphere emanating from this watch is entirely new. It seems to be the result of meticulously refining classic elements and then infusing them with a contemporary sensibility, creating something entirely novel.
Similarly, the stylish fashion that LEON advocates today isn't about seeking out the radically new. Instead, we share with our readers the value of taking something basic and making it suddenly new by refining its details and silhouette, adding new fabrics, or incorporating innovative cuts and design elements.

The styling is also not overly ostentatious. While it uses new details and fabrics, the traditional nature of the items allows for straightforward wearability. This outfit is a prime example: a jacket made of "Techno Merino," a natural wool enhanced with modern technology for breathability, temperature regulation, and wrinkle resistance, paired with cotton pants that have a lustrous finish, reminiscent of nylon. The overall look appears very contemporary, yet it maintains the composure and sophistication befitting a mature gentleman.

Pairing with the Bi-Color "Octo SS"

With the standard "Octo" in yellow gold and stainless steel, the design becomes even simpler. The bar indices, the placement of the crown and calendar—everything follows a beautiful design code. However, the overall execution of the edges is very strong. For this watch, I think a more casual style would be more appropriate, perhaps with a nylon parka, sweatpants with ribbed cuffs, and sneakers. Pairing it with a standard suit might feel a bit too conventional (laughs).
Even the strap design has a generally curved shape, but each individual component is straight. This is why I think it pairs well with relaxed outfits. Furthermore, the finishing is incredibly intricate. The buckle, for instance, mixes matte and polished finishes, showcasing a sophisticated approach to edge detailing.

If I could make one wish for the "Octo Bi-Retro," it would be for a hand-wound model. A thin, hand-wound version of this design would feel even more contemporary. Even a simple face would suffice. Instead of competing in the thinness race, I'm curious about what new designs could emerge by shaving off another 3 or 4 millimeters.
Another advantage of pink gold is its excellent compatibility with brown tones. Even if the strap is black and you're wearing brown shoes, the gold effectively bridges the gap, making it a versatile color. I believe the "Octo Bi-Retro" possesses the allure and sophistication befitting the image of the mature man that LEON envisions.