Grand Seiko Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 | Part 2: Movement Development Starting from Components
Watch & Jewelry
April 1, 2015

Grand Seiko Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 | Part 2: Movement Development Starting from Components


Grand Seiko Mechanical High-Beat 36000|Grand Seiko Mechanical High-Beat 36000


Part 2: The Power of the Human Hand in Movement Development


This year, Seiko unveiled the "Grand Seiko Mechanical High-Beat 36000," a high-beat model with 36,000 vibrations per hour. This watch is the result of dedicated, steady development focused on creating a practical timepiece. At the heart of this mechanical watch lies the power of the human hand, carefully nurtured by Seiko.

By Aki NagamiPhoto by Jamandfix




Design Changes Reflecting Practical Watchmaking Principles



The new "Grand Seiko Mechanical High-Beat 36000" was announced this year. It's a high-beat model that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and the first such development by the company in approximately 40 years, since 1968. Shuichiro Seki from Seiko Watch's Marketing Department, whom we spoke with, has been involved with Grand Seiko for over a decade and naturally participated in this high-beat model's planning from the outset.

"With this 10-beat model, we wanted everyone to know that Seiko consistently focuses on practical watches. To convey that, a mechanical watch is essential. It's precisely because it's a mechanical watch, assembled and adjusted by human hands, that we can communicate the value of Grand Seiko's practical timepieces. This watch may not possess the eye-catching beauty or rare features of an expensive, one-of-a-kind piece. However, it is born from the power of the human hand, something Seiko has always cherished."




The "human hand" that Mr. Seki speaks of is evident in the design modifications around the escapement for the high-beat function. The caliber "9S85"搭載 is a 10-beat version of the "9S series" movement, originally redesigned in 1998 with 8 beats per hour. Typically, increasing to 10 beats involves increasing the number of teeth on the escape wheel, which can lead to variations in tooth engagement. Concerned about potentially compromising quality in pursuit of higher precision, Seiko opted not to increase the escape wheel's teeth but instead added an intermediate wheel to the train.

The escape wheel and pallet fork of this watch feature state-of-the-art MEMS (a type of micro-electroforming) technology to enhance dimensional accuracy. This approach, which embraces design ingenuity and high technology without being bound by conventional methods to achieve mass production of 10-beat movements, can be considered unique to Grand Seiko, a brand dedicated to "practical watches."



Shuichiro Seki of Seiko Watch's Marketing Department. He has been involved with "Grand Seiko" since 1997. "Within Seiko, Grand Seiko is produced within the longest-term narrative," says Mr. Seki. Consequently, communication among the staff is highly intensive, and the team works together as one. He happily shared that the new model has been well-received even by discerning retail staff.





A New Mainspring Forged by History



With the increased speed of the balance wheel, the mainspring required 1.5 times the torque of the conventional 9S. Mr. Seki states that the development of this mainspring was the most memorable and, above all, the most "Seiko-like" aspect.

"The development of the mainspring was the most challenging part, as the conventional one couldn't provide enough torque. This mainspring's development is also the most characteristic of Seiko. As a brand aiming for the pinnacle of practical watches, developing materials and creating high-quality components is a constant challenge and our greatest strength. It took several years solely for the development of the spring material, in collaboration with Tohoku University's Institute for Materials Research and the Institute of Multidisciplinary Research for Advanced Materials. However, the fundamental principle is to create something that can be cherished for a long time. In total, the mainspring development took six years. I believe this was achievable because Seiko has always manufactured its core component, the mainspring, in-house."


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The "Grand Seiko Mechanical High-Beat 36000" gleams on Mr. Seki's wrist.





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Shuichiro Seki of Seiko Watch's Marketing Department.





Despite housing a newly developed mechanical movement that required such extensive effort, this high-beat model maintains the quintessential Grand Seiko style without ostentatious design claims. "We deliberately suppressed the urge to show off," Mr. Seki says with a smile.

"At first glance, this watch may seem understated, but it actually embodies and fully utilizes Seiko's tradition. From the gear train design of the escape wheel born from collaboration with designers, to the MEMS technology, and the mainspring development that represents the brand's manufacturing philosophy itself – in all these aspects, we have successfully expressed the "Seiko Style." Furthermore, by developing this new caliber now, it will serve as a guidepost for the next era. In fact, that is one of our significant objectives."
"I believe that mechanical watches are things that people nurture with their own hands." Mr. Seki concluded with a cheerful tone.

Seiko Watch
http://www.seiko-watch.co.jp
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