Series: Masahata Seiji - Part 4: The Joy of Custom-Made Watches (Part 2)
Watch & Jewelry
April 13, 2015

Series: Masahata Seiji - Part 4: The Joy of Custom-Made Watches (Part 2)


Series | Masaharu Nabata


Part 4: The Joy of Custom-Made Watches (Part 2)


A high-quality modified wristwatch, created by adapting a small pocket watch into a wristwatch. This is an example of such an idea brought to life.
I finally discovered it online.


Text and photos by Masaharu Nabata




Discovering Treasures Online!



Having been satisfied with modifying the "Samuel Kirk & Son" watch into a wristwatch, I began to search more earnestly for watches that could serve as a base for custom-made pieces. In the process, I acquired several movements, but these would require new cases to be made. This, of course, involves time and cost. As I pondered what to do, I found this watch on an online auction.

It was a small gold wristwatch, manufactured by the Swiss manufacture "C.H. Meylan" and sold by the long-established Philadelphia jeweler "Bailey Banks & Biddle."

An Old Method of Modification



As you can see, this watch has the crown where the 3 o'clock position would normally be on a wristwatch, and the small seconds subdial is placed where the 9 o'clock position would be. In other words, this was originally a ladies' pendant watch to which lugs were added to transform it into a wristwatch. This modification appears to have been done quite some time ago, not recently.

The idea of adapting a ladies' pocket watch into a wristwatch is not my exclusive invention; it has actually been a technique employed for a very long time.

About Bailey Banks & Biddle



When I first saw the movement of this watch online, I thought it was a Patek Philippe. That's how high the quality of this watch is.

Fortunately, I won the auction, and upon receiving and examining it, I discovered it was made in Meylan's workshop in the Swiss Jura Valley. It is undoubtedly a masterpiece and of high quality, belonging to the top class of Swiss watches.

And, of course, I was curious about the jeweler that sold this watch, "Bailey Banks & Biddle." Researching online, I found that, like Samuel Kirk & Son, it was a silversmith and jeweler founded in 1832.

Around the end of the 19th century, Bailey Banks & Biddle began selling specially ordered watches from Swiss manufacturers such as Patek Philippe, Meylan, and Longines, becoming one of America's leading long-established luxury jewelers.

I also own a Patek Philippe pocket watch bearing the company's name. Incidentally, the company is still in business today.


The Meylan movement is of exceptionally high quality, though some rhodium plating is peeling on a bridge.
The material, visible where the plating has worn off, is German silver, used in high-end watches.
Hand-engraved with "Adjusted to five positions. 18 jewels," it keeps accurate time.



Focus on Custom-Made



Recently, the prices of old, small pocket watches, used as bases for such modifications, have been steadily rising. Similarly, small pocket watch movements are drawing attention as materials for custom-made pieces, making them significantly harder to obtain than before.

This phenomenon is regrettable for watch enthusiasts, but it proves that current watch prices have increased, making it difficult to acquire high-quality models without a substantial investment.

In that regard, movements without cases can be obtained relatively affordably. If one can arrange for a case to be made, there's the pleasure of obtaining one's own custom-made watch.

I have already acquired a considerable number of movements and plan to have watches made from them in the future. Of course, this requires capital, which is a persistent concern.