Van Cleef & Arpels | Timepieces with a Story
Watch & Jewelry
April 2, 2015

Van Cleef & Arpels | Timepieces with a Story


Van Cleef & Arpels


Full of Van Cleef & Arpels Character


Watches with a Story



Van Cleef & Arpels stands out in the world of watchmaking. This year's new releases include many innovative and noteworthy pieces. We spoke with Denis Giguet, Director of the Geneva Watchmaking Workshops at Van Cleef & Arpels, who visited Japan for the new collection's exhibition.



Text by RYOUJI FUKUTOMEPhotographs by Takaaki TSUKAHARA




Pierre Arpels' First Complicated Movement


Van Cleef & Arpels has a long history as a jeweler. Its approach to watchmaking sets it apart from other brands.

“Our watches are, first and foremost, about the story. They don't just tell time; they express a narrative that unfolds over time.”

Denis Giguet, Director of the Watchmaking Workshops, explained that this is the reason Van Cleef & Arpels creates watches with such unique character and atmosphere. He added, “To tell such stories, one must possess a high level of technical skill.”



327_van_cleef_and_arpels_665_34

Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs




van_cleef_and_arpels_327_16

Denis Giguet, Director of the Watchmaking Workshops





From the new models presented at this year's Geneva Salon, Denis Giguet introduced two pieces he is particularly proud of. One is the “Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs.” This dual-time watch, named “Time here & Time elsewhere,” displays the time in two different locations. It is a unique timepiece, characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels.



“This is the first time a complicated movement has been incorporated into the Pierre Arpels collection at Van Cleef & Arpels. The upper window shows the time here, and the lower window shows the time elsewhere. The minutes are displayed in a retrograde manner. This collection is elegant and classic.


The key is to incorporate a complicated movement while faithfully adhering to that aesthetic. This is not an easy feat, as it must be housed within a slim case to maintain the Pierre Arpels signature style.”



van_cleef_and_arpels_327_20



Therefore, a new movement was developed. As it is an automatic winding watch, a micro-rotor is embedded in the bridge, allowing it to be perfectly housed within a case measuring 42mm in diameter and 7.97mm in thickness. Looking at the movement through the case back, one can appreciate how effectively the space has been utilized.

“The story behind this model is about ‘Pierre Arpels, a man admired by all within the Maison's founding family, traveling the world.’ Therefore, ease of use and the ability to quickly understand the time in two different zones were paramount. That's why we opted for Arabic numerals for the time display. Both ‘time here’ and ‘time elsewhere’ are shown in small windows with Arabic numerals. It's very simple and easy to understand, isn't it? Displaying dual times with double numerals is also a first in watchmaking history.”



Van Cleef & Arpels


Full of Van Cleef & Arpels Character


Watches with a Story (2)




Capturing the Cosmos in a Case


This year's theme for Van Cleef & Arpels is 'Poetic Astronomy.' Astronomy is a field filled with dreams, and expressing it requires exceptional technical skill. It is a domain where Van Cleef & Arpels can truly showcase its unique identity.

Among these, the “Midnight Planetarium” stands out as this year's most unique model.

“We created this model with the ambition of enclosing the universe within a watch case. It actually displays the movements of the planets in our solar system: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. Such orreries, or planetariums, existed in the 18th century. We wanted to recreate that in a wristwatch.”



van_cleef_and_arpels_327_22

Midnight Planetarium



van_cleef_and_arpels_327_23



This model accurately synchronizes the positions of each planet, rendering them on the dial with precious stones and metals.

“The planets on the dial orbit the central sun according to their actual periods. Saturn, located on the outermost edge, takes over 29 years to complete one revolution.”

It presents a grand cosmic spectacle, a truly astronomical watch. Yet, Van Cleef & Arpels' focus, as always, was on user-friendliness.


van_cleef_and_arpels_327_28

van_cleef_and_arpels_327_31



“Although this model has a highly complex mechanism, the biggest challenge was making the date setting, and other adjustments, as simple as possible. After all, a function is meaningless if it cannot be used.”

Incidentally, the case diameter of the Midnight Planetarium is 44mm, and its thickness is 13.48mm. Despite housing so many elements, it remains remarkably slim.

“It absolutely must be elegant.”

This core principle of Van Cleef & Arpels is meticulously upheld here as well.



van_cleef_and_arpels_9090_profile


Denis Giguet
After beginning his career as an engineer, he gained recognition in the world of high watchmaking. Leveraging his extensive experience with various prestigious jewelry and watch brands, he brings a groundbreaking approach to developing innovative luxury watches at Van Cleef & Arpels.







Van Cleef & Arpels


Full of Van Cleef & Arpels Character


Watches with a Story (3)




This Year's New Watch Collection Presented at SIHH


Finally, we would like to introduce the latest watch collection from Van Cleef & Arpels, showcased at the prestigious watchmaking event "S.I.H.H. (Salon International Haute Horlogerie)," commonly known as the Geneva Salon, held in Geneva this January. In addition to the aforementioned "Midnight Planetarium" and "Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs," the brand unveiled pieces brimming with its signature charm, employing traditional decorative techniques.


van_cleef_and_arpels_215_25


Midnight Planetarium
ミッドナイト プラネタリウム



Case | 18K Pink Gold
Diameter | 44mm
Movement | Automatic, special module developed in collaboration with Christiaan van der Klaauw
Power Reserve | Approx. 48 hours
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥27,432,000 (incl. tax)
Release | Scheduled for Winter



Time is indicated by a comet on the outer rim, completing a full rotation in 24 hours. Additionally, a star-shaped marker on the crystal serves as a unique mechanism to display special dates, such as birthdays, and it uniquely aligns once a year to signify that special day. The calendar adjustment indicator is located on the case back.






van_cleef_and_arpels_215_34


Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs
ピエール アーペル ユール ディシ エ ユール ダイヨール



Case | 18K White Gold
Diameter | 42mm
Movement | Automatic
Power Reserve | Approx. 48 hours
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥4,347,000
Release | Scheduled for Winter



The Pierre Arpels collection is based on a dress watch conceived by Pierre Arpels, who was stylish and loved to travel, in 1949. The 2014 new model is a unique dual-time watch featuring a jumping hour complication. This simple and elegant model is equipped with a movement specially developed for Van Cleef & Arpels.






van_cleef_and_arpels_215_35


Pierre Arpels Platine
ピエール アーペル プラチナ



Case | Platinum
Diameter | 42mm
Movement | Manual-winding, Piaget Cal. 830P
Power Reserve | Approx. 60 hours
Water Resistance | 5 ATM
Price | ¥3,618,000
Release | Scheduled for Winter



The dress watch, originally conceived by Pierre Arpels in 1949, was revived in 2012. It features a simple dial design and case form. The distinctive lugs further enhance its elegance. This year, a platinum case model has been introduced. The brilliance of platinum is beautifully complemented by the black lacquer dial, which possesses a unique luster.






van_cleef_and_arpels_215_36


Midnight Nuit Boréale
ミッドナイト ニュイ ボレアル



Case | 18K White Gold
Diameter | 42mm
Movement | Automatic, Piaget Cal. 800P
Power Reserve | Approx. 72 hours
Water Resistance | 3 ATM
Price | ¥11,448,000 (incl. tax), Limited to 22 pieces worldwide
Release | Scheduled for Winter



The Extraordinaire Dials collection features artistic pieces employing traditional decorative techniques. The exquisite finishes, achieved through skills like enameling and engraving, are remarkable. This model uses only two colors of enamel to create a sense of depth, poetically depicting constellations.