A special journey to Toyama, a seafood paradise where a renowned fishing port meets a vibrant city, capturing the attention of gourmands worldwide.
TRAVEL | TOYAMA
Did you know that Toyama City was selected as one of the "52 Places to Go in 2025" by The New York Times last year? Toyama Prefecture, which is attracting global attention, is working on a "sushi" branding project that leverages its rich seafood resources.
We learned about its history of prosperity with Kitamaebune ships from the Edo to Meiji periods, visited the training grounds for future artisans, experienced the warmth of local people while enjoying sushi at casual night bars, and even followed the firefly squid fishing, which is in season now.
This report details our immersive experience of Toyama's charms.
Text & Photographs by KOICHI eriko
An Unforgettable Encounter with Toyama Bay Sushi
Iwasehama, located about 20 minutes by car from central Toyama City, offers a view of the majestic Tateyama mountain range in the background.
About two hours from Tokyo via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. As the announcement for disembarking approaches, if you glance out the window to the left, you'll see the snow-capped Tateyama mountain range, and to the right, the Sea of Japan drawing near. This quintessential Toyama scenery is sure to exhilarate anyone.
With hearts full of anticipation, our journey to unravel the allure of Toyama's sushi began.
Toyama Bay Sushi at "Ayumi Sushi Honke," ¥5,500 (normally available only for dinner)
Upon arrival, we immediately indulged in Toyama Bay Sushi. "Toyama Bay Sushi," offered at about 45 restaurants across the prefecture, consists of 10 pieces of sushi made with seasonal local fish from Toyama Bay, Toyama Prefecture's sushi rice, and a local Toyama-style soup.
With prices set between ¥2,700 and ¥5,500, it's a reassuring option for travelers.
Firefly squid, just in season. No matter how advanced distribution becomes, freshness is key for firefly squid, making it best enjoyed locally.
We visited "Ayumi Sushi Honke," located near Toyama Station. The 10 pieces that day included Gando-buri (young yellowtail), filefish, firefly squid pickled in kelp, and blackthroat seaperch. From the briny, melt-in-your-mouth buri, a remnant of winter, to the plump firefly squid, freshly caught after the season's opening, and the battleship roll topped with black yamaimo konbu, a soul food of Toyama, we spent a delightful time savoring these unique, once-in-a-lifetime sushi creations.
The fishing grounds and port are close, and the port is close to the city. We were convinced that the joy of encountering fresh ingredients, made possible by Toyama's unique geographical advantage, could only be experienced here.
A School Entrusted with the Future of Sushi Opens in the Historic Iwase Area
The "Former Baba Residence," a designated National Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Reflecting on the era when the area prospered with Kitamaebune ships.
The next destination, the port town of Iwase, near Toyama City, once flourished as a trading post for Kitamaebune ships. Strolling through the streets, preserved since the Meiji era, is fascinating, and highly recommended for architecture and history enthusiasts.
This spring, the "Hokuriku Sushi Academy," a school for training sushi chefs, opened in this historic area. Coincidentally, the opening ceremony was being held that day, highlighting the local excitement.
A schoolhouse unique to the Iwase district, revitalized from an old private house that was once a fishing tackle shop.
Affiliated with "Tokyo Sushi Academy," its greatest feature is the opportunity to learn in Toyama's unique and luxurious environment, handling the abundant and fresh seafood of Toyama Bay, and experiencing auctions and purchasing at nearby fishing ports.
Governor Nitta of Toyama Prefecture also gave a speech at the opening ceremony, expressing great expectations for the school as "a base for promoting Toyama's sushi culture nationwide and globally." This signifies the establishment of a foundation for nurturing future talent, supporting the branding of "Toyama as synonymous with sushi."
Experience 100 Types of Masuizumi Sake at Masuda Sake Brewery "Saseki"
The self-service style of picking your favorite brand from the refrigerator is exciting.
Delicious Japanese sake is inseparable from sushi, and in Iwase, there is the nationally renowned "Masuda Sake Brewery." We also visited "Saseki," where you can sample Masuda Sake Brewery's signature "Masuizumi" lineup in a self-service style.
Masuizumi, served even in top-tier sushi restaurants, was a pioneer of the ginjo sake boom. Here, you can sample about 100 types of sake, including limited editions only available at "Saseki" and collaboration products with a champagne maison.
The building, said to be a renovated residence of the Miyagi family, who were shipping merchants, offers a refreshing architectural experience, and the杉 tree standing tall inside as a symbol is also a must-see.
We enjoyed the 15-minute, ¥1,500 course (includes mineral water). The accompanying sake-lees-pickled firefly squid appetizer is also a must-try.
For Souvenirs of Toyama's Finest Sake, Visit "Tajiri Honten"
While the excitement from "Saseki" still lingered, we decided to pick up some souvenirs at a nearby liquor store. "Tajiri Honten" is a shop specializing in local Toyama sake, boasting an impressive cellar.
An overwhelming selection of sake and wine. The time spent choosing from the large cellar becomes a cherished memory.
The Richness of Toyama, Appreciated by the Chef of "Piatto Suzuki Cinque," an Italian Restaurant with Roots in Michelin-Starred Establishments
Passing through a stone gate reveals a restaurant with a terrace resembling a Noh stage, surrounded by trees.
"Piatto Suzuki Cinque," an Italian restaurant located on the same premises as Masuda Sake's "Saseki," is helmed by owner-chef Goro Suzuki, another admirer of Toyama's ingredients.
The chef, who honed his skills at the renowned Tokyo restaurant "Piatto Suzuki," which has earned multiple Michelin stars, was drawn to Toyama's charm and relocated to open his own restaurant here.
Faithfully applying the fundamental techniques cultivated at "Piatto Suzuki," the chef elevates them into dishes that fully utilize Toyama's bounty, making it a popular restaurant bustling with guests from both within and outside the prefecture daily.
The snowmelt from the Tateyama mountain range nourishes the rice and sake, while the fertile soil produces robust vegetables. The ability to serve fresh seafood and mountain produce, caught and harvested on the same day, is a charm of Toyama that cannot be replicated in Tokyo, he explained.
Chef Suzuki, who has put down roots here with his humble demeanor and sincere cooking.
Sushi Meets Nightlife: A Unique Night Tour at "Sushiken Toyama"
As dusk settled, we headed to Sakuragi-cho, the entertainment district in central Toyama City. We experienced a night tour that the prefecture launched this March as one of its tourism offerings.
This unique tour allows participants to experience a deeper side of Toyama by being guided through the night streets by a local guide, hopping between two snack bars to enjoy sushi.
Sushi enjoyed at a local snack bar is exceptional.
The snack bar we visited that day was "bar Miyabi." It featured velvet sofas and a counter. In the dim light, a colorful mirror ball, reminiscent of the Showa era, rotated. The female staff greeted us with smiles from behind the counter... This is what a snack bar is all about!
The thrill of entering the world of a travel destination's snack bar, a place one might hesitate to enter alone, was palpable.
Opening the box of sushi provided, we found it packed with Toyama Bay delicacies: red snow crab nigiri, firefly squid pickled in brine, and white shrimp tempura.
Sushi served at the first bar. In addition to nigiri, there was also white shrimp tempura and firefly squid pickled in brine.
While sipping drinks, enjoying sushi, and occasionally bursting into laughter, we savored the unique atmosphere of the snack bar, listening to stories from the mama-san who returned to Toyama after working in Tokyo, and getting recommendations for local spots.
Although the combination of drinks and sushi at a snack bar was novel, the relaxed atmosphere allowed us to connect with Toyama's local warmth, doubling the enjoyment of the sushi.
At the second bar, we enjoyed sushi kamaboko (fish cake). The original plate was designed so that soy sauce flowed like water from a dam into Toyama Bay.
For a Complete Relaxation Experience, Stay at "Hotel Grand Mirage"
The sea view from the Spa Balnage. Since the facilities are switched between genders, guests have the privilege of experiencing both the sea and mountain views.
After satisfying our appetites and relaxing our minds, a perfect end to the day would be to soothe our fatigue in the hotel's sauna.
Our accommodation for the night was "Hotel Grand Mirage," located near Uozu Station. Many guests choose this hotel for its "Spa Balnage" on the upper floors.
The spa, supervised by Mikie Sasano, who was born into the family that runs "Sauna Shikiji," a sacred place for sauna enthusiasts, and who is involved in the production and PR of sauna and hot spring facilities, offers stunning views of both the mountains and the sea. The hotel also features art by contemporary artist Noritaka Tatehana, making it a spa that impresses sauna lovers.
We decided to spend time relaxing at the hotel's spa, preparing for the main event of the next day.
Witnessing the Traditional Firefly Squid Fishing, Woven by the Hands of Fishermen
The fixed-net firefly squid fishing, done manually by fishermen, is practiced only in Toyama in Japan.
At 3 AM, I found myself aboard a firefly squid fishing boat, the highlight of this trip. A fire was lit on the boat for warmth, and the fishermen were busy preparing for departure.
While normally one can observe the fishing from a tourist boat, this time I had the special opportunity to board a fishing vessel from the Namikawa Fishing Port.
Shortly after setting sail, we reached the first fishing ground. "Already?" I thought, but it was no surprise, as the fishing ground was only 1-2 km from the port.
The unique topography, where the seabed drops sharply beyond 1,000 meters from the shore, combined with the towering 3,000-meter-class Tateyama mountain range nearby, creates an environment that earns Toyama Bay the nickname "natural fish tank." It is home to about 500 of the approximately 800 species of fish and shellfish inhabiting the Sea of Japan.
I had imagined squid fishing boats illuminated by bare bulbs in the dark sea, but here, the lighting was modern LED. However, the fishing process itself was more analog than I expected. I was surprised to see the meticulous and patient work carried out by the fishermen, working together in unison.
The net, pulled in by hand, contained firefly squid and Japanese sardines, which had arrived late in their season.
Upon reaching the point where the net was set, the fishermen lined up along the edge of the boat and began hauling the net in, all at the same pace and by hand. As they worked silently and diligently in the cold sea, we began to see the reddish-purple firefly squid. Carefully scooped into a net, the firefly squid were immediately placed into storage baskets.
After being scooped with a net to minimize stress, they are stored on board to maintain their freshness.
This fixed-net fishing is a unique traditional method practiced only in Toyama. Because it is labor-intensive, the fish are less likely to be damaged, allowing them to be landed with exceptionally high freshness. It was a valuable experience that reaffirmed why delicious things are the way they are.
Once landed, the sorting process begins immediately. With incredible speed, they are separated by sex while checking for freshness.
After being landed at the Mizuhashi Fishing Port, the sorting is done quickly, and before we knew it, bidding had already begun nearby. All operations are carried out efficiently to ensure the freshness of the firefly squid.
When held, their light dims due to stress, but the photophores on their tips still glowed brightly.
In a space near the auction area, visitors can observe firefly squid glowing in large tanks.
These firefly squid were noticeably larger and plumper than those seen in supermarkets. When the lights were turned off and they were stimulated, they began to glow, emitting a mysterious, strong, and bright light, much like LED blue light.
A Special Breakfast Experience at "Mizuhashi Shokudo Gyofu," a Fishermen's Restaurant
Now, for the long-awaited luxurious breakfast featuring the freshly caught seafood.
"Mizuhashi Shokudo Gyofu," run by the head of the fishery cooperative, is located directly in front of the fishing port and is renowned for its incredibly fresh seafood.
While the restaurant normally opens only for lunch, the "Breakfast Tour," which includes observing the sorting of firefly squid, attending the auction, and experiencing their bioluminescence, allows for early morning visits.
The firefly squid, which were alive just moments ago, are not only large but also have plump flesh and rich flavor. The exquisite taste of this ultra-fresh catch is a delicacy that can only be savored here.
Conclude Your Trip with a Colorful Spring Chirashi Sushi at "Sakana no Eki" Ikuji
The wide variety of fresh fish is dazzling. The careful packaging is a great convenience for travelers.
Before boarding the Shinkansen home, it's essential to pick up some souvenirs. At "Sakana no Eki" (Fish Station), you can purchase local specialties from Toyama.
"Sakana no Eki" Ikuji in Kurobe City consists of two buildings: a restaurant and a retail area. It offers a seafood charcoal grill restaurant, processed goods like dried fish caught at the adjacent Kurobe Fishing Port, original local beers, and regional seasonings – truly a seafood wonderland.
While bento boxes are an option, today we decided to enjoy our original chirashi sushi before heading back. The "Yonjuso Bento" is a spring-themed chirashi sushi, its vibrant colors resembling a flower garden, eliciting gasps of admiration.
We purchased a pack of flaked crab directly from a crab fisherman, which, paired with the Japanese sake bought in Iwase yesterday, made for a perfect souvenir.
Although this trip only allowed us to experience a small part of Toyama Prefecture, we were amazed by the concentration of attractions within a 40-minute drive from the Shinkansen station. The land embraced by the magnificent Toyama Bay, with its history of trade since the Meiji era, has led to the current food culture and fostered encounters with people proud of this region.
The assertion that "Toyama is synonymous with sushi" is backed by an abundance of reasons for its deliciousness.
Firefly squid are in season until just before the rainy season, while white shrimp, hailed as the jewels of Toyama Bay, are entering their prime. Soon, it will be the season for blackthroat seaperch. The famous "Masu Sushi" is a year-round classic souvenir, and enjoying a colorful seasonal chirashi sushi during transit is also a great option. So, when shall we visit Toyama again?
