A special journey to Toyama, a seafood paradise where a renowned fishing port meets a vibrant city, capturing the attention of gourmands worldwide.
TRAVEL | TOYAMA
Did you know that Toyama City was selected as one of the "52 Places to Go in 2025" by The New York Times last year? Toyama Prefecture, now gaining global attention, is undertaking a "sushi" branding project, leveraging its rich seafood resources.
We explored the history of prosperity brought by Kitamae-bune ships from the Edo to Meiji periods, visited the training grounds for future artisans, experienced the local warmth while enjoying sushi at casual evening snack bars, and even followed the firefly squid fishing, which is in season now.
This report details our immersive experience of Toyama's charms.
Text & Photographs by KOICHI eriko
An Unforgettable Encounter with Toyama Bay Sushi
Located about a 20-minute drive from central Toyama City, Iwasehama offers a view of the majestic Tateyama mountain range in the background.
About two hours from Tokyo via the Hokuriku Shinkansen. As you prepare to disembark, a glance out the window reveals the snow-capped Tateyama mountain range to the left and the Sea of Japan approaching to the right—a quintessential Toyama landscape that is sure to stir excitement.
With anticipation building, our journey to unravel the allure of Toyama's sushi began.
Toyama Bay Sushi at "Ayumi Sushi Honke," ¥5,500 (normally available only for dinner)
Upon arrival, we immediately indulged in Toyama Bay Sushi. "Toyama Bay Sushi," offered at about 45 establishments across the prefecture, consists of 10 pieces of sushi made with seasonal local fish from Toyama Bay, Toyama Prefecture-grown sushi rice, and a local Toyama-style soup.
With prices fixed between ¥2,700 and ¥5,500, it's a convenient and reassuring option for travelers.
Firefly squid, freshly caught. No matter how advanced distribution becomes, freshness is key for firefly squid, making it best enjoyed locally.
We visited "Ayumi Sushi Honke," located near Toyama Station. The 10 pieces of sushi that day included gundohburi (young yellowtail), filefish, firefly squid preserved in kelp, and blackthroat seaperch. From the rich, smooth fat of the yellowtail, a remnant of winter, to the plump firefly squid, freshly out of season, and the konbu-jime (kelp-cured) sushi, a soul food of Toyama, we savored a moment of pure delight with these unique, once-in-a-lifetime sushi creations.
The proximity of the fishing grounds to the port, and the port to the city, allows for an unparalleled joy of encountering the freshest ingredients, a pleasure we were convinced could only be experienced here in Toyama.
A School Entrusted with the Future of Sushi Opens in the Historic Iwase Area
The "Former Baba Residence," a designated National Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Reflecting on the era when the area thrived with Kitamae-bune ships.
Our next destination, the port town of Iwase, near Toyama City, was once a prosperous trading hub for Kitamae-bune ships. Strolling through the streets, preserved since the Meiji era, is fascinating in itself, and highly recommended for architecture and history enthusiasts.
This spring, a sushi chef training school, "Hokuriku Sushi Academy," opened in this historic area. Coincidentally, the opening ceremony was being held that day, highlighting the local excitement.
A schoolhouse unique to the Iwase district, revitalized from a former fishing tackle shop.
While affiliated with "Tokyo Sushi Academy," its greatest feature is the exceptional learning environment unique to Toyama, where students can handle the abundant and fresh seafood of Toyama Bay and experience auctions and procurement at nearby fishing ports.
Governor Nitta of Toyama Prefecture also gave a speech at the opening ceremony, expressing great expectations for the academy as "a base for promoting Toyama's sushi culture nationwide and globally." The foundation for nurturing future talent to boost the "Sushi means Toyama" branding is now firmly in place.
A Tasting Experience of 100 Varieties of Masuizumi at Masuda Sake Brewery "Saseki"
The self-service style of retrieving your favorite brands from the refrigerator is thrilling.
No discussion of sushi is complete without excellent sake, and Iwase is home to the renowned "Masuda Sake Brewery." We also visited "Saseki," where you can sample Masuda Sake Brewery's signature "Masuizumi" lineup in a self-service format.
Masuizumi, served even in top-tier sushi restaurants, was a pioneer of the ginjo sake boom. Here, you can taste approximately 100 types of sake, including limited editions only available at "Saseki" and collaborations with champagne houses.
The building, said to be a revitalized residence of the Miyagi family, who were shipping merchants, offers a refreshing architectural experience, and the prominent cedar tree standing indoors as a symbol is also a must-see.
We enjoyed the 15-minute, ¥1,500 course (including mineral water). The accompanying sake-lees-pickled firefly squid appetizer is also a must-try.
For Souvenirs of Toyama's Premier Sake, Visit "Sasho Tajima Honten"
While the excitement from "Saseki" still lingered, we decided to pick up some souvenirs at a nearby liquor store. "Sasho Tajima Honten" boasts an impressive cellar and specializes in local Toyama sake. Not only is their selection of Masuizumi extensive, but you can also find sakes from various regions of Toyama and renowned brands from across Japan.
An overwhelming selection of Japanese sake, wine, and more. The time spent choosing from the large cellar becomes a cherished memory.
The Richness of Toyama Captivates the Chef of "Piatto Suzuki Cinque," an Italian Restaurant with Michelin-Starred Pedigree
Passing through a stone gate reveals a restaurant with a terrace resembling a Noh stage, surrounded by trees.
"Piatto Suzuki Cinque," an Italian restaurant located on the same grounds as Masuda Sake Brewery's "Saseki," is helmed by owner-chef Goro Suzuki, who himself was captivated by Toyama's ingredients.
The chef, who honed his skills at the acclaimed "Piatto Suzuki" in Tokyo, a restaurant that has earned multiple Michelin stars, was drawn to Toyama's charm and relocated to open his own establishment.
Faithfully applying the fundamental techniques cultivated at "Piatto Suzuki," the chef elevates them into dishes that fully utilize Toyama's bounty, making it a popular restaurant bustling with guests from both within and outside the prefecture daily.
The snowmelt from the Tateyama mountain range nourishes the rice and sake, while the fertile soil yields robust vegetables. The chef shared that the ability to serve fresh seafood and mountain vegetables, caught and harvested just moments before, is a charm of Toyama that cannot be replicated in Tokyo.
Chef Suzuki, who has established himself in this area with his humble demeanor and sincere cooking.
Snack Bars x Sushi: A Unique Night Tour at "Sushiken Toyama"
As dusk settled, we headed to Sakuragi-cho, the entertainment district in central Toyama City. We experienced a night tour that the prefecture launched this March as one of its tourism offerings.
This unique tour allows participants to experience a deeper side of Toyama by being guided through the night streets by a local guide, hopping between two snack bars to enjoy sushi.
Sushi enjoyed at a local snack bar is exceptional.
The snack bar we visited that evening was "bar Miyabi." Velvet sofas, a counter, and a colorful mirror ball slowly rotating in the dim light—staff members greeted us with smiles from behind the counter. This was the quintessential snack bar experience!
The prospect of visiting a local snack bar, something one might hesitate to do alone while traveling, heightened our excitement.
Opening the bento box of sushi provided, we found it packed with delicacies from Toyama Bay, including red snow crab nigiri, firefly squid preserved in soy sauce, and white shrimp tempura.
Sushi served at the first bar, featuring not only nigiri but also white shrimp tempura and firefly squid preserved in soy sauce.
We savored the unique atmosphere of the snack bar, sipping drinks, enjoying sushi, and sharing laughter while listening to stories, such as why the mama-san, who had moved to Tokyo, decided to return to Toyama, and recommendations for local spots.
Although the combination of drinking at a snack bar and eating sushi was novel, the relaxed atmosphere allowed us to connect with the local warmth of Toyama, doubling the enjoyment of the delicious sushi.
At the second bar, we enjoyed sushi kamaboko (fish cake). The original plate was designed so soy sauce would flow like water from a dam into Toyama Bay.
For a Relaxing Sauna Experience, Stay at "Hotel Grand Mirage"
The view of the sea from the Spa Barnage. Since the facilities are switched between male and female guests, staying guests can enjoy both the sea and mountain views.
After satisfying our appetites and relaxing, a perfect end to the day would be to soothe our fatigue in the hotel's sauna.
Our accommodation for the night was "Hotel Grand Mirage," located near Uozu Station. Many guests choose this hotel for its "Spa Barnage" on the upper floors.
The spa, supervised by Mikie Sasano, who was born into the family that runs "Sauna Shikiji," a sacred place for sauna enthusiasts, and who is involved in the production and PR of saunas and hot spring facilities, offers stunning views of both the mountains and the sea. The hotel also features art by contemporary artist Noritaka Tatehana, making it a spa that impresses even the most discerning sauna lovers.
We decided to spend time relaxing in the hotel's spa, preparing for the main event of the next day.
Witnessing the Traditional Firefly Squid Fishery, Woven by the Hands of Fishermen
The fixed-net firefly squid fishery, hauled in by hand by fishermen, is conducted only in Toyama Prefecture in Japan.
At 3 AM, I found myself aboard a firefly squid fishing boat, the highlight of this journey. A fire was lit on the boat for warmth, and the fishermen were busy preparing for departure.
While normally one can observe the fishing from a tourist boat, this time I had the special opportunity to board a fishing vessel departing from Namikawa Fishing Port.
Shortly after setting sail, we arrived at the first fishing ground. "Already?" I thought, but it was understandable, as the fishing grounds were only 1-2 km from the port.
The unique topography, with a sudden drop-off beyond 1,000 meters from the shore, combined with the towering 3,000-meter-class Tateyama mountain range nearby, creates an environment where approximately 500 of the 800 species of marine life inhabiting the Sea of Japan reside. This has earned Toyama Bay the nickname "Nature's Fish Tank."
My image of a squid fishing boat was one with bare bulbs hanging over a dark sea, but here, bright LED lights illuminated the scene. However, the fishing itself was more analog than I had imagined, requiring the fishermen to work together with synchronized effort—a meticulous and patient task that surprised me.
The net, hauled in by hand, contained firefly squid and Japanese sardines, which were experiencing a late season.
Upon reaching the point where the net was set, the fishermen lined up along the edge of the boat and began hauling the net in unison, by hand. As they worked silently and diligently in the cold sea, the crimson, ebony-hued firefly squid came into view. They were carefully scooped into a basket with a hand net.
To minimize stress, the firefly squid are carefully scooped and then stored on the boat to maintain their freshness.
This fixed-net method is a unique traditional fishing technique practiced only in Toyama. Because it is labor-intensive, it minimizes damage to the fish, allowing them to be landed in extremely fresh condition. It was a valuable experience that reaffirmed the principle that deliciousness has its reasons.
After landing, the sorting process begins immediately. With incredible speed, they separate males and females while checking for freshness.
After being landed at Mihashi Fishing Port, the sorting process was carried out swiftly, and before we knew it, bidding had already begun nearby. Everything proceeded efficiently for the sake of the firefly squid's freshness.
When held, their glow dims, perhaps due to stress, but the photophores on their tips still shone brightly.
In a space near the bidding area, visitors can observe firefly squid glowing in large tanks.
Noticeably larger and plumper than the firefly squid seen in supermarkets, these creatures emitted a strong, mystical light, akin to LED blue light, when stimulated by extinguishing the lights.
A Special Breakfast Experience at "Mihashi Shokudo Gyofu," a Fishermen's Restaurant
Now, for the much-anticipated luxurious breakfast featuring freshly caught seafood.
"Mihashi Shokudo Gyofu," run by the chairman of the fishery cooperative, is located directly in front of the fishing port and is renowned for its exceptionally fresh seafood.
While the restaurant typically opens for lunch, the "Breakfast Tour," which includes observing the sorting of firefly squid, attending the auction, and experiencing their bioluminescence, allows for early morning visits.
The firefly squid, which were alive just moments ago, are not only large but also plump and flavorful. Their exquisite taste, thanks to the unparalleled freshness, is a delicacy that can only be savored here.
Conclude Your Trip with a Colorful Spring Chirashi Sushi at "Sakana no Eki" Ikuji
The wide variety of fresh fish is dazzling. The careful packaging is greatly appreciated by travelers.
Before boarding the Shinkansen home, it's essential to pick up some souvenirs. At "Sakana no Eki" (Fish Station), you can purchase local seafood products unique to Toyama.
"Sakana no Eki" Ikuji in Kurobe City consists of two buildings: a restaurant and a retail area. It features a seafood charcoal grill restaurant, processed goods like dried fish and other seafood caught at the adjacent Kurobe Fishing Port, original local beers, and regional seasonings—truly a seafood wonderland.
While an ekiben (station bento) is an option, today we decided to enjoy our own original chirashi sushi before heading home. The "Quartet Bento" is a spring-themed chirashi sushi, its vibrant colors resembling a flower garden, eliciting gasps of admiration.
I purchased a pack of shredded crab directly from a crab fisherman, which, paired with the sake bought in Iwase yesterday, made for a perfect souvenir.
Although we only experienced a small part of Toyama Prefecture, I was amazed by the concentration of captivating content within a mere 40-minute drive from the Shinkansen station. Embraced by the magnificent Toyama Bay, this land, with its history of trade since the Meiji era, has led to its current culinary culture and fostered encounters with people who welcome visitors with pride.
The assertion that "Sushi means Toyama" is backed by an abundance of reasons for its deliciousness.
Firefly squid are available until early summer, while white shrimp, hailed as the jewels of Toyama Bay, are in season now. Soon, it will be the season for blackthroat seaperch. The famous "Masu Sushi" is a year-round souvenir staple, and enjoying a colorful seasonal chirashi sushi during your travels is also a great option. So, when shall we visit Toyama again?
