Indeed, if I were to give a heartfelt gift this winter to someone who has truly supported me, without regard for cost, I would quietly present them with this sake. This is the latest creation from "SAKE HUNDRED," a collective of sake producers renowned for their astonishingly well-conceived sake. For OPENERS readers, it's likely a familiar name. While it's their latest, this particular label was previously only available to select clients and is now being offered to the public in a limited quantity (※Membership registration required). Regardless, from the moment you bring the glass to your nose, through its passage down your throat, to the lingering aroma that graces your senses, it is an invincible taste, flawless in every aspect.

It's akin to the exquisite sweetness of "Juyondai," paired with a smoky, crisp finish and a hint of bitterness. For me, this is unlike anything I've tasted before.

Typically, it's one or the other. If it's sweet, it remains sweet throughout. If it has a hint of bitterness, it's bitter from the start. Here, two contrasting personalities coexist without negating each other. It's a miraculous balance. Moreover, both aspects are of the highest caliber. It's the equation where "delicious" plus "delicious" equals "exceptionally delicious."

This particular sake employs a technique called "assemblage," which involves intentionally blending different sakes. While this method is common in the world of wine, such as with Bordeaux and Champagne, its application in sake historically focused on rectifying deficiencies. Consequently, it carried an image of being a compromise for lower-quality products, and the technique never quite took off in the sake industry.

Grapes, influenced by terroir, exhibit variations from vintage to vintage. This is because grape growth is significantly affected by factors like scorching sun or persistent rain. Naturally, the quality of sake rice is also subject to environmental conditions during its growth. However, sake is a craft of technique. Brewing techniques have evolved to accommodate the rice's condition, making its flavor less dependent on terroir. In fact, even if terroir has an influence, the subsequent brewing process absorbs those variations. Therefore, sake traditionally had little need for assemblage to standardize vintages. This aspect is also relevant.

However, in today's dynamic brewing landscape, the positive effects of assemblage have not been overlooked. Thus, we've begun to see more sake employing assemblage. And with "Kyoka," the sum of its parts truly becomes greater than its whole, multiplying into five or six times the impact. The sensory experience of taste and aroma expands exponentially when they overlap.

Eighty-six percent of "Kyoka" is "Amayu" (a nama-zake now discontinued), and 14% is "Shirin" (aged in Mizunara casks, imparting an oak aroma). Furthermore, "Shirin" itself is a blend of two vintages to create a sense of depth and complexity. Truly, it is meticulously crafted.

Moreover, both "Amayu" and "Shirin" are produced by Ou Jidai in Yamagata Prefecture. It's only natural that they harmonize well, being from the same brewery. Their contrasting yet complementary characteristics enhance each other when blended. It's exquisite. CEO Ryushi Ikoma, who leads SAKE HUNDRED, has aimed for assemblage since the brand's inception, and indeed, this synergistic effect is remarkably sophisticated.

Incidentally, Tetsuya Yokoyama, manager at "Edomae Sushi Sushido" in Nishi-Azabu, suggested pairing "Kyoka" with sea urchin dishes. Indeed, while it would gently envelop the richness of sea urchin, "Kyoka" would maintain its crisp elegance without compromise. Its refined taste sets it apart from any sake experienced before.

Therefore, due to the inclusion of a discontinued sake, "Kyoka" can only be produced in limited quantities. This public sale is also a limited-time offer, running until January 15, 2024.

While it is an ultra-premium product and not intended for daily consumption, if you have the opportunity to purchase a sake in the 30,000 yen range, this is a highly recommended option. Compared to Bordeaux or Burgundy, the price is by no means exorbitant. And, crucially, you may never have another chance to purchase it.

Kyoka｜KYOUKA
Producer: Ou Jidai (Yamagata)
Rice: Yuki Megami (Yamagata Prefecture) 86% / Yamada Nishiki (Hyogo Prefecture) 14% Polishing Ratio: 18%
Alcohol Content: 15.6%
Volume: 720ml
Price: ¥34,100 (excluding shipping)
Product Page: https://jp.sake100.com/products/kyouka
Public Sale Period: November 8, 2023 (Wed) - January 15, 2024 (Mon)