Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "A Meal in a Historic Building"

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings

Volume 46: "A Meal in a Historic Building"

Several years ago, there was a popular restaurant chain known for its delicious food at affordable prices, with queues forming at every branch. A friend who decided to try it out told me, "While it's certainly 'tasty' for the price, the plates were cheap plastic, the seating was uncomfortably close, and the tables were small, yet dishes kept coming. It wasn't really 'delicious' for me. After all, a meal isn't just about the 'taste,' is it?" I also recall a conversation with a prominent figure in the food industry who said, "Dining out is about meeting people. Of course, the food itself is important, but it starts with what you wear and extends to enjoying the 'experience of the place.'"

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "A Meal in a Historic Building" — Toka Saikan: Kyoto (The elevator is said to be the oldest in Japan)

I believe that truly enjoying a meal involves not only seeking gustatory pleasure by carefully selecting food that suits my palate, scrutinizing the ingredients, cooking methods, and combinations, but also appreciating the chef's intent and passion, the presentation on the plate, and feeling a sense of well-being after finishing.

Celery and Japanese parsley (myoga), which I disliked as a child, became delicious when I ate them freshly picked from the field as an adult. While freshness and umami certainly play a role, perhaps it's because as a child I tasted purely with my sense of taste, but as an adult, I experience the soil, water, and sun of the place, along with the dedication and passion of the people there, in a complex, multi-sensory way that makes them enjoyable. Conversely, ramen that was incredibly delicious when we went out all night drinking and having fun with friends as a youth, might not taste as good when visited during the day as an adult. This happens often.

Delicious food naturally brings smiles to people's faces and enriches their expressions. Unpleasant food leaves one expressionless. When you can smile, you forget unpleasant things (even if only for a moment!), and you can find peace. Ultimately, the atmosphere of a place is indispensable to a meal. When I choose a restaurant, I look for one that is not only delicious but also has a good ambiance, pleasant staff, and offers something stimulating and enjoyable for my companions, creating a memorable experience for the day.

In that sense, I appreciate restaurants whose architecture is rich in history and design, offering a relaxing atmosphere. Perhaps it's the age of the building, the founding year, or the scent of the surrounding town that evokes this feeling. Before entering, I feel a sense of excitement, curious about its history, the people involved, how it was built, and its origins, absorbing new knowledge. Inside, the construction of the walls, pillars, windows, and ceilings, as well as the furnishings, are all captivating and stimulating. Yet, stepping inside, the flow of time feels different, more leisurely. That balance is incredibly comforting.

There are surprisingly many restaurants and cafes operating within buildings rich in history and design. In the so-called former zaibatsu residences, such as Old Furukawa Garden (Nishigahara, Kita Ward) and Old Iwasaki Residence Garden (Ikenohata, Taito Ward), which are now open as metropolitan gardens, there are usually attached tea houses, making them interesting places to visit occasionally. Incidentally, Old Furukawa Garden began when Mutsu Munemitsu, a politician of the Meiji era known for his role as Foreign Minister at the time of the signing of the Treaty of Shimonoseki, purchased the land and built a second residence. Later, in 1919, it was renovated into its current form as the residence of Baron Toranosuke Furukawa of the Furukawa zaibatsu, and it is now national property and a designated national scenic beauty spot. It is also known for its roses.

The history of the Old Iwasaki Residence Garden dates back to the Edo period. In 1878, Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of the Mitsubishi zaibatsu, purchased the estate from Makiya Sukenari, the former lord of the Maizuru domain. The existing Western-style building and the large hall were built by Hisaya Iwasaki, the third generation of the Iwasaki family, and completed in 1896. The buildings within the garden are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.

■Doteyno Iseya: 1-9-2 Nihonzutsumi, Taito-ku, Tokyo
A tempura restaurant founded in 1889 near the Yoshiwara Omon gate. The two-story wooden building is a registered tangible cultural property. It came to be known as Doteyno Iseya because it was located in front of the Yoshiwara embankment, and that name stuck. In its early days, it was popular with customers from the Yoshiwara pleasure district during the day and with touts at night, operating 24 hours a day. Even today, it has been consistently popular since before the era of social media, and there's always a wait. Standing in line, enveloped by the fragrant aroma of sesame oil wafting from the eaves, feels like a form of ascetic practice, but the tempura bowl that follows is the pinnacle of culinary bliss. The anago (conger eel) tempura, made with a continuously replenished sauce, is unique to this establishment. While it used to be open at night, it now only serves lunch. It's best enjoyed while taking in the streetscape of the Yoshiwara-Yariya area.

■Hantei: 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
A kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) restaurant in Nezu. Although founded in 1970, the three-story wooden building, constructed entirely of zelkova wood in the Meiji era and which survived the Great Kanto Earthquake, is also a registered tangible cultural property. With a diverse menu ranging from seasonal vegetables to seafood and meat, one can experience the changing seasons here. Kushikatsu might evoke an image of being 'rich' or 'oily,' but here, the oil and ingredients are carefully selected, resulting in a light flavor. Delicious kushikatsu is always crisp, light, and endlessly enjoyable. While there is a branch in Shin-Marunouchi Building, I would prefer to visit this original location.

■Gakushi Kaikan: 3-28 Kanda-Nishikicho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
This is the birthplace of Tokyo University, the birthplace of Japanese baseball, and the birthplace of Jo Niijima, the founder of Doshisha University. It is also famous as a filming location for a popular drama where the final scene of a dogeza (kneeling and bowing) became a topic of conversation. Its history is long, with the current building constructed in 1928 and registered as a national tangible cultural property. Originally, a Western-style wooden two-story facility was built in 1913 but burned down in a large fire the same year. Reconstruction efforts were subsequently delayed by the Great Kanto Earthquake. After repeated destruction and rebuilding, the current Gakushi Kaikan was constructed in 1928. Gakushi Kaikan houses four restaurants: French, Chinese, Kappo (Japanese haute cuisine), and a cafe bar. It's convenient that all are easily accessible.

IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at the age of 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school for over 20 years, he participated in the launch of "Sunshine Juice," Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are pure coffee shops and traditional izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman