Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "A Healthy Lunch"

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings

Part 44: "A Healthy Lunch"

As we age, our tastes in food, whether consciously or unconsciously, begin to change. When I was younger, kalbi over rice was king, but somewhere along the line, it became sushi or yakitori. After drinking, ramen turned into soba, or ramen without noodles (what on earth?). Similarly, lunch shifted from a large ramen, half-fried rice, and gyoza to a grilled fish set meal. Some people consciously endure and restrain themselves, changing their habits out of concern for their health checkup numbers—obesity, high blood pressure, diabetes... all sorts of lifestyle diseases. But for others, the body naturally starts to crave healthier options.

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Tomoji Yu: Asakusa
Bassenbo: Nakameguro

Organic, natural, vegan, gluten-free... In recent years, various health-conscious eating trends have become mainstream, and more people are incorporating them into their lifestyles. There are pros and cons, but I neither endorse nor reject them. If people who adopt these trends feel mentally comfortable and do not judge those with different preferences, nor do they push their own choices onto others, then I think it's wonderful. For myself, I haven't adopted any of the health trends mentioned above, nor have I ever considered doing so. However, since my early thirties, I've established my own principles: "Eat what I feel like eating at the moment," "But don't overeat," "Don't snack (eat when hungry)," and "Eat food prepared by human hands (avoid processed foods as much as possible)."

Mamefushokudo: Ebisu
Sanukiya: Gokurakuji

To get back to the topic, by the time one reaches forty, there are times when the body craves a healthy lunch, something one might have overlooked in younger days. This happens when evening dining out has been frequent, when one is tired, or when the dining companion desires such a meal. However, at such times, I have no desire to gorge myself on quinoa salad at a salad bar, nor do I feel like spending ¥1,780 at a woody cafe for a lunch of salad, soup, and quiche. I simply want to eat something that seems easy to digest and promotes metabolism, focusing on fish, vegetables, rice, brown rice, and soybeans, while limiting oil and carbohydrates. Yes, "seems" is good enough.

Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "A Healthy Lunch" — Yagenbori: Akasaka

■ Yagenbori: 3-19-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
This is a long-established Kyoto cuisine restaurant that began in Gion, Kyoto, in the Meiji era. I have memories of my parents taking me to the Kyoto branch when I was a child, and it retains a sense of dignity and refinement. Yagenbori also has a branch in Akasaka, which, like the original, offers a chic atmosphere reminiscent of the traditional ryotei district. While they offer authentic kaiseki in the evening, lunch provides a more accessible experience. The highlight of their lunch is undoubtedly the luxurious dashimaki tamago, fluffy and melt-in-your-mouth. Its overwhelming size makes one wonder how many eggs are used! When I asked, it turned out to be two or three. Apparently, the generous use of delicious dashi stock contributes to its size. The meal centers around the dashimaki tamago, accompanied by pickles, chirimen jako (small dried sardines), red miso soup, and freshly cooked rice from the donabe. It's a combination that feels so satisfying you could eat it endlessly, yet it offers a guilt-free indulgence. Their summer hiyajiru (cold soup) is also superb. It's an experience to be savored alongside the chic ambiance and serene atmosphere.

■ Owari-ya: 1-6-4 Kaji-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
This is a long-established oden restaurant in Kanda, founded in 1927. When you step inside during the day, it's bustling with many regulars, and it's rare to get a seat easily during the 12 o'clock hour. While counter seating is the norm, there's also a raised seating area in the back, and reservations are possible even for lunch. The menu consists of three options: the oden set meal, the sashimi set meal, and a set that includes both. Naturally, the set with both is the best choice. The cherry tomatoes that come with every meal are exceptionally sweet and reassuring. As expected from a long-established oden restaurant, the oden is delicious, but the sashimi here is also exquisite. They apparently use fresh, seasonal fish procured every morning. This fish is incredibly tasty. At first, I ordered it without much thought, as it was a menu item other than their signature dish, and it was lunchtime. But I was surprised by how delicious the sashimi was. It's worth a slight detour if you have appointments in Kyobashi or Otemachi. Ideally, it's recommended to visit when you can enjoy a drink with your meal, even during the day.

IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at the age of 30. With his representative, a friend since junior high school, he co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are old-fashioned coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman