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December 28, 2024
The new taste of Champagne lies in its texture.
G.H.MUMM | Maison Mumm
Wine tasting has traditionally been evaluated through the senses of smell and taste. Now, a revolutionary approach that overturns this convention has been proposed by the prestigious Champagne house, Maison Mumm. The new tasting method, "Tasting Encounter Odyssey," which utilizes the sense of touch, opens a new door to the flavors of Champagne.
The Fusion of Science and Design Further Stimulates the Senses
The cool touch of metal on the fingertips. Holding a Champagne glass in the other hand, one gently closes their eyes and brings it to their lips. Suddenly, an impression distinctly different from before begins to unfold. The fresh, mineral notes are perceived with greater clarity. Next, the same wine is savored while touching the soft texture of leather. This time, the mellow and profound flavors are highlighted.
This is a scene from "Tasting Encounter Odyssey," the new tasting method proposed by Maison Mumm. This innovative experience was unveiled in Japan for the first time at an event held in Aoyama, Tokyo, on November 12th.
This tasting method was developed by neuroscientist Gabriel Lepetit of the Pasteur Institute in Paris and Octave de Gourcuff, a designer at Maison Mumm. Traditional wine tasting has involved associating taste and smell with keywords to solidify memory. However, this new method adds touch, a new perception, to provide different stimuli to the brain, enabling deeper understanding and experience.
Next, one picks up a perfect sphere of glass and an object of terracotta that evokes the warmth of the earth. The smoothness of the sphere, fitting into the palm of the hand, evokes the elegance of Champagne. Meanwhile, the terracotta's surface has fine irregularities, its texture suggesting the wine's complexity. Research indicates that such tactile stimuli connect with taste information in the brain, promoting a richer perception of flavor.
The innovation of this method lies in the utilization of so-called "synesthesia." Through the distinct sense of touch, it prompts awareness of the wine's potential. The freshness felt by touching cold metal, the depth born from the warmth of leather. This tactile information makes the understanding of taste more three-dimensional.
Exploring the Essence of Pinot Noir Through Expanded Consciousness via Synesthesia
In the tasting of "Mumm Grand Cordon," the metallic touch enhances freshness and minerality, while the warmth of leather accentuates the wine's mellowness. For the subsequent "Mumm Grand Cordon Rosé," the elegance represented by the glass sphere and the fine texture symbolized by the terracotta highlight the multifaceted charm of Pinot Noir.
"Through touch, we can understand the different expressions of Champagne," says Laurent Mounier, Maison Mumm's new Cellar Master, who took office this past April. The 2024 vintage, his first, he describes as having "wonderful aromatic richness, a good balance of ripeness and freshness, and the potential to create a beautiful vintage." Although the 2024 harvest volume decreased due to damage from late frosts, the favorable ripening conditions over the summer allowed for the collection of high-quality grapes.
Pairing of RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2015 with the fish dish "Pan-fried Sea Bream with Breadcrumbs and Champagne Sauce." The dish is accented with champagne vinegar in a brown butter sauce.
At a special dinner held at STELLAR WORKS Restaurant & Bar on the day of the event, pairings with the RSRV series were also presented. Particularly memorable was the marriage of Maison Mumm's prestige cuvée, "RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2015," with a fish dish. "It was an excellent match with the creamy sauce," commented Laurent Mounier. The appreciation for this Chardonnay-only cuvée, which deliberately eschews the Pinot Noir that Maison Mumm is known for, resulted in a truly blissful pairing that brought out a new facet of the brand.
Since its founding in 1827, Maison Mumm has pursued Champagne production centered on Pinot Noir. Currently, 78% of its vineyards are planted with Pinot Noir, and this pursuit continues to evolve. With 160 out of 218 hectares designated as Grand Cru, its quality is unwavering.
Although I had not tasted Maison Mumm's Champagne in several years, I was once again deeply impressed by its excellence. Previously, I perceived it as drier and sharper. However, upon carefully re-evaluating the taste through the aforementioned tasting method, I came to recognize its richer fruitiness and mellowness derived from Pinot Noir, perceiving a more profound flavor.
Experience This Astonishing Discovery Through Synesthesia at Home!
Unfortunately, this innovative tasting experience is not yet available to the general public. However, as this method becomes more widely adopted, it will undoubtedly provide many enthusiasts with an opportunity to discover new charms not only in Champagne but in wine as a whole.
At home, try preparing several items with different textures—such as a metal spoon, leather goods, pottery, or smooth glassware—and taste your Champagne while touching each one. Maison Mumm's Champagne, in particular, should allow you to perceive the presence of Pinot Noir more vividly when enjoyed this way.
By opening the door to the new perception of touch, the enjoyment of Champagne is sure to expand even further.