Essay Series | #ijichiman's Musings: "Neighborhood Sushi"

Essay Series | #ijichiman's Musings

Part 43: "Neighborhood Sushi"

There used to be a sushi restaurant called Sugiyoshi in front of Meguro Station. The omakase course was reasonably priced, starting from ¥3,500 and going up to about ¥9,000. It wasn't particularly highly rated on review sites, nor was it famous for anything specific, but it was always delicious, and the chef was so sophisticated that he'd let us sit at the counter even with our children. One day, when I asked for 'konowata' (sea cucumber innards), he said, 'I have two kinds, one freshly prepared this morning and another aged for a few days. Try them side-by-side.' He continued, 'Neither is inherently better than the other, but I wanted to see what you'd prefer. Which do you like?' I loved that kind of subtle attention to detail. Sadly, after they closed during the pandemic, I haven't seen them open again.

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Sushi for Everyday Enjoyment

Essay Series | #ijichiman's Musings: "Neighborhood Sushi" — Sugiyoshi: Meguro

I believe there are two ways to enjoy sushi. One is to go with the restaurant's omakase course. This involves savoring not just the ingredients but also the carefully considered order in which they are served, experiencing the world the restaurant proudly presents. The other is the à la carte style, where you order your favorite items in your preferred order. It's a question of whether you prefer to be guided by the chef or to lead and bring out the best from the chef. While the former might be suitable for special anniversaries or important business dinners where you want to converse at length, the latter is naturally better for everyday dining. And that's precisely where neighborhood sushi restaurants shine.

A neighborhood sushi restaurant isn't about the refined techniques of master chefs, nor is it simply a place with fresh toppings on vinegared rice like a casual sushi bar. Here, you can choose from the chilled display case in front of you, the fish is expertly prepared upon order, and no effort is spared in the meticulous preparation. The aged noren (shop curtain) and menu exude a sense of history, while the immaculately clean interior offers a sense of freshness. Many patrons are regulars who have been coming for years, yet the staff are friendly and welcoming to newcomers. A good neighborhood sushi place is one where you can feel the owner's dedication, where you can enjoy a delicious meal whether you're alone, with a friend, or in a group, whether it's lunch or dinner, sober or tipsy. It's a place where you can always find something to savor.

While it's for everyday enjoyment, sushi isn't something you eat weekly. Perhaps once a month, on payday or as a small reward after a hard day's work, is more appropriate. There's a common saying, 'When did you first sit at a sushi counter with your own money?' The experience of your sushi debut often carries a sense of adult sophistication, akin to losing one's virginity. Just as the initial anticipation, craving, anxiety, and slight fear surrounding sex can give way to a 'Is this it?' realization, with experience, the true pleasure gradually unfolds. Similarly, as you gain more experience with sushi through repeated encounters, it transforms from a distant delicacy into a refined adult indulgence.

Chatting with the chef across the counter about the World Cup, the Japan Series, the general election, or the latest delicious restaurant I've tried... a casual conversation while eating and drinking, costing around ¥10,000, feels just right for an adult's budget. Neighborhood sushi restaurants vary greatly in price, taste, and compatibility with the chef. Once you find a place that suits you, it's worth cultivating a long-term relationship.

■Sushiyoshi: 3-13-15 1F Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
A neighborhood sushi restaurant loved for about 50 years in Nakameguro. Although its recently renovated, clean exterior might give the impression of a high-end sushi establishment, stepping inside reveals a welcoming second-generation chef with a cool, gentle demeanor. Both omakase and à la carte are available, and the atmosphere is homey and comfortable. Yet, the quality of each dish surpasses that of many high-end sushi restaurants. When you dine here, it's so delicious that after ordering à la carte, you'll inevitably find yourself ordering a chirashi bowl too. Be mindful not to overindulge, as you might deplete the day's stock, much to the chagrin of late-arriving regulars.

■Kensushi: 5-19-3 Kamata, Ota-ku, Tokyo
North of Akabane, East of Kinshicho, West of Kamata. Kamata, a representative of the bustling, diverse entertainment districts to the west, is known for gyoza, tonkatsu, and public baths. However, there are also excellent sushi restaurants. Just a minute's walk from the East Exit, where Kamata's 'shady' establishments line the streets, you'll find a place that embodies the essence of a neighborhood sushi restaurant, loved for about 50 years. Step under the large noren, and you'll be greeted by a friendly second-generation chef. When you ask for recommendations, he'll readily offer them with a pleasant demeanor. Unpretentious and informal, conversations flow easily between regulars and newcomers, sparking connections – another charm of neighborhood sushi. Sometimes you can get a seat without a reservation, allowing for spontaneous enjoyment that fills both body and soul. Once you visit, you're sure to be captivated.

■Eisushi: 3-21-6 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Not to be confused with Sushi-ei in Asakusa. Founded in 1946, this restaurant is located not in the vicinity of Senso-ji Temple or the Rokku entertainment district, but beyond the Yanesen area, on the other side of Yanesen-dori. This neighborhood is home to many renowned establishments, including Chibaya, a university sweet potato shop with about 70 years of history, and Takematsu Chicken, a poultry specialist with 130 years of history. There's also the old coffee shop Lodge Akaishi, now an Instagram spot. In the past, this area had many teahouses and reportedly 40-50 traditional Japanese restaurants, with geisha walking the streets at night. In a quiet back alley today, the second-generation owner and his wife welcome guests. Reservations are easy to make, they are friendly, and maintain a comfortable, unobtrusive distance. The casual TV playing in the background adds to the relaxed atmosphere. Meanwhile, the Edo-style sushi preparation is meticulously executed with a subtle brilliance. There's a rumor that this is where 'torotaku' (fatty tuna and pickled daikon roll) originated, but the chef seems entirely uninterested in such claims. What's clear is his philosophy: 'The most important thing is to serve delicious food and satisfy our customers. That's enough.' And indeed, everything they serve is delicious. While Asakusa boasts numerous sushi restaurants, from long-established to casual, this is a place of absolute reliability.

Yasutake Ijichi
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at the age of 30. He joined his representative director, a friend since junior high school, in establishing Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," where he served as Vice President until September 2020. Currently, he supports corporate communication and branding for clients across a wide range of industries while continuing his explorations of various neighborhoods. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). He enjoys baseball and horse racing, and his favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
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