Why do such places exist in Tokyo? A bit inconveniently located in Sangenjaya, just outside Shibuya and Shinjuku. On the corner of an intersection in a nondescript building, there's a restaurant and cafe bar that has been here for 20 years. In 2003, "Kong Tong" opened on the fifth floor of the Sangenjaya intersection building in Setagaya Ward. Below it are a famous noodle shop and clubs, evoking Hong Kong's Kowloon before its return to China, hence the name derived from the sound of "chaos." A unique characteristic of this establishment is that many of its regulars are creators active in the entertainment and cultural worlds.
And for some reason, it's a mysterious place where celebrities gather night after night. What could be the reason...?
Creators from various fields who love Kong Tong, celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2023, share their thoughts on the allure of multifacetedness (chaos). For our first installment, we feature Atsushi Yanaka of Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, who considers himself the most frequent visitor.

— You're known as the foremost regular at Kong Tong here in Sangenjaya. Have you been coming since it opened?

Atsushi Yanaka (hereafter Yanaka)I've been coming since before it opened, back when it was a different establishment.

— You mentioned that when you used to drink, you also frequented it as a bar. Even now that you don't drink, you still come often. I imagine it's not because it's a bar or a cafe, but because you simply love this "place." What draws you in the most?

YanakaI wonder. I'd like to know myself.

— Is it true you've waited outside the entrance before opening?

YanakaHahaha. That happens quite often. Above all, Kong Tong is a "trusted brand." Nothing but trust. For the food, for the drinks. And the music chosen by Tatsuro Fukuda behind the counter also has a big impact. I've always thought the music selection is excellent. I'll ask, 'What song is this?' (directly) or search for it on an app. A place to write lyrics is very important to me... you know how some children can only study in a library? For me, it's very enjoyable to do something in a place where I can feel the atmosphere of others. I have to write lyrics while music plays in my head, but the music at Kong Tong doesn't interfere; rather, it sparks ideas. That's why I've written many songs here.

— So it's a place where inspiration strikes and lyrics are born.

YanakaI think that has a lot to do with Mr. Fukuda's interpersonal distance. He interacts with a certain degree of distance. If I behave too recklessly, he'll distance himself a bit, and I realize I'm being reprimanded (laughs). It's a good establishment because of that distance; it's not like I'm hanging out at a friend's house. I believe that distance creates the establishment's credibility. Also, the way the place is presented is excellent. Every angle is "photogenic," isn't it? While showing signs of use over time, it remains stylish and impeccably clean. It's an old building, but they haven't made major renovations, and presenting it stylishly is actually quite rare in Japan. In Europe, there are many places that say, 'We've been here continuously, for 100 years,' and Kong Tong has that kind of atmosphere. Having so many picturesque elements means they value history, which I believe leads to valuing their customers. Valuing the establishment means valuing the history of the place, which in turn leads to valuing people – it's a syllogism, perhaps.

— You've seen Kong Tong change over the past 20 years up close. Are there any changes you've noticed, or anything that has remained the same?

YanakaAs for changes, perhaps there are fewer customers causing a ruckus now, including myself (laughs). Many customers treated this place like a club, so it would become a big party with lots of people invited. While that scene exists, there's also a calmer daytime atmosphere. I'm learning that Kong Tong's daytime face is also wonderful (laughs). I didn't come much during the day when I used to drink. But many things haven't changed. Strangely so. The cuisine by Chef Daichi Tajima, the representative, has always been delicious, and that's also wonderful.

— The culinary appeal is also a major reason, isn't it? Speaking of which, the song "Mekureta Orange," your first lyric-writing endeavor, was inspired by the view from here, correct?

YanakaThat's right. It was the start of Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra's vocal song series, and while thinking about a song for Takao Tajima to sing, I included the view from here, 'Watching the flowing lights—.' At the time, it was a different restaurant, but this location, this scenery, has always been important to me.

— Earlier, you mentioned that several lyrics were born here. The fact that creative work originates here is, in a way, the highest praise for a place. It's not something that happens often. So, is there anything special about Kong Tong that you cherish?

YanakaIt's close to a simple feeling of "I just like it." I could explain it in many ways after the fact, but that would sound disingenuous. I think I simply like it. Places you want to introduce to others are places you really like, and in that sense, Kong Tong is a reliable place. Even if I think something is good, I wouldn't want to introduce it and have the other person think, 'Huh?' Places with that potential, I wouldn't want to take them there. I'd want to take anyone to Kong Tong, and I have, and some of them come here even more enthusiastically than I do. I think it's important to have a place you can proudly recommend.

— Specifically, what do you often order? Are there any favorite dishes?

YanakaI quite like venison. I often eat game dishes in winter. I especially like the Ezo deer dish. The Caesar salad is also delicious. For drinks, I always have iced coffee, no matter what I eat. I drink it as if it were whiskey (laughs). I feel like I can do that here. I also put it in my own bottle. The ice here is solid, so it doesn't melt easily.

— Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra members shine more in their 40s than their 30s, and more in their 50s than their 40s. You mentioned aging earlier; I think becoming positive about aging is something everyone aims for. Where do you think the line is between decay and maturation?

YanakaI once read a book quoting Pope John Paul II: "Humans are like wine. Some turn into vinegar, while others, the excellent ones, improve with age (John 25th)." I read that and thought, 'That's true.' Getting old like everyone else is scary, and I don't want to get old. Even so, I always want to be updating myself. In music, I think it's okay to change the same song over time, with arrangements and such. Doing so can help it resonate. And I think people themselves have that aspect too. Changing myself to convey the same thing. If I think of it that way, I feel I can flexibly respond to various things. We also need to update concepts like kindness and justice. For example, the justice of walking straight across Shibuya crossing and bumping into everyone is unnecessary, isn't it? Without love, true justice isn't possible. So, I believe we need to update justice and kindness.

— Here, you DJ, perform, and even hold events. Furthermore, Kong Tong was once one of the発信地 (hassinchi - points of origin) for a watch promotion where you were the icon. It's interesting how one place has so many faces and so many ways it connects with you.

YanakaThere are people who act as hubs, aren't there? I strive to be one of those people, but in terms of a place, this is the only one. It's good when connections are made, from person to person, or from person to project. Originally, there were places where people gathered through the establishment, fostering cultural exchange, where musicians and actors would engage in debates, or where writers would get so passionate they'd throw their fountain pens – legendary places. Like Café de Flore or Lumpin in Ginza. I have an admiration for such places.

— What do places where you feel comfortable and want to revisit have in common?

YanakaPerhaps it's the people? It's important to have people who can interact with you even when you're not feeling your best. Some places make you feel, 'Oh, Yanaka-chan seems down today!' and that can be a bit difficult sometimes, making you think, 'I can't go today given my current mood.' In that regard, Mr. Fukuda is superb. When I'm in lyric-writing mode, he doesn't bother me at all. And it's important to have a place where you can take a break when you're stuck. Kong Tong has that element of being able to take a break. In that sense, it's a place with both "stimulation" and "healing," which is why I keep coming back.

Atsushi Yanaka
A member of Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, active both domestically and internationally, he also works as an actor and lyricist. Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra will release their new single "Monbacho feat. Shinya Ishihara (Saucy Dog)" on November 7th, featuring Shinya Ishihara of Saucy Dog.

What’s Kong Tong
Location | 5F Sankyo Bldg., 3-30-10 Ikejiri, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
https://garlands.jp/kongtong/

Today’s Drink and Food
● Iced Coffee
● Spaghetti with Prosciutto and Arugula in Lemon Cream Sauce

Today’s Music Select

Duke Ellington / Money Jungle

Various Artists / Caribbean In America 1915-1962

Sun Ra / Planets of Life or Death