Feature: South Africa by Luxury Sleeper Train – The Train Carries Dreams

Feature: Aboard Africa's Luxury Sleeper Train (1)

– Carrying Dreams Aboard the Train –

Kazuyuki Murai runs "Cosmo Crater Travel." Known as one of Japan's foremost luxury travel experts, handling high-end destinations and hotels, Murai boarded the premium train celebrating the 25th anniversary of "Rovos Rail," Africa's premier luxury train. We bring you a one-night, two-day journey from Durban to Pretoria in South Africa, along with the passionate vision of Rohan, the founder of Rovos Rail.

Text & Photographs by MURAI Kazuyuki

Rovos Rail: Celebrating 25 Years of Dreams

Are you familiar with Rovos Rail, Africa's premier train? It's a luxury sleeper train that originates in South Africa and travels not only within the country but also to Victoria Falls, Tanzania, and as far as Cairo, the capital of Egypt.

This year marks its 25th anniversary. To celebrate a quarter-century, I boarded the premium train event. First, I headed to Durban, South Africa, where the starting station is located. This journey was a special one-night, two-day run from Durban to Pretoria. Rohan Vos, the founder of Rovos Rail, personally attended to us.

My encounter with Rohan dates back five years. Introduced by a friend, I met Rohan for tea while he was in London for sales. Although I had received invitations to ride the train many times before, our schedules never aligned, and it hadn't materialized.

However, the more I learned about Rovos Rail's history, the more I felt I had to ride his dream train and hear his stories while he was still vibrant. That's why I decided to make the trip to South Africa this time.

Rovos Rail is Rohan's dream brought to life. After achieving success and amassing great wealth through businesses like car sales and spare parts manufacturing, Rohan learned of a steam locomotive in a mining town. Acquiring that locomotive was the catalyst that would dramatically change his life.

Rohan had always loved machinery, such as cars, trains, and engines. From the moment he obtained the locomotive, he resolved to restore the grand old trains of yesteryear to this land. He sold all six of his successful companies and factories, channeling all the funds into the restoration of luxury trains.

Furthermore, he scoured auctions worldwide for 100-year-old passenger cars, lounge cars, and observation cars, meticulously restoring them. They were transformed into passenger carriages equipped with modern amenities. In 1988, the operational luxury sleeper train was finally completed. This classic train was named "Rovos Rail" after its founder, Rohan Vos.

Even after the train's completion, challenges remained, including negotiations with South African Railways for operational rights and securing funding. The venture ran at a loss from its inception, only turning a profit 20 years later. His resilience in not only restoring the train but also persisting with the business is truly inspiring. Rohan possesses all the qualities essential for a leader: decisiveness, persuasiveness, and perseverance – qualities that rival even Steve Jobs' business acumen. There is much to learn not only from Apple but also from Rovos Rail.

Feature: Aboard Africa's Luxury Sleeper Train (2)

– Carrying Dreams Aboard the Train –

Boarding the Premium Train from Durban at Last

After checking in at the Rovos Rail dedicated counter at Durban Station, a personal butler escorted me to the train. On the platform, the green classic train and Rohan awaited my arrival. After exchanging greetings with him, I boarded the train and was led by the butler to my cabin. I loved that the cabins were named after African animals and birds.

Because the carriages are 100 years old, the track gauge is narrower than the current standard, making the interior of the carriages slightly more compact than those of modern Blue Train services.

Naturally, the suspension differs, so it's slightly less effective at controlling vibrations and sway. But this is precisely the charm. Being able to experience a train journey on a genuine classic train is something truly unique to Rovos Rail worldwide. Aside from the motion, there's the hot water shower, flushing toilet, exquisite cuisine, and butlers trained by the owner himself. In every aspect, Rohan's passion and dedication are palpable.

The train travels through African cities and across the vast African landscape. Simply gazing out at the ever-changing scenery from the window is a joy. Along the way, we passed through impoverished areas, yet people living along the tracks and track maintenance workers alike waved with smiles at the Rovos Rail. Children ran to keep pace with the train.

As I waved back from the observation car, a butler shared this story: "I remember it clearly. The day Rovos Rail first came to my town. I thought, 'Someday, I want to ride that luxury train.' And now, as an adult, I'm the one on Rovos Rail, waving back at the children. Rovos Rail remains a source of pride for the people of South Africa."

The words "PRIDE OF AFRICA" are inscribed on the Rovos Rail carriages. The train runs today, carrying not only Rohan's dream but also the aspirations of many people across Africa.

Rovos Rail offers various routes, from the shortest 2-night, 3-dayコース to a 28-night journey across the African continent. Along the way, you can visit the diamond mines of Kimberley or stop at a private station for a safari. Of course, there are also routes that include a visit to Victoria Falls. With a variety of other activities and experiences, the journey is never dull. What's surprisingly wonderful is the "view from the window." A train journey follows a single track laid across the land. The scenery, from canyons to grain fields and savannas, is truly magnificent and can only be appreciated from the train.

Feature: Aboard Africa's Luxury Sleeper Train (3)

– Carrying Dreams Aboard the Train –

Enjoying the Unique Ambiance of Train Travel, Suited to the Occasion

One of the pleasures of train travel is dining in the dining car. Breakfast and lunch are casual affairs, fostering conversation among fellow passengers. However, the atmosphere transforms completely for dinner, with a "formal" dress code. I, too, dressed up in black tie. The service staff also changed into bow ties. Naturally, other passengers were also elegantly attired.

Such an exciting event is rare in Japan! Especially in today's Japan, where male playfulness seems to be lacking, being able to escort a lady properly in such a setting would surely capture her heart.

Enjoying exquisite cuisine paired with the finest South African wines, even a nightcap in the lounge is exceptional. The social interactions among passengers continue late into the night.

We finally arrive at Pretoria Station, the terminus of this journey and the hub of Rovos Rail. Capital Park Station, formerly a South African Railways freight yard, was purchased and, along with its branch line, was converted into the magnificent dedicated Rovos Rail station. The scene of passengers embarking and disembarking here is like a scene from the movie "Casablanca."

There are many kinds of train journeys around the world. I believe I choose train travel to savor the "charm" that has been lost with the increasing speed of modern transportation. No matter how luxurious, it is still a train. Since one must spend time in a confined space, not everything is comfortable. One would likely sleep more soundly in a hotel bed.

However, is the unique ambiance of train travel a form of nostalgia for those raised in countries like Japan or Europe with well-developed rail networks? The image and experience that continue to captivate so many people, from children to the elderly – that, I believe, is the true essence of train travel.