Serial Essay | #ijichiman's Musings: "Bistro"

Serial Essay | #ijichiman's Musings

Part 39: "Bistro"

When I was younger, I used to wonder, "What exactly is a bistro?" I wasn't unfamiliar with the term, thanks to the TV show "Bistro SMAP," but it wasn't quite a restaurant, nor was it a cafe. Back then, there weren't many such places around town, making it hard to picture what kind of establishment it was. Yet, I sensed it was some kind of chic genre. Perhaps because of that, when someone suggested, "Shall we go to a 'bistro' for dinner?" I'd think they were pretentious and rather unlikeable.

Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake

Serial Essay | #ijichiman's Musings: "Bistro"

Bistro is a French term for a place where one can enjoy casual, common, and home-style dishes with good wine. Of course, what we now call a bistro in Japan often includes Italian or Spanish cuisine, and isn't strictly limited to French food. It carries a nuance similar to a 'taishu sakaba' (popular drinking establishment) in Japan. It's about delicious food, good company, a lively atmosphere, and reasonable prices. However, while a 'taishu sakaba' might be defined by 'depth' or 'sophistication,' a bistro seems to require a certain 'allure'?

While one might go with family or colleagues, would you invite someone to a casual drinking spot on a first date? Yet, a restaurant might feel too formal for a first meeting. Would you try to woo them over coffee? But we're not students anymore. Considering these options, a bistro emerges as the perfect choice. As the couple next to you, who were happily choosing wine, fall into silence by the time their pasta arrives, or as the two who were sitting side-by-side at the counter, enjoying vichyssoise and prosciutto, turn to face each other at a 90-degree angle over duck and red wine – the bistro is a place where the subtle undercurrents of attraction and the hidden depths of the human heart begin to surface.

In the past, bistros were rare, but suddenly they've proliferated. Now, in almost any neighborhood, you can find charming, small eateries tucked away in side streets. However, many of these places seem to prioritize photogenic plating over substance, leading to surprisingly high ratings on review sites. With that in mind, knowing a hidden gem of a bistro or two in a quiet alleyway is something every discerning adult should have up their sleeve.

1. VINO E CUCINA ITALIANA 141, Torimasa Bldg. 3F, Jiyugaoka 2-14-1, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

A rare find in Jiyugaoka, which closes early, this place stays open until 2 AM. Located on the third floor of a building, it's a bit hard to find, and the interior is cozy, always packed, which somehow adds to its charm. You can truly feel the passion behind their curated wine selection and the dishes.

The Cacio e Pepe, a pasta with cheese and pepper, is exceptional. It's so good that you'll be tempted to order other pastas too, often ending up with more than you intended. The fact that it's open until 2 AM in Jiyugaoka is a bonus, but combined with the food, wine, and atmosphere, it's simply a perfect spot.

2. IL BOLLITO, 5 Wakamiyacho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo

Tucked away in a Kagurazaka side street, warm light and the murmur of conversation spill out. This is a restaurant specializing in the rustic cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, a region in northern Italy, which immediately caught my attention. While Italian food is delicious anywhere, Emilia-Romagna, home to Bologna, Parma, and Ferrara, is particularly renowned for its rich culinary heritage. It's known as the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma, and mortadella.

With a focus on meat and cheese, complemented by local wines, every dish on the menu here is enticing. The white pudding made with red cow's milk Parmigiano, generously shaved over the recommended dish, is visually stunning and offers a rich, complex flavor. The horse tartare, pig's trotter, thick-cut beef tongue, tagliatelle with beef bolognese... it's a paradise for wine lovers and hearty eaters.

3. IBAIA, First Bldg. 1F, Ginza 3-12-5, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

A renowned establishment in a Higashi-Ginza backstreet, offering dishes featuring vegetables from their own farm and generous, artfully prepared meat dishes. While the beef cutlet is a popular menu item seen in magazines and on social media, my personal favorites are the deep-fried lamb and the pork offal sausage. The spicy, juicy deep-fried lamb, with hints of cumin and coriander, and the sausage, which falls apart tenderly yet offers a delightful chew, are both novel and exciting discoveries. It's a place that is both rugged and refined, delicate and creative. A warm establishment where you can enjoy not only meat but also plenty of vegetables.

<Paseri: Meguro>

The hallmarks of a good bistro are: delicious, creative, and distinctive cuisine; a well-curated selection of fine wines to match the food; engaging conversation with friendly, lively staff; warm lighting in a dimly lit space; and the subtle hint of unspoken desires between men and women. A bistro is a step into adulthood.

Here, the Caprese salad uses burrata instead of mozzarella, there are dozens of types of cured ham, and you must choose between duck, lamb, or venison rather than just beef, pork, or chicken. You also need to know your own wine preferences, making it impossible for novices to navigate. It's a place that can only be truly enjoyed by adults who have gained experience and acquired a certain allure.

IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he began planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After moving to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and retired at age 30. He joined his representative, a friend of 20 years since middle school, in establishing Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," where he served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual drinking establishments.
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