Interview with Fifth Generation Cellar Master Baptiste Loiseau | LOUIS XIII
LOUNGE / FEATURES
January 4, 2016

Interview with Fifth Generation Cellar Master Baptiste Loiseau | LOUIS XIII


LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin


Interview with Baptiste Loiseau, the 5th Cellar Master


Preserving History and Tradition, Embracing Responsibility: The 5th Cellar Master's Beliefs and Aspirations (Part 1)



“Tasting in Tokyo on a Thursday morning is a first for me, too (laughs).” Baptiste Loiseau says with a gentle smile, his presence gracing the Grand Hyatt Tokyo. He is the Cellar Master for the "King of Cognacs," LOUIS XIII, a brand with an astonishing 141-year history. Last April, at the young age of 34, he was appointed to this crucial role, overseeing the final blending of all cognacs released by the company. We asked the 5th Cellar Master, bearing such a significant responsibility, about the unique character of LOUIS XIII.

Photographs by KOBAYASHI Takashi (ITARU studio)Text by TASHIRO ItaruSpecial thanks to Grand Hyatt Tokyo





The Mystical World of Cognac




LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin



Among the world's many spirits, perhaps none is as mystical as cognac. It can only be produced from grapes harvested in a specific, limited area of France's southwestern Cognac region, and some of the eaux-de-vie (brandy base spirits) used in its blend can be as old as 100 years. Cognac is a distilled spirit where long history and tradition are condensed into its amber liquid.




“Cognac is called the king of spirits. In the Cognac region, know-how regarding production methods is passed down from generation to generation as a matter of course, and my role is tomy predecessorinherit that legacy. Each year, we identify and harvest the finest grapes, distill them to create eaux-de-vie, and age them. Cognac is a spirit that can only be produced in very small plots, yet it is shared with the world and reaches the hands of connoisseurs, transcending the passage of time. That is why it is called the king of spirits.”

While many houses produce cognac, Rémy Martin, one of the oldest, is distinguished by its focus on crus (vineyards). The Cognac region has six crus, but the house exclusively uses grapes from the Grande Champagne, considered the finest due to its soil quality, and Petite Champagne, ranked just below it, to craft all its cognacs.




“I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have been appointed Cellar Master of Rémy Martin, a house founded in 1724. This is because becoming the Cellar Master of Rémy Martin means I must safeguard the quality and quantity of the largest and finest eaux-de-vie in the Cognac region.”

He speaks with a smile, but the weight of this responsibility is likely immeasurable for an ordinary person. Yet, he states with conviction:



LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin

Baptiste Loiseau, 5th Cellar Master





“Indeed, I hold eaux-de-vie distilled over a century ago in my hands, and by blending them now, I complete a cognac that embodies the history built by the house. However, I have my own beliefs and aspirations. My conviction is to convey the charm of the terroirs and the excellence of the aged eaux-de-vie to our partner grape growers, and my aspiration is to pass on this heritage. While there is pressure, I want to fulfill my responsibilities while enjoying the process, rather than being crushed by it.”

After studying oenology at university and working as an engineer to improve the quality of eaux-de-vie at the National Interprofessional Bureau of Cognac (BNIC), he joined Rémy Martin in 2005. From the outset, his talent was recognized by the previous Cellar Master,Pierrette Trichet, under whom he gained experience.

“The work of a Cellar Master cannot be learned as an academic subject. Even before the inauguration ceremony last April, I spent a long time with Pierrette Trichet to fulfill my mission. This means that the role of Cellar Master requires thorough preparation over time. It is only through spending extended periods discussing with the previous Cellar Master and exchanging various ideas while engaging in practical work that one can master the craft. I owe my current ability to speak as Cellar Master to her.”

Page02.LOUIS XIII: Cellar Masters Preserve the Style Through Generations






LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin


Interview with Baptiste Loiseau, the 5th Cellar Master


Preserving History and Tradition, Embracing Responsibility: The 5th Cellar Master's Beliefs and Aspirations (Part 2)





LOUIS XIII: Cellar Masters Preserve the Style Through Generations



For Loiseau, now Cellar Master, the most crucial task is the blending of LOUIS XIII. LOUIS XIII is Rémy Martin's most prestigious cognac, made exclusively from the highest quality grapes harvested in Grande Champagne. It is aged in rare, 100-year-old oak casks known as tierçons. The blend itself comprises eaux-de-vie aged between 40 and 100 years, with the final product resulting from the meticulous blending of over 1200 such spirits. Since its creation in 1874, successive Cellar Masters have maintained its exceptional quality.

“To select the finest eaux-de-vie from nature that are suitable for LOUIS XIII, I taste all the thousands of stored eaux-de-vie to decide on the base spirits for the year's blend. Sometimes, we find only ten or twenty that are worthy of LOUIS XIII. Some might say this is too strict, but LOUIS XIII requires such strictness. Otherwise, the efforts of our predecessors, who poured their hearts into maintaining the brilliance of LOUIS XIII, would be in vain. That is something I must never allow.”

Prompted by Loiseau, I savor the aroma of LOUIS XIII. It is fruity, with nuances of fig and date. The aroma is incredibly concentrated. Then, I take just a few drops into my mouth. Instantly, a floral aroma, like roses, spreads. Shortly after, an exotic world emerges – passion fruit, pineapple…


LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin

LOUIS XIII | Rémy Martin



“It is, after all, the king of cognacs, LOUIS XIII. We engage all our senses, sharpen our intuition, and listen to the king's words, so to speak (laughs). Waves of emotion wash over us, and we resonate with each other, creating a grander world. It is complex, yet everything coexists in perfect harmony. This is the characteristic of eaux-de-vie made from Grande Champagne grapes.

While some base spirits cannot withstand long aging and can become heavy, this cognac, despite its extended maturation, is utterly devoid of heaviness and retains an elegance that can be described as floral. The paradox of being tense yet light, concentrated yet fresh, is found in LOUIS XIII precisely because it uses Grande Champagne base spirits.”


Fulfilling His Duties Today with an Eye on the Future




A glass of LOUIS XIII, embodying the history and tradition built by generations past. Loiseau mentioned that "the connections between people – including my predecessors and the grape growers – are the core of cognac production." By drinking it, one can also connect with those who came before. It is this feeling that makes cognac a mystical, romantic, and uniquely unparalleled spirit.




“In nine years, not only will Rémy Martin celebrate its 300th anniversary, but LOUIS XIII will also reach its 150th milestone. Therefore, I plan to organize and execute many initiatives. As the guardian of the tierçons, I hope to discover special tierçons that express aging differently from others.

If that happens, perhaps I will have the opportunity to introduce them to everyone, just as Pierrette Trichetreleased LOUIS XIII Rare Cask 42.6.However, whether that opportunity will arise is entirely uncertain. Nine years is a remarkably short period in the world of cognac.


327_07

Born in 1874, LOUIS XIII seals a century of time.




Furthermore, most of the eaux-de-vie I distill today will not be blended by my hand. They will become eaux-de-vie for the next generation and the generation after that. Therefore, as Cellar Master, I must continue this legacy without disappointing those who love Rémy Martin cognacs, including LOUIS XIII. The only way I can repay the Rémy Martin company for appointing such a young person like me as Cellar Master is by dedicating myself wholeheartedly to this task.”

300_08

Baptiste Loiseau
Born in 1980 in the Cognac region of France. In 2005, he joined the National Interprofessional Bureau of Cognac (BNIC) as an experimental technician, tasked with improving the quality of cognac base spirits. In 2007, he joined Rémy Martin as a project consultant engineer. Pierrette Trichet, the Cellar Master at the time, recognized his potential early on and appointed him Deputy Cellar Master in 2011. In April 2014, he succeeded her as Cellar Master at the young age of 34.

LOUIS XIII
Suggested Retail Price: ¥250,000 (excluding tax)


327_07

We recommend indulging in this ultimate cognac in the comfortable ambiance of Maduro, the main bar at Grand Hyatt Tokyo, which features private rooms offering the full LOUIS XIII experience. Enjoy the live music performed by professional jazz singers and international artists.




Maduro, Grand Hyatt Tokyo
Opening Hours: 7:00 PM - 1:00 AM (until 2:00 AM on Fridays and Saturdays)
Dress Code: Smart Casual
Address: 4F, Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-4333-8783





Inquiries


Rémy Cointreau Japan


Tel. 03-6441-3025


http://www.louisxiii-cognac.com