LOUNGE /
FEATURES
July 8, 2015
Two Leading French Chefs Present a Dinner Decades in the Making | Diners Club
Diners Club
Two Chefs Leading the French Culinary Scene
Shuzo Kishida × André Chiang: A Collaborative Dinner 15 Years in the Making (1)
In late May, an inspiring event featuring two star chefs took place at Quintessence in Gotenyama. Hosted by Diners Club, it was a collaborative dinner between Chef Shuzo Kishida of Quintessence and Chef André Chiang of Restaurant André in Singapore.
Text by Mackey Makimoto
How Would Two Distinct Styles Create a Culinary Symphony?
Chef André Chiang of Restaurant André (left) and Chef Shuzo Kishida of Quintessence. These old friends, who shared hardships and triumphs at Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France, held their first collaborative dinner in Tokyo after 15 years.
Quintessence has been a highly acclaimed three-Michelin-starred restaurant since 2007. Meanwhile, Restaurant André, opened in 2010, has been recognized by The World's 50 Best Restaurants and attracts diners from around the globe.
"The collaboration with Chef Kishida actually began 15 years ago," said André Chiang, as he greeted the guests. Their meeting dates back to their time training together at Jardin des Sens.
Chef Kishida honed his skills at numerous establishments, including serving as sous chef at Astrance, then a one-Michelin-starred restaurant, after his tenure at Jardin des Sens. André, originally from Taiwan, moved to France at 15 and worked in the kitchens of culinary giants like Pierre Gagnaire and Joël Robuchon. It was at Jardin des Sens in Montpellier that he met Chef Kishida. These young chefs, likely sharing dreams of the future in a foreign land, would go on to become world-renowned culinary masters.
"I've received many proposals for collaborative events with various chefs, but I always declined. However, I felt a desire to collaborate with André Chiang," Chef Kishida shared.
The dinner, held for just two days, received five times the number of applications for the available seats. Despite training under the same mentor and working within French cuisine, the question remained: how would these two chefs, with their vastly different styles, create a memorable dining experience?
Chef Kishida's philosophy centers on the art of 'cuisson' (cooking), meticulously attending to the voice of each ingredient, whether meat or fish. He also shows deep respect for traditional and regional cuisines, while also reinterpreting and modernizing them.
Chef André, on the other hand, has consistently created innovative dishes, incorporating elements of molecular gastronomy. His culinary creations are built upon eight distinct philosophies: ① Pure (enjoying the essence of ingredients without seasoning), ② Salt (the bounty of the sea), ③ Artisan (respect for producers), ④ South (his spiritual home, the warmth and generosity of Southern France), ⑤ Texture (the exquisite interplay of textures), ⑥ Unique (rare ingredients, unusual combinations), ⑦ Memory (timeless dishes), and ⑧ Terroir (gratitude for the earth).
The dinner featured dishes served alternately by each chef. The first course was from André: abalone sashimi atop nori chips, followed by Brittany oysters with Bresse chicken confit. The surprising combination of oyster and chicken made the oyster feel robust, accentuating its natural strength.
Beside it, a small, disc-shaped creation, a deconstructed mojito, rested on a sorrel leaf. Upon tasting, it was unmistakably a mojito, its refreshing quality and intense sweetness flooding the palate, eliciting an involuntary smile. André's artistry was already captivating.
Chef Kishida presented a chilled onion gratin soup made with new onions, gratinated with Parmesan on top. Despite being served cold, it captured the essence of onion soup, its gentle sweetness from the new onions soothing the soul. Accompanying this was a dish of sea urchin couscous, the sea urchin's delicate flavor enhanced by the semolina, creating a light and stimulating bite.
A Shared Reverence for Nature's Bounty
Diners Club
Two Chefs Leading the French Culinary Scene
Shuzo Kishida × André Chiang: A Collaborative Dinner 15 Years in the Making (2)
A Shared Reverence for Nature's Bounty
André's second offering was a crab ravioli wrapped in thinly sliced kohlrabi, served in a shallow dish with a pale green oil and liquid. This, he explained, was oil and water extracted from leeks. Placed nearby was an ice melon. The ravioli, delicately encasing the subtle sweetness of crab, was delightful on its own. However, when dipped into the leek oil and water, the aroma and sweetness of the leeks, infused into the oil and water, resonated with the crab's flavor, making it taste even sweeter than before.
In a small side dish, a soup made from charcoal-grilled corn was served as a frozen, crushed mousse. The concentrated sweetness of the corn brought a smile, while the charred aroma evoked a sense of nostalgia, bringing comfort.
Chef Kishida's second dish was a crêpe parcel filled with duck prosciutto and foie gras, garnished with caramelized nuts and slivers of spring onion and purple sweet potato chips. Inspired perhaps by Peking duck, the first bite into the crêpe released the rich, sweet aroma of foie gras, followed by the savory notes of prosciutto, the fragrance of nuts, and the sweetness of the sweet potato, all harmonizing beautifully. It was a truly delightful creation.
Next came a dish created collaboratively by both chefs. Various vegetables, cooked to perfection by each chef, were arranged on the plate, accompanied by lemon oil, grilled artichoke, lardo marinated in five spices, and dried caviar powder (!). Each combination with the accompanying condiments and garnishes revealed a new facet of the vegetables, making for a dish full of discovery.
André's subsequent dish featured squid, cut into pasta-like strands and sautéed in butter, served over a potato mousse with a seaweed sauce. Crispy wild rice, barley, and oats were sprinkled on top. The contrast in textures was fascinating, and despite a pronounced saltiness, Chef André's signature ingenuity was evident in achieving this flavor solely from the natural salinity of the seaweed and squid, without any added salt.
Following this was Chef Kishida's take on Socca, a traditional chickpea flour pancake from Southern France, modernized. The chef himself admitted he hadn't always found Socca satisfying, so he focused on its core elements while incorporating crab and altering the preparation method to enhance its deliciousness. The result was a dish where the rustic flavor of the beans embraced the alluring essence of crab, creating a deeply satisfying taste.
Then came a dish that truly showcased Chef Kishida's mastery: a perfectly cooked grouper served with a Chartreuse sauce. The fish, cooked to a point where it still seemed alive, exuded a sweet essence, complemented by the herbaceous notes of Chartreuse. It was a sensual creation, brimming with French esprit, a testament to Chef Kishida's dedication.
Next, André presented Bresse pigeon roti (top photo). Accented with black garlic to enhance the pigeon's robust flavor, it was served with various potato chips and a granola of pine nuts and diced potatoes.
Adjacent to it was a signature dish André had created and proposed during his time at Gagnerelle, which was adopted: a foie gras and truffle mousse. The iron notes of the pigeon and the alluring richness of the mousse created a powerful combination, showcasing the chef's unwavering passion and bold approach.
Dessert was by André: pink coriander, red grape, white peach, and raspberry mousse. Chef Kishida offered a rich 1960 Amaretto-infused hazelnut tart, served with milk ice cream.
Following this was André's modern apple tart, featuring apple chips, purée, and fresh apple dice. The meal concluded with Chef Kishida's signature 'Meringue Ice Cream'.
A total of 16 dishes, eight from each chef, plus one collaborative dish, making 17 courses in all. The two chefs' styles could be described as polar opposites: red and white, verbose and taciturn, unique and traditional. Yet, beneath the subtle sparks of contrast lay a deep homage to each other, creating an exhilarating experience that heightened the senses with each course.
Above all, a shared, sincere love for nature's bounty permeated both chefs' creations. This was the culinary passion they had affirmed and nurtured since their youth, and it is this very passion that allows them to work in the same kitchen, undimmed by time, and to move us deeply, profoundly, with their distinct yet resonant dishes.
Shuzo Kishida
Born in Aichi Prefecture in 1974. Began his culinary career at La Mer, within the Shima Kanko Hotel in Mie Prefecture. After working at K.M in Shibuya, Tokyo, he moved to France at age 26, training at several restaurants ranging from brasseries to three-Michelin-starred establishments. Upon returning to Japan, he opened Restaurant Quintessence in 2006. Awarded three Michelin stars in 2007 (a status he maintains), his original cuisine continues to captivate gourmands.
André Chiang
Born in Taiwan in 1976. Moved to Japan at 13, helping his mother at her Chinese restaurant in Kofu, Yamanashi. At 15, he moved to France alone. After training for nine years at Jardin des Sens, he gained experience at establishments including Troisgros, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire (two years), and Astrance (two years), before moving to Singapore. He opened Restaurant André in 2010, quickly gaining recognition as one of Singapore's most acclaimed restaurants.