Miyoshien: Kawasaki
LOUNGE /
FEATURES
July 7, 2023
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "Tobacco, Alcohol, and Delicious Food"
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings
Part 49: "Tobacco, Alcohol, and Delicious Food"
Do you know Yasutaka Tsutsui's short story, "The Last Smoker"? It depicts a world where "health fascism" has run rampant, ostracizing tobacconists, discriminating against, threatening, and lynching smokers, and where the media, police, and even the Self-Defense Forces nationally suppress smokers in a hysterical, witch-hunt-like atmosphere, all from the perspective of the protagonist, who becomes the last smoker on Earth. While it was adapted into a drama for the popular TV show "Tales of the Unusual" in 1995, it was first published over 35 years ago, in 1987.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
I don't know how much of the future (present) he imagined at the time of the story's release, but even if it's not "national oppression," it's undeniable that smokers' social standing has significantly diminished in the Reiwa era. The number of places to smoke in public has decreased, as have restaurants that allow smoking. Previously, traditional kissaten (coffee shops), neighborhood Chinese eateries, local yakiniku joints, and sushi restaurants rooted in their communities were places where one could smoke. However, since the passive smoking law was enacted a few years ago, many establishments have become non-smoking. When I walk around the entertainment districts at night looking for a second place to drink, I often see many establishments advertising that they allow smoking to attract customers. This suggests there's still a considerable demand. That said, even if there are still a fair number of izakayas (excuse me) or bars that advertise smoking, finding a place where you can enjoy delicious food and drinks in a quiet atmosphere while smoking is rare.
It's a common saying that "drinking makes you want to smoke" (though the reverse isn't often heard). Surprisingly, many people who quit smoking years ago still indulge when drinking. I tried to find scientific or objective data and evidence on why tobacco and alcohol pair so well, but there seems to be none. However, the fact that "as you drink more, you smoke more" is undeniable, as indicated by a large number of observations. Delicious food stimulates drinking, drinking stimulates smoking. Delicious food is often high in calories, salt, sugar, and fat. Frankly, it's not good for the body. Adding alcohol and nicotine further increases the physical burden, making it the worst. Yet, delicious food, alcohol, and tobacco can make that moment a relaxing time, a fun time where you can forget your troubles. Mentally, it's the best.
Among smokers, there are those who say, "Any place that allows smoking is fine," but that's certainly not the most important criterion. What matters most is the meal prepared by a dedicated chef who uses carefully selected ingredients and showcases their skills. It's also about the atmosphere: a bright, lively place filled with smiling customers, perhaps engaged in passionate discussions fueled by drinks. These are the most important things, whether smoking is allowed or not. I want to patronize establishments that permit smoking not as a gimmick to attract customers, but out of a genuine desire to allow smokers to enjoy delicious food at their leisure. I want to enjoy a style where I can savor exquisite grilled meat with ice-cold beer, followed by a cigarette. Or perhaps enjoy delicious fish with warm sake, followed by a cigarette. Or, after a meal and drinks, indulge in the pleasure of fine tobacco smoke.
■Nakano: 2F, 31-3 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Nakano, a bar in Shibuya that I've featured before, offers a quiet escape from the city's bustle. Regardless of smoking policies, it's the place to go for delicious fish in Shibuya. From incredibly fresh sashimi platters to grilled fish and their signature pressed mackerel sushi, the seafood is exceptional. But don't overlook the meat; their teriyaki chicken, for instance, is cooked to perfection. They also serve lunch, with options like kaisendon (seafood rice bowl), grilled fish set meals, and ginger pork set meals. While you might occasionally see patrons who, upon finding a smoking-allowed establishment, light up excessively, the clientele here are discerning adults. It's rare to find a place in Shibuya where adults can drink and enjoy excellent fish dishes, but Nakano is one such gem. I almost feel sorry for non-smokers, as this is a place you can confidently take anyone.
Nakano, a bar in Shibuya that I've featured before, offers a quiet escape from the city's bustle. Regardless of smoking policies, it's the place to go for delicious fish in Shibuya. From incredibly fresh sashimi platters to grilled fish and their signature pressed mackerel sushi, the seafood is exceptional. But don't overlook the meat; their teriyaki chicken, for instance, is cooked to perfection. They also serve lunch, with options like kaisendon (seafood rice bowl), grilled fish set meals, and ginger pork set meals. While you might occasionally see patrons who, upon finding a smoking-allowed establishment, light up excessively, the clientele here are discerning adults. It's rare to find a place in Shibuya where adults can drink and enjoy excellent fish dishes, but Nakano is one such gem. I almost feel sorry for non-smokers, as this is a place you can confidently take anyone.
■Shinbashi Kazuju: 2F, Eagle Karasumori Bldg., 3-11-1 Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Shinbashi Kazuju, another establishment I've introduced before, is located on the second floor of a building amidst the eclectic mix of structures in Shimbashi. Its unassuming entrance might be missed by the uninitiated, but it's a quintessential Shimbashi bar, frequented by veterans from advertising agencies and TV stations in the Shimbashi and Shiodome areas. While known for its soft-shelled turtle and fugu dishes, enjoying regular fish as an accompaniment to drinks is also excellent. You'll often see scenes of elderly gentlemen dining in pairs or sophisticated women enjoying their evening. I envision savoring sashimi, picking at simmered dishes, downing some sake, and engaging in lighthearted conversation over a cigarette.
Shinbashi Kazuju, another establishment I've introduced before, is located on the second floor of a building amidst the eclectic mix of structures in Shimbashi. Its unassuming entrance might be missed by the uninitiated, but it's a quintessential Shimbashi bar, frequented by veterans from advertising agencies and TV stations in the Shimbashi and Shiodome areas. While known for its soft-shelled turtle and fugu dishes, enjoying regular fish as an accompaniment to drinks is also excellent. You'll often see scenes of elderly gentlemen dining in pairs or sophisticated women enjoying their evening. I envision savoring sashimi, picking at simmered dishes, downing some sake, and engaging in lighthearted conversation over a cigarette.
■Yakiniku Yamada: 2-2-8 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Located more in Okachimachi or Ueno-Hirokoji than Ueno proper, this area is a hub for yakiniku restaurants, many of which stay open late into the night, or rather, early morning. This particular establishment opens at 5:00 PM and closes at 5:00 AM, a testament to its dedication. Happy hour runs until 9:00 PM. The fact that it's always bustling and full is a testament to the consistently delicious and reliable quality of the meat. My personal theory is that if a place excels at offal sashimi like senmai and kobukuro, their other meat dishes are also excellent, and this place proves it. The majority of the customers are men. In the smoky interior, they grill all sorts of meat, wash it down with beer, chuhai, and highballs. This is the classic yakiniku experience. Be prepared to immediately discard your clothes upon returning home, toss them straight into the washing machine, and take a quick shower – all with the understanding that you'll fully enjoy the smoke.
Located more in Okachimachi or Ueno-Hirokoji than Ueno proper, this area is a hub for yakiniku restaurants, many of which stay open late into the night, or rather, early morning. This particular establishment opens at 5:00 PM and closes at 5:00 AM, a testament to its dedication. Happy hour runs until 9:00 PM. The fact that it's always bustling and full is a testament to the consistently delicious and reliable quality of the meat. My personal theory is that if a place excels at offal sashimi like senmai and kobukuro, their other meat dishes are also excellent, and this place proves it. The majority of the customers are men. In the smoky interior, they grill all sorts of meat, wash it down with beer, chuhai, and highballs. This is the classic yakiniku experience. Be prepared to immediately discard your clothes upon returning home, toss them straight into the washing machine, and take a quick shower – all with the understanding that you'll fully enjoy the smoke.
IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner before leaving at age 30. He co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," with a friend from junior high school, and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and local bars.
Instagram:ijichiman
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While at Keio University, he was involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner before leaving at age 30. He co-founded Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," with a friend from junior high school, and served as Vice President until September 2020. He currently supports corporate communications and branding for clients across various industries while continuing his urban explorations. His favorite foods are fugu and soft-shelled turtle. His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and local bars.
Instagram:ijichiman